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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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Wheel Torque and Warped Rotors. <strong>Volvo</strong> rotors will warp like crazy if the wheel nuts are over-tightened and/<br />

or not tightened evenly. If you see someone use an air wrench on your lug nuts when installing your wheels -<br />

warped rotors are just a few miles away. Our 1988 760 has gone through several sets of rotors. The problem<br />

has been solved since I now insist on a torque wrench being used after the lug nuts are hand tightened.<br />

Current rotors have over 40,000 miles and are living well. When you have work done at a tire shop they are<br />

there to do what you need done, not what is the fastest <strong>for</strong> them. Let them use the air tools on someone<br />

else's car.<br />

Calipers and Guide Pins:<br />

Caliper Guide Pins: <strong>Maintenance</strong><br />

Guide Pin Discussion. In the Girling front brakes there is a retainer cage that fastens to two "ears" on the<br />

axle assembly. There are 2 hex socket bolts that hold this retainer on. At the back of the retainer are two<br />

sockets that each receive a floating locating pin encased by a rubber sleeve. The caliper is bolted to these<br />

pins so that it is free to move sideways a centimeter or so. The pins have to be lubricated and free to move.<br />

In my case one of these pins on each side was frozen and not moving. Thus when the brakes were applied<br />

the pistons were able to push the inside pad out but the caliper was not able to move in and pull the outer<br />

pad into firm contact. This caused noise and pulsing. [Tip] The front caliper is held by two floating guide pins<br />

which move within a bushing fitted into the caliper. Often this bushing shows corrosion and the pin can not<br />

be moved within the caliper. If so, the brake per<strong>for</strong>mance decreases as the two calipers cannot press the<br />

disc properly. To inspect the functioning of the brakes: remove the guide pin bolts and pull the caliper up and<br />

away from the guide pins. You should be able to easily move the guide pins in and out. If not, the pin or<br />

bushing is corroded or in need of lubricant.<br />

Removing Caliper Guide Pins. [Tip from John B] On Girling it's pretty straight<strong>for</strong>ward: remove the fixing bolt,<br />

pry the collar on the rubber boot from the caliper and then the boot and the guide pin should come out. Lube<br />

the new pin with synthetic brake grease and insert it, put the new boot over the lip and press the collar on so<br />

that the ridge on the rubber collar fits in the recess on the pin. On Bendix, it's a little more difficult, you have<br />

to ensure the ridges on the boot inside mesh up with the indent on the boot mounting ridge. [Tip from<br />

Randy] Unless they are seized the guide pins simply slide in and out after removing the brake pad. If they<br />

are seized a good soaking with Aerokroil (or your favorite penetrating liquid) along with the application of the<br />

correctly sized socket to add torque and a hammer to add vibration will help. Clean the hole thoroughly and<br />

apply an anti seize compound be<strong>for</strong>e assembly. I actually sprayed a lot of Kroil into the boot and let it soak.<br />

The best aid in having penetrating fluid work is TIME- as in long soak time. [Chris Herbst] One effective way<br />

to free the pin is to turn it back and <strong>for</strong>th while trying to extract it. It's not the easiest thing to do, and if it<br />

doesn't work, you are going to be in the market <strong>for</strong> a caliper carrier, which is not expensive.<br />

Lubricant Recommendations. [Tip from Motor Magazine] Most brake lubricants suitable <strong>for</strong> use today are<br />

silicone-based; petroleum-based lubes may cause some newer rubber components to swell. [Editor] Use a<br />

brake lubricant specifically made <strong>for</strong> use on the guide pins; most will say "synthetic" or "silicone". Replace<br />

any torn rubber covers. Check the operation and lubrication of the guide pins at each pad change.<br />

Rebuild Kit. <strong>Volvo</strong> has available a repair kit <strong>for</strong> the lower caliper guide. Cost <strong>for</strong> the Bendix version is<br />

approximately $30 US. Repairing the damaged caliper guide with a kit may be preferable in some<br />

circumstances <strong>for</strong> some owners. The heart of the rebuild kit is a new guide pin with a different design from<br />

the old one. Actually, there are two guide pin rebuild kits: one <strong>for</strong> the lower guide pin only, and one <strong>for</strong> both<br />

upper and lower. The lower guide pin is the one that is most often jammed. To determine whether either of

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