Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

though, as the crankshaft marks are well out of sight at the 7 o'clock position. [Rob Bareiss]
Don't buy the wrong timing belt. Cars to 1993 had a 50k belt with square teeth; 1994-95 cars
with FD engines use a 100k belt with rounded teeth.
Removing the A/C Compressor Belt. [Tips from Justin Seiferth] This can be tough. Loosen the
12mm holding bolt and the unscrew the 10mm tensioner bolt till there's a 1/4" of slack or so. If
you still can't remove the belt, try unscrewing the 13mm mounting bolt just below the A/C
compressor, this should give you enough slack. When putting the belt back on, make sure this
mounting bolt is retightened. Put the A/C compressor belt onto the bottom of the crankshaft
pulley and use the crankshaft bolt to turn the engine and inch the belt back on. It's a tight fit.
If you have a two piece timing belt cover, you can't remove the bottom half until you've taken off
the crankshaft pulley. Be sure to put this cover back on after you've changed the belt and before
you reinstall the pulley!
Lower Timing Gear Washer Installation [Gary DiFrancesco] This is one of those goofs that not
everyone wants to fess up to, but sharing it could save someone a lot of grief. Several weeks
ago, I replaced the timing belt in my '88 745T. The job seemed to go normally. A few weeks
later I noticed what sounded like a worn bearing squawking away in the area of the tensioning
pulley. I did not change the pulley when doing the belt since it seemed to be in good shape, and
running smooth. When I removed the timing belt cover to replace the pulley, I found the
compartment full of black fuzz. It was apparent the source of the fuzz was near the crank, and
evidence of abrasion was visible on the outside edge of the timing belt.
To make a long story short, I reassembled the lower timing belt gear (on the crank) incorrectly.
The outside washer for the timing belt gear was put on the shaft backwards. The subtle flare of
this washer was pointing in and was rubbing the edge of the timing belt. I lost about 1/16" of the
width of the timing belt in less than 400 miles. This error is an easy one to make: the washers
can be installed both ways. The lesson here is obvious; double check your work before covering
everything up. It might just save you some grief. [Genaro Lopez] Install the metal washers like
this: ) belt ( The dished sides go away from the belt.
Locating Top Dead Center. [Inquiry] How do I find TDC on my B230F when changing the timing
belt? [Response: Don Foster] Pull plug #1 and stick your finger in the hole. Turn the front
pulley with a socket wrench until you see the timing mark (front of timing belt cover and on front
pulley) coming up on 0 degrees. If you feel no pressure in cylinder #1, then it's TDC but on the
exhaust/intake stroke.
Continue turning the front pulley until you feel pressure on your finger as you approach 0
degrees. At 0 degrees, you're at TDC for #1.
Remember that as you replace the belt, you should "fine tune" setting the crank and cam at their
alignment marks (the I-shaft isn't important on a 700, but it's good practice to do it).
Timing Belt Marks [Tips from Ross Gunn] The OEM belt has some printed lines that you position
at the timing marks on the three pulleys, but other than that not much difference. You still have
to find the timing marks and it can be a nuisance trying to position the belt on the marks on the
pulleys. If you have factory belt with alignment stripes on it, use a piece of chalk to extend the
alignment marks onto the front of your new belt. This will make installation just a little easier.