Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

to worry about rust so everything will come apart easily. If the car is more
than 3 years old, it is generally good to replace the hardware (i.e. pins and
retaining clip).
To Remove:
● Take off wheel
● Tap out the two pins
● Remove retaining clip
● Use large screw driver to lever the pads out using their mounting ear
holes.
● Pull pads out.
● Check that the pistons are angled correctly.
To Install:
Rear Brake Hardware Kit
● Place a hose on the bleeder; open the bleeder and at the same time squeeze the pistons back using
either adjustable pliers. Use an old steel shim to cover the the piston surface beneath the plier jaw to
prevent boot tears. [Peter Penguin] If you have a tough time squeezing the piston back, remove the
top caliper guide bolt, swing the caliper back and down (carefully supporting it with a bent coathanger
so it does not place a strain on the brake hose), and either use a c-clamp or place a wood 2x4 in the
caliper space and use a pry bar to lever the piston back. Tape a plastic zip-lock baggie onto the end of
a 10" plastic hose connected to the bleeder valve. Then it can spin around without any spillage and it's
easy to inspect it the old fluid for debris. If you have ABS brakes, place a hose clamp on the brake
hose above so old fluid is not pushed up the line.
● Either re-use or replace the anti-squeel shims behind each pad. One is stainless steel, the other is
teflon-coated fiber. The shims are there to minimize squeal. Either clean them up and re-use them or
drop by a dealer for some new ones. Cleaning works well for the stainless steel shim. If you have
teflon coated and the teflon is damaged, replace. They come with new volvo OEM pads, but usually
not with aftermarket pads. Apply synthetic brake grease to both sides of the teflon shim or, if you have
no shim, to the back of the pad, to prevent squeel. Install the teflon shim between the pad backing and
the steel shim, which goes next to the piston. Apply brake grease to metal-to-metal contact points
between pad back and caliper.
● Apply some anti-seize on the pins and insert them. Don't forget the spring clip, which is oriented so
that the pins hold it in place. The first pin will go in very easily. The second pin will be a minor pain
since the clip is in place. I usually use some pliers to help line it up with the receiving hole and then tap
the pins in place with a hammer until the rubber seals are firmly in place in the caliper holes.
● Install wheel. See Anti-Corrosion Advice for tips on preventing stuck wheel bolts and wheels. Torque
wheel nuts correctly.
● Be sure to seat the pads correctly. This is very simple and there should be instructions with the pads.
Basically take the car up to 30 MPH and stop with even pressure. Repeat a few times.
Front Brake Pad Replacement. [Tips from Andre]
To Remove:
● Remove wheel
● Remove the two bolts on the back side of the calipers holding the caliper guide bolts in place. Note
that there is a lock nut next to the rubber caliper pin sleeve, which requires a thin 17mm wrench to
hold while you rotate the bolt at the back. A bicycle wrench is perfect for this. You can now pull the
whole assembly away from the rotor. Due to wear, the old pads may get slightly stuck in a groove.
Insert a large screw driver between the caliper and the rotor and lift... it will come off pretty without too