Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

TDC + 180dg (or is it TDC - 90dg and TDC + 90dg? can't remember.) Either way,
these little windows look like the perfect place to put a square shank screwdriver,
but the sheetmetal ring is very weak and if you bend it even the slightest there's a
good chance your fuel injection system will get highly confused. I believe that if the
ring is even 1mm out of round, the pickup may miss one or more windows.
Another Flywheel Clamping Technique from Barret Flake: A similar alternative to the one
requiring the removal of the flywheel inspection plate: Remove or back out most of the length of
the bolts (4) holding the flywheel inspection plate. Take the flat head screwdriver bit from your
cordless screwdriver, I think they all are 1/4" hex drive, and slide it between the inspection plate
and the bell housing with the flat head pushed in between the gear teeth. Now tighten the bolts
to effectively clamp the screwdrive bit between the bell housing and the inspection plate. With
this set up you don't have to worry about holding the screwdriver in the teeth while trying to
simultaneously loosen the big bolt. Also, you don't have to switch the screwdriver from one side
of the housing to the other when you retighten the crank bolt. Worked like a charm for me. (93
940 B230FT/AW automatic)
Method 4: Large Breaker Bar on the Bolt. [Yet Another Bolt Removal Technique from Chris
Mullet] Remove the splash shield. After all drive belts are removed, take the short wide one
(from A/C) and hang it on the crank pulley only, so that it dangles down below the car. Slide
about a 4 foot long board, under the air dam, through the hanging belt, and lodge the end under
the cross member or oil pan. (I used a 2x6 with a belt I knew I was going to throw away. You
could probably round the edges of the board, use a pipe, or just be a little careful if you are
worried about hurting the belt.) With one foot, push down on the front end of the board in front of
the bumper, until you just start to compress the motor mounts. I don’t think it will take much
weight as you have quite a mechanical advantage. While holding down on the board, take your
breaker bar and solid hammer and knock the bolt loose.
You can use the same method to retorque the bolt.
Now, some people will say you run the risk of spinning the center part of the pulley inside the
damped outer section. I guess that’s a possibility, but by pulling down firmly on the outer pulley,
versus just holding it stationary with some other strap type holder, you increase the friction
between the two....don’t you?
Method 5: Rope Trick in Cylinder. [Another Bolt Removal Tip from Don Foster: The Rope
Trick] Use nylon rope to jam the piston at TDC while you turn the crank pulley bolt. Be careful
how you do this: you can damage the valves.
● Be absolutely certain you're at cylinder #1 TDC between the compression and power
strokes. This way the valves will be closed. You can tell this by feeling compression
pressure, using your finger, in the spark plug hole.
● Turn the crankshaft clockwise (facing the engine) about 1/4 to 1/3 turn. Stuff in about 2-3'
of 1/4" soft rope — nylon or cotton clothesline should work.
● Turn the crank counter clockwise as to unscrew the pulley bolt. The rope compresses and
jams the piston. Using a breaker bar, loosen and remove the bolt.
● To reassemble, use the same approach except stage the crankshaft about 1/4 to 1/3 turn
counter clockwise from #1 TDC. Stuff in the rope. Turn the crank clockwise to compress