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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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Seized . [Report: Don Willson] Pulsing brakes fixed. 1989 765T with ABS and 135,000 miles. I have not<br />

seen this solution discussed though there has been plenty of comment on the problem and other remedies.<br />

The symptoms were a pulsing of the brakes when light pressure was applied. I thought that it might be the<br />

over tightened wheel bolts or a warped rotor. So I jacked up the front and started investigating. Yes the<br />

wheel bolts were too tight but the rotor was true, they had been turned last June. What I found was a retainer<br />

locating pin was frozen in place. In replacing pads about 4 times on my wife's 744 or my previous 745 I had<br />

never realized that there might be other problems though if it had been a snake I'd have been bit.<br />

One locating pin was free to move, I could push it in and the grease seal bellows would push it back out.<br />

However the other was stuck. With about a half of an hour of twisting and prying I was able to remove the pin<br />

without damaging the retainer though the pin was trash. At <strong>Volvo</strong> I found that you can only by a kit, 4 pins, 4<br />

bellows, 4 caliper holding bolts and a tube of grease <strong>for</strong> $98. I objected but bought the kit.<br />

Reassembly was simple though I did clean out the pin sockets and polish the inner diameters with<br />

Scotchbrite on a stick on a hand drill, or use a cheap brass rifle cleaning brush. Reassembly was simple with<br />

a liberal supply of grease and properly fitting the bellows. Then locating the brake pads and slipping the<br />

caliper over the pads and fastening the caliper bolts to the locating pins. Since these pins are free to rotate a<br />

thin 13mm open end wrench comes in handy to restrain the pin while tightening the caliper bolts.<br />

Since I had the pins I decided to check the other side. I was not so <strong>for</strong>tunate, one pin was stuck so hard it<br />

twisted off and I had to get a replacement retainer, $10.<br />

My recommendation is that when replacing pads and or disks you check both retainers by pushing them to<br />

the outside of the car. If they do not move freely remove the retainer (2 hex socket bolts) and get to a vise<br />

where you can work the pins out. Replace the pins and bellows. Even if the retainer moves smoothly it might<br />

not be a bad idea to remove the pins, careful not do damage the bellows, clean the socket of old grease and<br />

any water and relube the pins. I suspect the grease is a silicone as it is water white (about like KY).<br />

[Editor] See the notes under Caliper Corrosion and Brake Hose Deterioration <strong>for</strong> similar symptoms caused<br />

by deteriorating rubber hoses.<br />

Brake Calipers Rattle: Guide Pin Wear. [Tip from Dave Stevens] TSB 51907 dated Feb/94 covers '83-'91<br />

700 series with Girling (Lucas) 2-piston front brake calipers. It simply mentions that excessive wear between<br />

the caliper guide pins and their bores might, in some cases" cause a rattling sound and that a guide pin<br />

replacement kit is available (P/N 271854-2) containing guide pins, bushings, dust seals and mounting bolts.<br />

Obviously this was not a totally uncommon problem <strong>for</strong> <strong>Volvo</strong> to have even bothered writing up the TSB.<br />

As you and the others notes, a much more likely cause <strong>for</strong> front brake rattling noise is a broken anti-rattle<br />

spring on one of the brake pads. You can inspect these without removing the pads. If you're going to change<br />

the pads you should always pop the dust covers, clean and lubricate the caliper guide pins using high temp<br />

silicon grease. Use the same grease between the back of the pads, the stainless anti-rattle plates and the<br />

piston faces to help minimize any tendency <strong>for</strong> your brakes to squeal. If you've got ABS, now is also the time<br />

to clean up the tips of those sensors (check the 740 FAQ and archives <strong>for</strong> notes on this).<br />

At every pad change you should check each guide pin in its bushing -mine wiggle a little and this is probably<br />

normal, but slop is not. This gives you a chance to properly clean and lube the guide recess. Shoot with<br />

spray brake cleaner and use a rifle cleaning brush to clean the inside of the bore. When removing a caliper,<br />

hang it up with a length of coat hanger wire or a plastic tie to prevent damage to the brake lines.<br />

Sticky Caliper: Internal Corrosion. [Inquiry] Despite replacing componens, I still have what seems to be a

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