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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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Car Stalls, Lights Die: Electrical Ground Fault. [Inquiry:] Does anyone know if the<br />

bulb out sensor box can cause a dim headlight intermittantly. Sometimes if at a stop<br />

light or parked, if I turn on the brights the engine will die. Also sometimes the rt. turn<br />

sign and bright indicator on the dash appear to be dim when they shouldn't be lit at<br />

all. [Response:] There is a ground bar on each inner front fender. Make sure all of<br />

these wire connectors are clean and tight. I <strong>for</strong>get what else grounds here but a dirty/<br />

loose ground at this grounding point will cause the engine to die and also dim<br />

headlights. Check both ground points <strong>for</strong> the inner fender area <strong>for</strong> being loose and/or<br />

dirty.<br />

Car Over-Revs RPMs While Under Acceleration. [Inquiry] I occasional get an overrev<br />

when accelerating hard. The car is a 940 Turbo with a manual transmission and<br />

overdrive. Typical symtoms appear when I accelerate in third or fouth; there is an<br />

increase in engine revs without the increase in speed. [Response: JohnB] The<br />

condition is called "flare"; you have clutch slip or clutch slip in the overdrive unit. Bring<br />

it up to 50mph in 3rd or fourth (somewhere around 3500 rpm, your choice/speed) and<br />

use full throttle with your other foot on the brake to maintain speed....engine speed<br />

should not increase.<br />

LH-2 Cold Idle Problems -Bad ECT or O2 Sensor and Wiring Harness Notes (BB)<br />

The block temperature sensor (ECT engine coolant temperature sensor under the<br />

intake manifold) plays a big part in cold running decisions and could pre-maturely<br />

allow the O2 sensor signal being used be<strong>for</strong>e the engine is warm. Because of this a<br />

cold idle problem rarely involves a faulty O2 sensor, but may involve the temp sensor<br />

and more specifically the wiring at the temp sensor. My experience is that this usually<br />

leads to quite rough running at all times, but fast idle and poor acceleration are known<br />

symptoms. With the ignition on and all wiring in place, you should see voltage at the<br />

temp sensor terminal connected to the blue (or orange) wire that goes back to the<br />

ECU. See Diagnosing ECT Failures <strong>for</strong> more in<strong>for</strong>mation. No volts means broken<br />

wiring or bad ECU. A bad ECU may actually just be a bad ground at the ECU, so be<br />

warned. A cold engine should read 2-4 volts, a fully warmed engine 0-2 volts. If you<br />

see the full supply voltage of 4-5 volts (the reading you should get from the ECU when<br />

the connector is pulled off the temp sensor) then the temp sensor or its ground wire<br />

are faulty.<br />

The temp sensor wiring goes into the wiring harness and along the firewall be<strong>for</strong>e<br />

joining with the O2 sensor wiring and going through the firewall to the ECU behind the<br />

right side kick panel. If you have a general wiring harness deterioration problem then a<br />

fair bit of digging and careful tracing may be required to isolate the problem. You can

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