Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

More documents

Recommendations

Info

Seat Electricals: Interior: Seats, Etc. FAQ Home Volvo Maintenance FAQ for 7xx/9xx/90 Cars Version 7.5 Seat Electricals: Seat Heater Functional Diagnosis Seat Heaters Over-Heat Seat Heater Switches Power Seat Diagnostic Trouble Codes Power Seat Motor Failure Power Seat Switch Cluster Removal and Repair Power Seat Switch Repair Seat Mechanicals: Seats Interchangeable? Squeak in Wagon Seats Seat Removal Seat Tracks Seat Back Removal Lumbar Support Repair Front Seat Bottom Foam Replacement Seat Pocket Mount Repair More Headroom Via Lower Seat Cushion Headrest Removal Seat Covers: Vinyl Repair Leather Seat Repair Seat Cover Sources Seat Map Pocket Repair Upgrade: Third Seat Installation Installing Power Seats in a Manual Seat Car Seat Heater Functional Diagnosis. Basic Troublsehooting: How to troubleshoot the seat heaters: 1. Are fuses good? 2. Check seat heater switches to ensure they are good and the lamps light up. Contacts may require cleaning, since they are in an area that accumulates dirt and debris. 3. If your car has leather seats, it will have a relay. Cars with cloth seats (probably only GL and base models) may lack a relay and have the thermostat direct in line with the heater elements. The relay may have come loose, or it may suffer from internal solder breaks. Remove, re-solder, and reinstall. 4. Remove seat cover and trace continuity on seat heater harness. Sometimes the connectors to the thermostat break, sometimes the wires to the element break right at the edge of the element. There are often breaks in the harness that develop over the years. It seems to be much more common to have a problem with the wiring than with the thermostat. I've found the connection often becomes loose right at the thermostat--I actually resorted to soldering one thermostat in place-no more problems! Repair breaks with soldering. Simple way to test the thermostat is to check continuity after placing the 'stat in the refrigerator for awhile. 5. If Steps 3 or 4 show the seat heater to be ready for retirement, replace with a new seat heater. Cost will be around $100. Repeat process whenever seat heater malfunctions, or every five years, whichever comes first. (Seat heaters commonly start to fail around the five-year mark).
Connectors: [Response: ] My seat heater didn't work, so I decided to remove the cover (by removing the side clips from the seat) to the bottom section of the seat (the part you sit on). While inspecting the warmer unit, I noticed that one of the connectors attached to the thermostat (mounted in the middle of the heater unit) had come loose. I have since heard from others that this is a fairly common problem among Volvo seat heaters. After reattaching the connector (and making the connection more permanent) the seat toasted my bum like a charm. [Note: your seat may not have this thermostat, which is used only on normal-output seats. High-output have integral relay-thermostats.] [Response:] Seldom is a non operational seat heater due to a broken element. 90% of the time it is a break at the spade connectors at the stress point near the thermostat. The thermo itself may fail or you may have no voltage to the connector under the seat. Test for continuity with a meter through the under-seat connector when ambient temperature is below 50 deg F with seat heater switch off or under seat connector unplugged. Seat heater thermo is accessible with seat installed. It is pretty obvious how to replace the thermo. If you disconnect the thermo you can use the ohmeter to check the continuity through the back cushion. Relays: The seat heater relay/thermostats are under each seat, and can be unclipped from the spring wires and removed. The usual relay-death syndrome, i.e. broken solder joints, is the culprit. Just re-flow the solder and your bum will heat up once again... Note that relays can differ by model year and by seat style (leather or cloth). Removing the Cover to Access the In-Line Thermostat and Seat Heaters: If you move the seat fully forward and incline the back to its most upright position you can see how the upholstery is attached for the bottom cover. It's simply a spring loaded bar. Pull it out of the two side attaching holes. Recline the seat fully back and then pull the detached end through the fold between the seat back and bottom, then gently pull it over the bottom to reveal the seat heater webbing. Slide the webbing out gently and you will see the thermostat, a conical spring-like device. For the seat back heater, you must use a heavy wire cutter on the wire clips that hold the upholstery in order to access the back heater web, otherwise removal is similar. I used heavy-duty plastic wire ties to replace the cut wire clips to refasten the seatback upholstery. Installation is the reverse of above. The only difficult part of the operation is getting that spring loaded bar back into the attaching holes under the seat. For more detail, see the seat foam replacement section. Seat Heaters Over-Heat. [Inquiry:] I have a problem with my driver’s side heated seat. Last winter it basically cooked my ass. It got so hot that I had to pull over and get out the car and then get it shut off with the switch. If I turn it on it comes up to temperature immediately almost and it gets super hot. Its almost like the element is right at the leather on the bottom seat. Now the thing doesn't work at all and I'm not sure how to proceed. The switch lights up and appears to be allright. I guess its either a bad thermostat or element. I'm not sure where any of these parts are located. [Response 1:] had the same thing too. The problem (in my case, anyway) is the relays. They are under each seat, and can be unclipped and removed. The usual relay-death-syndrome, i.e. broken solder joints, is the culprit. Just re-flow the solder and your bum will heat up once again. [Response 2:] It could be that the relay or the thermostat that controls them has a problem. Seat Heater Switches. Dirty Contacts. Examined the switches for the electric seat heaters. Both sides had stopped working within the past year, and I had assumed the seat wires had failed. Surprise! Neither switch functioned; the contacts were dirty. It's a bugger to get the switch apart, but it's a simple hi-amp contact that's easy to clean. This is probably a common failure mode. Lamps Burned Out. [DaveM] The bulb in the switch is part of the circuit when the switch is activated. It completes the circuit and whilst lit also allows power to the heater pads. Therefore, no light? No heated seat. A trip to the Scrappies soon put it right: change the switch. Seat Heater Switch Removal. [Inquiry:] Any advice on how to remove the seat-warmer switches? The little orange "heateron" indicator light is burned out, and I need to get at the switch for the purpose of replacing the indicator bulb. {Response: JohnB] On my 90 they're just clipped into the center console. I remove the screws under the parking brake handle and up comes the center panel and a bunch of wire harnesses. Carefully pop the harness connector off the switch and pop the switch out for replacement or repair. Power Seat Diagnostic Trouble Codes. [Editor] The power seat system incorporates an On-Board Diagnostic subsystem used for fault tracing and repair. Diagnostic Trouble Mode (DTM) 1 is used to read stored fault codes. DTM 4 is used to calibrate the seat if control modules, motors, potentiometers, drive cables or other components are removed. The OBD systems vary by model and model year: in 740 and many 940 cars, they require a cable connection between the seat connector and the OBD Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) box in the engine compartment above the left wheel well. 960 and 1994-95 940 cars can read the codes directly by inserting the OBD selector pigtail into DLC box "B" position 6. Press the button in box "A" once to select DTM 1 and read out the codes. Erase codes by pressing the button for at least five seconds,
Page 1 and 2:
Volvo Maintenance FAQ for 7xx/9xx/9
Page 3 and 4:
Electrical: Instruments Electrical:
Page 5 and 6:
Buying a Used 7xx/9xx FAQ Home Volv
Page 7 and 8:
Model Tips: Buying a Used 740: Chec
Page 9 and 10:
have 25 bolts and two gaskets) and
Page 11 and 12:
1995 New construction on the camsha
Page 13 and 14:
[Response] My 850 was an absolute l
Page 15 and 16:
Driving Styles. Rule One is slow do
Page 17 and 18:
❍ Brake fluid - thoroughly flush
Page 19 and 20:
unit (VR/BU) for wear while the alt
Page 21 and 22:
the hood and instantly know when so
Page 23 and 24:
couple bags of dessicant and put th
Page 25 and 26:
Engine Tune and Performance; Sympto
Page 27 and 28:
Misfire and Broken Distributor Wire
Page 29 and 30:
Car Won't Start: Neutral A/T Safety
Page 31 and 32:
Symptoms and Why You Should Regular
Page 33 and 34:
pour solvent in to soak. The intern
Page 35 and 36:
screw 1/2 turn then lock it down wi
Page 37 and 38:
BMW TSB for removing carbon deposit
Page 39 and 40:
Start or Stall Problems: No Start;
Page 41 and 42:
Basic Ignition and Fuel Injection C
Page 43 and 44:
Sensor. [Inquiry:] Sometimes the
Page 45 and 46:
the firewall had failed. This allow
Page 47 and 48:
Mixture, Misfire or Idle Control Pr
Page 49 and 50:
and sends tons more fuel to the eng
Page 51 and 52:
also noticed a bare temp-sending wi
Page 53 and 54:
● ● ● ● ● will understand
Page 55 and 56:
OVER 1.8V each time a vane passes H
Page 57 and 58:
sometimes sticks. Also the idle spe
Page 59 and 60:
● Engine will not run at idle ●
Page 61 and 62:
Retarded Timing or Knock Sensor Cod
Page 63 and 64:
Slight Backfiring While Coasting; T
Page 65 and 66:
[Response: Lincoln] I would check y
Page 67 and 68:
Power stage at fender Knock sensor
Page 69 and 70:
elay is cutting out. Behind the ash
Page 71 and 72:
problems recently--the car won't st
Page 73 and 74:
(like, say, at a stop light.) This
Page 75 and 76:
of the regulator vacuum line, there
Page 77 and 78:
splice in your own repairs, but for
Page 79 and 80:
Jeremy] Symptoms in my turbo were c
Page 81 and 82:
temperatures and reduce NOX formati
Page 83 and 84:
ad (low pressure) regulator on fuel
Page 85 and 86:
Abbreviations: or Won't Turn AMM Ai
Page 87 and 88:
4. [Editor] Insert a small amount o
Page 89 and 90:
After fully warmed up and running t
Page 91 and 92:
is system voltage registered at bot
Page 93 and 94:
constant hammering. This is akin to
Page 95 and 96:
How to Replace Center Shaft Seal: S
Page 97 and 98:
where it sticks onto shaft. This ef
Page 99 and 100:
properly. See other timing tips in
Page 101 and 102:
● Disconnect the negative battery
Page 103 and 104:
Electrical: Engine Sensors FAQ Home
Page 105 and 106:
Diagnosing ECT Failures. [Response:
Page 107 and 108:
Symptoms of Failure: High idle at s
Page 109 and 110:
computer receives a rich signal (hi
Page 111 and 112:
When is Replacement Recommended? [T
Page 113 and 114:
eliminate the faulty signal. Crank
Page 115 and 116:
firewall. [DanR] To get the connect
Page 117 and 118:
checks below. If all other tests ch
Page 119 and 120:
diaphragm and valve, or follow the
Page 121 and 122:
● -20°C (4°F) 15K ohms ● 20°
Page 123 and 124:
ECT Engine Coolant Temperature sens
Page 125 and 126:
1. Check for air leaks by spraying
Page 127 and 128:
Fuel Injectors: Injector Cleaning.
Page 129 and 130:
Removing the Injectors. [Tip from N
Page 131 and 132:
Off the Car Diagnosis. You can remo
Page 133 and 134:
Repair of Air Intake Hose. [Editor]
Page 135 and 136:
Idle Air Control Valve. See the FAQ
Page 137 and 138:
Test 1. If you suspect that your ra
Page 139 and 140:
● clean off sensor connector, rem
Page 141 and 142:
joint will be very tight. 3. Gently
Page 143 and 144:
Caliper Guide Pins: Maintenance Cal
Page 145 and 146:
REPCO 508 rep_508.gif (3906 bytes)
Page 147 and 148:
740 740 740 740 740 760 760 88- 90
Page 149 and 150:
[Cars with Girling Single-Piston Ca
Page 151 and 152:
A pressure bleeder works by pushing
Page 153 and 154:
ake pad. The friction material that
Page 155 and 156:
much trouble. ● The spring pad re
Page 157 and 158:
Brake Pad Anti-Squeal: Pastes and S
Page 159 and 160:
made in a less controlled environme
Page 161 and 162:
Wheel Torque and Warped Rotors. Vol
Page 163 and 164:
Seized . [Report: Don Willson] Puls
Page 165 and 166:
press the brake pedal to the floor
Page 167 and 168:
Cable Replacement: Replacing One Si
Page 169 and 170:
Master Cylinder: Don't Ruin Your Ma
Page 171 and 172:
You first unscrew the male fitting
Page 173 and 174:
(either ISO or double flare) into t
Page 175 and 176:
un-out is above spec, the solution
Page 177 and 178:
● Never lean on the reservoir or
Page 179 and 180:
The Jumbo caliper brakes do provide
Page 181 and 182:
Brakes: ABS FAQ Home Volvo Maintena
Page 183 and 184:
Anti-Lock Brake System Service Prec
Page 185 and 186:
1992+ Cars With Underhood Diagnosti
Page 187 and 188:
All anti-lock brake systems control
Page 189 and 190:
pushing up and twisting the bottom
Page 191 and 192:
speedometer fails! Play around with
Page 193 and 194:
and will need replacement if that i
Page 195 and 196:
Volvo Radiator Destructive Test Rad
Page 197 and 198:
the coolant drain is at the end of
Page 199 and 200:
Which Thermostat? [Editor/Bob] Whil
Page 201 and 202:
place radiator back in place proper
Page 203 and 204:
intake manifold, and push the hose
Page 205 and 206:
wool. A mirror and bright light hel
Page 207 and 208:
failure. BUT it's a b*tch to remove
Page 209 and 210:
Emergency Radiator Repair. [Tip fro
Page 211 and 212:
Coolant Reservoir Replacement . [Ti
Page 213 and 214:
link. ● Heater hose fractured due
Page 215 and 216:
the level float rattling, then it h
Page 217 and 218:
c) Remove the float and install it
Page 219 and 220:
what this lamp looks like and what
Page 221 and 222:
the voltage reading drops to zero,
Page 223 and 224:
Electric Cooling Fan Operation. Ele
Page 225 and 226:
Selection: I bought a Mr. Gasket hi
Page 227 and 228:
leed the clutch and brakes. Test sp
Page 229 and 230:
Note: For further information about
Page 231 and 232:
in the engine compartment with a re
Page 233 and 234:
❍ Install the cable into socket 2
Page 235 and 236:
2-1-4 Not applicable NA NA 2-2-1* 2
Page 237 and 238:
4-1-3* 3-3-4 EGR temperature sensor
Page 239 and 240:
the positive battery terminal. § T
Page 241 and 242:
M a Engine: FI and Ignition Compute
Page 243 and 244:
each number discussed. The bad ones
Page 245 and 246:
I have been able to test the self-b
Page 247 and 248:
unit, take that into consideration.
Page 249 and 250:
Turbo Loses Performance under Boost
Page 251 and 252:
from filter 2 compressed air to int
Page 253 and 254:
those failures that could be avoide
Page 255 and 256:
spring design (spring in compressio
Page 257 and 258:
2. Coolant Heat Exchanger by Oil Fi
Page 259 and 260:
making boost. I could then hear a l
Page 261 and 262:
kit and there's a direct oil feed l
Page 263 and 264:
the engine, you blow black smoke/ov
Page 265 and 266:
problem to be an oil LEAK, front or
Page 267 and 268:
adaptor on the engine. Once off, th
Page 269 and 270:
position. (Probably want to practic
Page 271 and 272:
Turbo Hoses: Preventive Maintenance
Page 273 and 274:
coolant lines at the radiator using
Page 275 and 276:
Removing the Exhaust Manifold Brace
Page 277 and 278:
out the exhaust. I have been told t
Page 279 and 280:
the IPD kit and if an ordinary mort
Page 281 and 282:
high mileage unit and face this pro
Page 283 and 284:
Engine: V-6 FAQ Home Volvo Maintena
Page 285 and 286:
number of turns you so determine. I
Page 287 and 288:
If there are any problems the LED w
Page 289 and 290:
Engine: Diesel FAQ Home Volvo Maint
Page 291 and 292:
Synthetic Highly Recommended. [Warr
Page 293 and 294:
superb detergent injector cleaner,
Page 295 and 296:
fact that you could blow the motor
Page 297 and 298:
e. Sometimes a leak can develop in
Page 299 and 300:
Diesel Compression Test. [Inquiry:]
Page 301 and 302:
Now take the whole assembly to a di
Page 303 and 304:
Solenoid. [Noel DeSouza] To repair
Page 305 and 306:
another brand unless you are in a p
Page 307 and 308:
happen at my oil change shop over a
Page 309 and 310:
● The power steering rack and rub
Page 311 and 312:
pump cavities you will probably exp
Page 313 and 314:
Clean pan and gasket leftovers. You
Page 315 and 316:
Engine: Mechanical FAQ Home Volvo M
Page 317 and 318:
Driver's side 1. Remove the top nut
Page 319 and 320:
tube rearwards until there was enou
Page 321 and 322:
Spark Plug Installation. Tips and C
Page 323 and 324:
B23X Engines. Clean off the area ar
Page 325 and 326:
to happen, then consider pulling th
Page 327 and 328:
quality fasteners. 2. Thread Hole Q
Page 329 and 330:
● There is a whole buch of stuff
Page 331 and 332:
just pulled the small hose from the
Page 333 and 334:
3. Timing order is 1-3-4-2. Number
Page 335 and 336:
shims held in the valve depressor.
Page 337 and 338:
separate -- and you're pulling the
Page 339 and 340:
the block or the cylinder wall. Rem
Page 341 and 342:
[Editor:] When you install a new sp
Page 343 and 344:
Engine Mounted in Support Stand. [Q
Page 345 and 346:
B234 Seals: Counterhold Tool Abbrev
Page 347 and 348:
tension on the belt. Take off the o
Page 349 and 350:
Changing Timing Belt: Procedures fo
Page 351 and 352:
to be "timed".) Install the lower c
Page 353 and 354:
Holding the outer section of B230 c
Page 355 and 356:
the rope and jam the piston. Tighte
Page 357 and 358:
[Editor] Once you find them, use "W
Page 359 and 360:
Do I Wrap the Belt First Over the C
Page 361 and 362:
you have blowby, you need to check
Page 363 and 364:
yourself. Start by removing the ele
Page 365 and 366:
otate the engine once, those paint
Page 367 and 368:
friendly Volvo parts dealer if he c
Page 369 and 370:
Crankcase Ventilation: A Treatise.
Page 371 and 372:
hose is plugged solid. It's easier
Page 373 and 374:
Oil cap modification for vacuum tes
Page 375 and 376:
can be removed and replaced. It can
Page 377 and 378:
If Your Car Has an EGR (Exhaust Gas
Page 379 and 380:
carwash to cover the engine with cl
Page 381 and 382:
[Another:] If you install the seal
Page 383 and 384:
anyone can successfully install the
Page 385 and 386:
the 92mm crankshaft. Insert this af
Page 387 and 388:
housings that stop you from pushing
Page 389 and 390:
Fuel System: Pumps, Relays FAQ Home
Page 391 and 392:
loosen and push out the filter. Whe
Page 393 and 394:
Now turn the ignition ON (without t
Page 395 and 396:
These may include hard starting, in
Page 397 and 398:
Fuel Sender and In-Tank Pump Replac
Page 399 and 400:
way. The gasket will stretch around
Page 401 and 402:
This required soldering. Nothing se
Page 403 and 404:
in the fuel tank yet!!). Reconnect
Page 405 and 406:
pump operating without a pre-pump (
Page 407 and 408:
lean mixture at idle). Sometimes, t
Page 409 and 410:
Noisy Fuel Pump: FPR Faulty. [Tip f
Page 411 and 412:
the car accelerated back to the set
Page 413 and 414:
2-1-2 Malfunction in the circuit to
Page 415 and 416:
the turn signal. Sometimes it is ea
Page 417 and 418:
Jump-Starting Procedures. When jump
Page 419 and 420:
Troubleshooting the Starter In the
Page 421 and 422:
polyurethane, which are more robust
Page 423 and 424:
2) voltage regulator, then 3) alter
Page 425 and 426:
pull the pigtail through. Once I pu
Page 427 and 428:
have a digital voltmeter with Min/M
Page 429 and 430:
Reconnect the battery to the car an
Page 431 and 432:
attery temp changed. The voltage ne
Page 433 and 434:
have some knowledge about batteries
Page 435 and 436:
Transmission:Automatic AW 70 & ZF S
Page 437 and 438:
● The engine must be on. ● Star
Page 439 and 440:
it on); 1/2 inch I.D. will require
Page 441 and 442:
Fluid Drain. [Procedure:] ZF 4HP22
Page 443 and 444:
the pan and its bolts. 3. Remove th
Page 445 and 446:
throttle spindle. To adjust, loosen
Page 447 and 448:
get it right front to front...it ca
Page 449 and 450:
1. Remove the center console betwee
Page 451 and 452:
transmission. One attachment place
Page 453 and 454:
Shift Indicator Lamp Replacement. S
Page 455 and 456:
[Note from Abe Crombie] The 93 thro
Page 457 and 458:
8. Remove all 6 bolts holding rear
Page 459 and 460:
transmission from consuming the gas
Page 461 and 462:
will cause the various hydraulic ac
Page 463 and 464:
contact cleaner, allowed it to dry,
Page 465 and 466:
You can also pull the solenoid enti
Page 467 and 468:
AW7X Diagnostic Notes. Governor Pre
Page 469 and 470:
the conversion. Remember that the c
Page 471 and 472:
words, alignment on reinstallation
Page 473 and 474:
Page 475 and 476:
Maintenance: See the Automatic Tran
Page 477 and 478:
measure…note the position on the
Page 479 and 480:
to see, use a flashlight. Remove tw
Page 481 and 482:
the stall speed of torque converter
Page 483 and 484:
Mine gave out at 48,000 miles. When
Page 485 and 486:
the transmission cross member 12. P
Page 487 and 488:
for OBD-I (pre-1996) 960 cars. 1. O
Page 489 and 490:
3-1- 3 3-2- 1 3-2- 2 3-2- 3 3-3- 1
Page 491 and 492:
Dexron. It takes about 2.4 quarts i
Page 493 and 494:
Now shifts easily every time. The o
Page 495 and 496:
(55), and the cone clutch (43) is i
Page 497 and 498:
Further O/D Functional Notes. [Abe
Page 499 and 500:
around 15 mph and with good actuati
Page 501 and 502:
drive a block and see if it leaking
Page 503 and 504:
for a used M47 instead. Just a few
Page 505 and 506:
change the height of the pedal dise
Page 507 and 508:
don't hot rod. Any thoughts on this
Page 509 and 510:
Overdrive Rebuild: M- 46 FAQ Home V
Page 511 and 512:
I used a "Martin" adjustable spanne
Page 513 and 514:
direction as you look at the rear o
Page 515 and 516:
Position cam follower on OD unit in
Page 517 and 518:
44 Thrust Bearing Housing 1 45 NA 4
Page 519 and 520:
series. Be sure to clean all of the
Page 521 and 522:
Driveshaft, Driveline, Rear Axle FA
Page 523 and 524:
Identifying Leaks. [Tip: Editor] I
Page 525 and 526:
sarcasm. I too, have this very same
Page 527 and 528:
Other Parts to Examine. [John Orrel
Page 529 and 530:
earmost U-joint will be extremely "
Page 531 and 532:
would also mark the yoke arms as we
Page 533 and 534:
at assembly. Remove the pinion flan
Page 535 and 536:
out with the nuts tapered side out
Page 537 and 538:
is marked 1065 it's an ALD. ALL cro
Page 539 and 540:
incompatible.That was my experience
Page 541 and 542:
1990 740 Turbo B230FT AW70L/AW71 3.
Page 543 and 544:
Rear Suspension: FAQ Home Volvo Mai
Page 545 and 546:
1. Chock the front wheels. 2. Loose
Page 547 and 548:
How Shock Absorbers Fail. How do sh
Page 549 and 550:
control arm without unbolting it. U
Page 551 and 552:
Wheels and Tires: FAQ Home Volvo Ma
Page 553 and 554:
Brake pulls from the rear can be di
Page 555 and 556:
on the back. This also improved the
Page 557 and 558:
Torque Specs on Alloy & Steel Wheel
Page 559 and 560:
Alloy Wheels: Damage and Leaks Dama
Page 561 and 562:
do powder coating for a very reason
Page 563 and 564:
Exhaust Sensors: Oxygen Sensor Repl
Page 565 and 566:
egulator and leaking pressure regul
Page 567 and 568:
ut it can be done, and quickly. On
Page 569 and 570:
passing emissions dicey in some sta
Page 571 and 572:
Removing Broken Studs Using Tools.
Page 573 and 574:
● Make sure top of stud is flat o
Page 575 and 576:
turbo/tube and tube/block gasket an
Page 577 and 578:
Stock or Performance Exhaust System
Page 579 and 580:
they go into the new holes & you ha
Page 581 and 582:
3.Fender Guard Joints. [Chris Herbs
Page 583 and 584:
To avoid: appears not to give off a
Page 585 and 586:
Door Operation and Troubleshooting:
Page 587 and 588:
door fails to lock, then the timer
Page 589 and 590:
Has anyone replaced it? [Response:
Page 591 and 592:
[Response: DanR/Colin Shepherd] I w
Page 593 and 594:
equires a removal of the entire pan
Page 595 and 596:
1. Unscrew the door lock stem. 2. E
Page 597 and 598:
this strip is actually exposed from
Page 599 and 600:
Hood Hinge Lubrication. Make sure y
Page 601 and 602:
atteries are OK. I do not use the r
Page 603 and 604:
Body Glass, Mirrors, Moldings, Wate
Page 605 and 606:
Window Motor Slow. [Symptom:] My 95
Page 607 and 608:
Power Window Motor Removal. Diagnos
Page 609 and 610:
Replacing Windshield Glass. Removin
Page 611 and 612: the windshield no longer securely b
Page 613 and 614: use a flashlight to locate the clip
Page 615 and 616: is a path for electrical current to
Page 617 and 618: connection somewhere. Check for vol
Page 620 and 621: Body: Sunroof FAQ Home Volvo Mainte
Page 622 and 623: [Response: Kerry] (Applies to 1986
Page 624 and 625: elow the roof line, while the leadi
Page 626 and 627: Sunroof Wind Flap. Adjustment of He
Page 628 and 629: it firmly. This will help make sure
Page 630 and 631: Sunroof Overhaul. [Tips from Ken Di
Page 632 and 633: and the roof would close after a fe
Page 634 and 635: move the microswitch plungers out o
Page 636 and 637: power supply, preferably the fuse w
Page 638 and 639: Body & Engine- Accessories FAQ Home
Page 640 and 641: Third Seat Installation for an illu
Page 642 and 643: Trailer Hitch. [Inquiry:] I am cons
Page 644 and 645: as always when dealing with plastic
Page 646 and 647: electronic speedo/odo pickup on the
Page 648 and 649: Cupholders. Volvo OEM Cupholders. [
Page 650 and 651: wait a day before I unclamp it or m
Page 652 and 653: those look different (i.e. the anod
Page 654 and 655: Body Care, Paint, Waxes Etc. FAQ Ho
Page 656 and 657: Chip Repair Buffing. The Langka pro
Page 658 and 659: you've got a dent, you'd be working
Page 660 and 661: Promoter can. And make sure you don
Page 664 and 665: wait until the LEDs light up, then
Page 666 and 667: square) extends past the track on t
Page 668 and 669: and I doubt you can buy that piece
Page 670 and 671: deal with. There is also a bigger m
Page 672 and 673: pry outwards gently on the sides an
Page 674 and 675: pocket and the length of the bushin
Page 676 and 677: spectacular. The total cost for all
Page 678 and 679: panel firmly and pull out and left
Page 680 and 681: as you buy the car. Keep thy dash c
Page 682 and 683: Headliner replacement for sedans or
Page 684 and 685: more patience. My first board was b
Page 686 and 687: Storage Tray Under Radio. To remove
Page 688 and 689: generally an overlapping system, wi
Page 690 and 691: Removing/Repairing Tailgate Panel.
Page 692 and 693: Removing Rear Floor Panels for Acce
Page 694 and 695: for all new carpet. http://www.sale
Page 696 and 697: Radio Code Lost. [Problem: Lost rad
Page 698 and 699: 960 96 Radio Bulbs Burned Out [Tip]
Page 700 and 701: cart, you can click on them to see
Page 702 and 703: just put it into the dash with the
Page 704 and 705: grease prevents proper grip on the
Page 706 and 707: the hole will do the trick. Avoid t
Page 708 and 709: Warning Lights Flickering: Bad Alte
Page 710 and 711: Difficulties? This bezel can be tou
Page 712 and 713:
trim. To access the bulb, gently pr
Page 714 and 715:
Courtesy of Jurgen Winkelvoss] [Tip
Page 716 and 717:
Gauges or Warning Lights Stop Worki
Page 718 and 719:
1993 + tank: right side of pointer
Page 720 and 721:
the 3 screws that hold the gauge in
Page 722 and 723:
jump back up to the correct speed,
Page 724 and 725:
gauge cluster from the car and brou
Page 726 and 727:
See also ABS Lamp Lights After Star
Page 728 and 729:
Electrical: SRS Air Bag & Seatbelts
Page 730 and 731:
2-2-1 Passenger module, short circu
Page 732 and 733:
Chrome steel rod. Insert the rod do
Page 734 and 735:
Electrical Diagnostic Supplies. [Ed
Page 736 and 737:
740-940 Fuse Panel Location 960 Fus
Page 738 and 739:
ad crimp jointin the base bad relay
Page 740 and 741:
Relay Tray Removal and Replacement.
Page 742 and 743:
failure in our 87 745T was caused b
Page 744 and 745:
your local shop, or the cost of bur
Page 746 and 747:
Clip the zip holding the two large
Page 748 and 749:
will happen. If the problem really
Page 750 and 751:
my Mercedes (the switch design is v
Page 752 and 753:
Electrical: Lighting, Horns FAQ Hom
Page 754 and 755:
Headlamps: How to Replace Headlamp
Page 756 and 757:
with WD-40 and then drip/spray some
Page 758 and 759:
low beam is set, the high beam shou
Page 760 and 761:
Headlamp Capsule Loose. [Inquiry] I
Page 762 and 763:
Parking Lamp Capsule Removal. 740/9
Page 764 and 765:
there is heavy dirt in there, find
Page 766 and 767:
4. With files and the Dremel tool,
Page 768 and 769:
causes the raised plastic nipple in
Page 770 and 771:
integral assembly combining the 3 b
Page 772 and 773:
too strong. By contrast, the right
Page 774 and 775:
down, limiting the effectiveness of
Page 776 and 777:
Bulb Descriptions and Ratings: [ref
Page 778 and 779:
Electrical: Wipers FAQ Home Wipers:
Page 780 and 781:
finally came loose. After my operat
Page 782 and 783:
position. ● Now you can attach th
Page 784 and 785:
learn't the hard way never to tuck
Page 786 and 787:
order to get the old one out. Seems
Page 788 and 789:
Heating and Air Conditioning FAQ Ho
Page 790 and 791:
Vacuum Check Valve Failures. [Inqui
Page 792 and 793:
console against the firewall inside
Page 794 and 795:
Repair or Replace? If your motor is
Page 796 and 797:
88 w/ air conditioning blower motor
Page 798 and 799:
uns right off the windshield and in
Page 800 and 801:
illustrated instructions at its web
Page 802 and 803:
vary other factors, the FOT (fixed
Page 804 and 805:
aluminum pipe where it connects to
Page 806 and 807:
700/900 92 B204/234/ Diesel R12 105
Page 808 and 809:
● ● ● ● ● ● compressor
Page 810 and 811:
test for you, skip all of this and
Page 812 and 813:
● ● Hoses leaking throughout th
Page 814 and 815:
ecause moisture may damage the drie
Page 816 and 817:
place. The evap drain extension is
Page 818 and 819:
diagnosed with an A/C gauge set. Po
Page 820 and 821:
at the local import auto parts stor
Page 822 and 823:
Mold Odor from A/C System. [Tip fro
Page 824 and 825:
door (US/Canada models) the end of
Page 826 and 827:
soldering. [Response: Brian Oliver]
Page 828 and 829:
eading. Location of Ambient Tempera
Page 830 and 831:
Blower Motor: 2-3-3 Starting curren
Page 832 and 833:
hose = floor) and has a boot on the
Page 834 and 835:
Steering: FAQ Home Volvo Maintenanc
Page 836 and 837:
- Power Steering Racks The Cam gear
Page 838 and 839:
on my '90 745 GLE (steering heavy,
Page 840 and 841:
Rack Failure. Diagnosis of Power St
Page 842 and 843:
easy. ● Disconnect the tie rod en
Page 844 and 845:
cars. Steering Wheel Removal. [Inqu
Page 846 and 847:
the caster is different from side t
Page 848 and 849:
end of the strut rod is a round bus
Page 850 and 851:
necessary to keep your suspension i
Page 852 and 853:
● Secure a strut holder or a piec
Page 854 and 855:
Tie Rod Replacement. Diagnosis. [Do
Page 856 and 857:
Removal: Jack up the car and place
Page 858 and 859:
that axial play just disappears" (V
Page 860 and 861:
● Rear bar cannot be more simple:
Page 862 and 863:
4. The Gothenburg Bible, by Paul Gr
Page 864 and 865:
com ❍ Verrigni Auto and Marine. I
Page 866 and 867:
Source of FI Computers. A failed EC
Page 868:
General Mechanical Tips FAQ Home Vo
Page 871 and 872:
when and where you apply heat). [Ar
Page 873 and 874:
I used the slowest wire feed settin
Page 875 and 876:
at 5 pounds. To read the scale accu
Page 877 and 878:
the alternator and ground. If the d
Page 879 and 880:
Using a Dial Indicator to Minimize
Page 881 and 882:
contaminate your oxygen sensor and
Page 883 and 884:
DOWN by between thirty and forty pe
Page 885 and 886:
Volvo Special Tool Designs FAQ Home
Page 887 and 888:
Crank Holder Rear View Plan Side Vi
Page 889 and 890:
In-Line Pressure Tester Adapters. A
Page 891 and 892:
M-46 Overdrive Tools. The following
Page 893 and 894:
Pre-Pump Removal Tool. [Tip from Ro
Page 895 and 896:
Turbo Nut Installer 5411 Diesel Too
Page 897 and 898:
700/900 Series Model Identification
Page 899 and 900:
99 B6254G 8 Doors 0 - Basic engine
Page 901 and 902:
Engine: ● B230 and 234 series hav
Page 903 and 904:
Volvo 780 FAQ Home Volvo Maintenanc
Page 905 and 906:
showing at the window base, ask the
Page 907 and 908:
960-90 Series Information FAQ Home
Page 909 and 910:
coolant breakdown, so make sure you
Page 911 and 912:
hole and retested. This time the ti
Page 913 and 914:
ought. Wrap the side going down int
Page 915 and 916:
Preventive Maintenance. [Tip from T
Page 917 and 918:
underneath next to the motor mount
Page 919 and 920:
960 B6304 Fuel Rail Leakage Problem
Page 921 and 922:
drain tank. Drain about 1 to 1.5 qu
Page 923 and 924:
you strip or otherwise wreck the bo
Page 925 and 926:
psi. The new piston is made out of
Page 927 and 928:
when I had mistreated it to a coupl
Page 929 and 930:
If your car just sputters and dies
Page 931 and 932:
positive cable. Outside I cut the b
Page 933 and 934:
[Comment on Grease from Jim Bowers]
Page 936 and 937:
Components Nm (ft. lb) or degrees E
Page 938 and 939:
Conrod bearing caps, stage 2 (angle
Page 940 and 941:
of additive. Consequently, using ch
Page 942 and 943:
expensive machine. I don't think th
Page 944 and 945:
attack certain sealing materials, s
Page 946 and 947:
has a number of cast-iron engines.
Page 948 and 949:
viscometrics. ● Group III. Severe
Page 950 and 951:
of the base oil is a good measure o
Page 952 and 953:
ewarded with a smoother running car
Page 954 and 955:
[Response 1: Bernard] The B230FT en
Page 956 and 957:
Question A: The engine cranks but d
Page 958 and 959:
● Location: Cylinder head, under
Page 960 and 961:
\4 inch hose connected to the forwa
Page 962 and 963:
Alcohol 3. Clean gently with q-tips
Page 964 and 965:
Volvo Oxygen Sensor Replacements FA
Page 966 and 967:
VOLVO AC R134 refit kit instruction
Page 968 and 969:
● Supplement #1 - $30.00 Go to: P
Page 970 and 971:
maneuver.] Picture 2. diagonally up
Page 972 and 973:
install the new valve, without the
Page 974 and 975:
5. Remove knee bolster at driver’
Page 976 and 977:
Volvo 700/900 Heater Core Replaceme
Page 978 and 979:
Page 980 and 981:
Bilstein Shock I got them for about
Page 982 and 983:
into the trailing arm hole. When th
Page 984 and 985:
Volvo B6304 Oil Pickup Tube Repair
Page 986 and 987:
clearance to get the oil pan out. 1
Page 988 and 989:
24. Get all the oil pan screws back
Page 990 and 991:
Volvo B230 Connecting Rod Bearing-O
Page 992 and 993:
est when it comes to bearings and g
Page 994 and 995:
The picture below shows the shaft a
Page 996 and 997:
After pressing the seal in with my
Page 998 and 999:
Adding Remote Door Locks in 900 Car
Page 1000 and 1001:
3. Wires running to keyless control
Page 1002 and 1003:
shank (the metal part that grips th
Page 1004 and 1005:
(b) Gently lift and pull the block
Page 1006 and 1007:
(a) Remove the two Torx screws in t
Page 1008 and 1009:
(d) Move the any seat switch (e.g.,
Page 1010:
Volvo Third Seat Installation FAQ H
Page 1030 and 1031:
Engine: Turbo Rebuilding Volvo Main
Page 1032 and 1033:
2. Remove all hoses from housing; c
Page 1034 and 1035:
United Turbo Co., Spofford, NH, (ht
Page 1036 and 1037:
Mitsubishi TD05 Turbo bolted to the
Page 1038 and 1039:
Page 1040 and 1041:
Pan Gasket Gasket Kit It's a good i
Page 1042 and 1043:
Volvo AW70/71 to M-46 Transmission
Page 1044 and 1045:
from under the car. Step 2 : While
Page 1046 and 1047:
Page 1048 and 1049:
Mount and elevate car safely so tha
Page 1050 and 1051:
as noted in FAQ. Enjoy a much bette
Page 1052 and 1053:
metal pipe is joined to the pump wi
Page 1054 and 1055:
shellac or any other gasket sealers
Page 1056 and 1057:
B234F (16 valve DOHC) Timing Belt R
Page 1058 and 1059:
The timing belt used with the auto-
Page 1060 and 1061:
without being noticed. The cam timi
Page 1062 and 1063:
Unbolt the fan shroud from the radi
Page 1064 and 1065:
a)For the manual tensioner, start b
Page 1066 and 1067:
elt then place it over the right ba
Page 1068 and 1069:
finger at the mid-point of the long
Page 1070 and 1071:
elt and re-check the tension. This
Page 1072 and 1073:
Volvo B230 Headgasket Replacement F
Page 1074 and 1075:
use abrasive pads to buzz off the o
Page 1076 and 1077:
The B6304 engine is more complicate
Page 1078 and 1079:
Where to Find Euro Side Marker Lamp
Page 1080 and 1081:
extension wires are just the OEM Vo
Page 1082 and 1083:
Bulb-Out Relay Circuit Concerns. [D
Page 1084 and 1085:
components. According to this hypot
Page 1086 and 1087:
Repair Seat Belt Retractor FAQ Home
Page 1088 and 1089:
number on small end. device ● Rem
Page 1090 and 1091:
upper left and lower right not in s
Page 1092 and 1093:
epair is around $100. The trickiest
Page 1094 and 1095:
Volvo Wheel Balancing FAQ Home Volv
Page 1096 and 1097:
two front wheels and tires. His car
Page 1098 and 1099:
measured at the factory using a lar
Page 1100 and 1101:
Match Mounting of Yokohama tires in
Page 1102 and 1103:
ungees or EPDM hook straps. ● I h
Page 1104 and 1105:
are glued together This is what the
Page 1106 and 1107:
Page 1108:
1989 Volvo 740 Series 2.3L (None Tu
Page 1114:
Page 1123 and 1124:
Go to: Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 74
Page 1125 and 1126:
Detach: Go to: Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Page 1127 and 1128:
Go to: Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Ex
Page 1129 and 1130:
Go to: Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 If
Page 1131 and 1132:
Go to: Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Re
Page 1133 and 1134:
Go to: Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Co
Page 1135 and 1136:
Go to: Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Page 1137 and 1138:
One end screws onto the can and the
Page 1139 and 1140:
Here is a picture of the notice sti
Page 1149 and 1150:
Volvo AW-7X Transmission Valve Body
Page 1151 and 1152:
secured the plate using the 3 rearm
Page 1153 and 1154:
10. Grasp the lower valve body, hol
Page 1155 and 1156:
Page 1157 and 1158:
Page 1159 and 1160:
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Next Volvo M
Page 1161 and 1162:
Valve body separator plate. This go
Page 1163 and 1164:
Page 1165 and 1166:
Page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Next These a
Page 1167 and 1168:
Valve body installed in transmissio
Page 1169 and 1170:
Page 1171 and 1172:
Volvo Headliner Replacement-2 Home
Page 1173 and 1174:
● Use a headliner tool (or wooden
Page 1175 and 1176:
in fairly good shape. The fabric on
Page 1177 and 1178:
Volvo Headliner Replacement-3 FAQ H
Page 1179 and 1180:
using a razor knife (figure E). ●
Page 1181 and 1182:
● Use your scissors to punch hole
Page 1183:
oth cases this is a two person job.
show all

Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?