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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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install the new valve, without the nuts. Attach the valve to the air-diverter post and<br />

replace the lock piece. Next, replace the nuts on the new vacuum valve. You may<br />

need to use some masking tape inside of the socket to hold the nuts in place to<br />

prevent them from falling out. Be careful putting these nuts back on as the plastic<br />

studs may break.<br />

I am now going to assume that you have broken one or both plastic studs on the<br />

vacuum valve. You will need to fabricate a bracket, as noted in picture #4. Bracket<br />

material is the same material as used to mount car radios. This has multiple<br />

per<strong>for</strong>ations and is fairly easily bent. Tom Irwin experienced breaking both studs and<br />

fabricated a bracket which held the valve on by going over the vacuum valve. The<br />

bracket had a hole in the center, which was enlarged, to go over the center hole of the<br />

vacuum valve. The bracket was attached to the air-box by using small screws. The<br />

bracket I used had a small bolt going through the box. Make certain that wherever<br />

you mount the screws that they cause no interference with the movement of the<br />

diverter in the air-box.<br />

Attach vacuum hoses. Start the car, and check that the valve works properly by<br />

moving your heating-air-conditioning controls. If all is well, clean up the edges of the<br />

flaps which were cut, bend them back into position, and use J-B Weld or a similar<br />

product to hold in position. Next, use the black RTV-silicone sealant. Do not use too<br />

much as it could interfere with inside air-flap movement! After the sealant is dry, you<br />

may desire to put duct-tape over the entire incision. You will note in Picture #6 the<br />

reassembled unit minus the duct-tape. This has worked well <strong>for</strong> us during the past

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