Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

Mitsubishi TD05 turbo used on 87-89
700Ts has the wastegate bolted to the
turbo with bolts from the engine side of
the exhaust manifold. In order to
remove the wastegate, you have to
remove the exhaust manifold. The
Mitsubishi TD04H used on the 90-93
700Ts and 900Ts has the wastegate Mitsubishi Turbo Disassembly
mounted to the turbo with nuts on studs
which are on the manifold side away
from the engine. On this turbo, you can
remove the turbo and wastegate
assembly without removing the exhaust
manifold. Wastegates do crack and
sometimes need to be replaced. [Paul
Demeo] Removing: Don't sweat the oil
return line for now, you can remove the turbo with it attached. (You'll still have to go through the
pain when reinstalling, but for now...) Easiest way to remove a Mitsu: There is a pipe-clamp-ish
collar between the center section and the exhaust housing, which should come off very easily.
Once removed, the turbo is held in place only by virtue of the fact that it's been there a while. A
good thump with your hand and it should pop free, allowing you to pull it up and out with the
drain hose attached.
[More tips] I'm writing now to say that I have completed the turbo replacement on my '84 240.
Replacement was purchased from IPD and included everything needed (plus some duplicate
gaskets with the watercooling conversion kit). IPD sent instructions, plus I had the Bentley book,
and things were relatively straightforward except some hassle getting bolts off and back on in
tight places. (It seemed to me I needed to have two hands plus my head/eyes plus a light all in a
space that was only big enough for any two of those at a time!) Another hassle was my error in
putting the O2 sensor back in before the support bracket (mine's on the bottom); had to take the
O2 sensor back out, then do this bracket, which also had spacers between it and the block. I
finally figured out I could use masking tape to hold the spacers on the bolts in the bracket while I
moved it up into position one-handed and got the bolts started. I've been driving it to work again
this week, with no leaks, no smoke, and notably improved power. Should note also that doing it
myself saved considerable money; counting new oil pipes (I reluctantly got both, but probably
only really needed the "to" pipe) and the IPD costs, I had ~$900 in parts. Local dealer quoted a
cost for the job at ~$2100, and one independent shop quoted ~$1400. You'll need the range of
basic hand tools, PB Blaster or equivalent if there is one (I used it often, including on exhaust
manifold and exhaust flange studs and did not break any of them), and I think a sturdy vice is a
must as well to get the manifold and turbo separated, but it was overall not that difficult (at least
now that I'm done with it!!) I did have to move the exhaust flange studs to the new turbo, but PB
Blaster and the two-nut method worked OK. I at first put the propane torch to the old turbo
intending to loosen the studs, but in retrospect it wasn't necessary, once I got the hang of the
two-bolt method.
The parts and instructions left me with a pretty good feeling about IPD also (although they
apparently just buy the turbo from a different company in Colorado and put it and a watercooling
kit together in a bigger box).I don't mean this as an advertisement or a criticism; I'm glad I got