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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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the housing into which you can cut.<br />

11. Using a hacksaw blade, cut through the old bushing into this opening. Note the orientation<br />

of the original and align the new bushing the same way.<br />

12. "Peel" the old bushing inward and it'll pull right out.<br />

13. Scrape off any gasket material (most frustrating part of the job.) [Editor's Note: See<br />

Removing the Gasket]<br />

14. Wash the housing, insuring that all chips are removed. [See Chip Removal]<br />

15. Be sure to prelube the new bushing and new seal be<strong>for</strong>e final assembly. Position and orient AW70 Tailshaft Bushing Orientation<br />

the new bushing -- and using either a proper bushing/seal driver OR a socket of the correct<br />

diameter (perhaps with a 6" extension on it), drive the new bushing into position. I've found it<br />

slides into position easily, with only slight tapping from a hammer. [See Bushing Orientation]<br />

[Tip from Randy:] My automotive supply store has a full service machine shop and I never<br />

mess with this stuff- I take the tailshaft to them and have them press in the bushing. For the<br />

seal I apply a coating of grease to the outside diameter and tap it into place with a socket<br />

just slightly smaller than the diameter of the seal.<br />

16. Examine the new bushing to confirm the edge was not dented -- if so, clean it up slightly with a fine rat-tail file (and rewash). Be<br />

careful to not damage the main bearing surface of the bushing.<br />

17. Drive the new seal into position. I like to use a touch of Permatex aircraft gasket sealer, but it's not necessary.<br />

18. Clean any remaining gasket from the mating transmission surface.<br />

19. Install the new gasket. Again, I like to use a touch of gasket sealer, but it's not required.<br />

20. Lubricate the bushing and seal with ATF.<br />

21. Position, install, and tighten the housing.<br />

22. Wash the rear flange, lubricate the bearing and seal surface, and slide it over the splined tailshaft. [Tim] After the flange is installed it<br />

will fit tightly in the new bushing.<br />

23. Install and tighten the nut. I'm sure there is a proper procedure and torque.<br />

24. Install the speedo cable.<br />

25. Lift the tranny and install the mount bracket and crossmember. This might be a good time to install a new mount.<br />

26. Connect the driveshaft. [Editor's Note: 30 ft-lbs.]<br />

[Tip from Randy:] On assembly be sure to bolt the linkages according to the marks you made be<strong>for</strong>e disassembly. Don't <strong>for</strong>get to check<br />

the transmission fluid level, particularly if you lost some during this work.<br />

[Removing the Gasket: Randy] I've replaced two bushings and both times the most time consuming part of the job is removing the gasket<br />

between the transmission case and the rear housing from the transmission case. There isn't a lot of room to work your way around with the<br />

various tools to scrape the gasket off. I found a single edge razor blade worked best <strong>for</strong> me, and the second time I did it I was armed with a<br />

spray on gasket remover which helped a whole lot. Spray it on, let it soak, scrape a little.... repeat numerous times, being careful not to dig<br />

into the soft aluminum case when you become frustrated and begin to use that sharp wood chisel that always worked so well on removing<br />

gaskets from cast iron casings. Also it would probably be in your best interest to take extra pains to protect the exposed portion of the

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