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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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the rope and jam the piston. Tighten and torque the center bolt following the "torque and<br />

turn" procedure.<br />

● Remove the rope, install the plug.<br />

Pulley Removal. [Tip from Pete Fluitman] Once you get the bolt off, the pulley will just come off<br />

with a little persuasion. Don't get violent with it though. Usually as I'm facing it and it is stubborn<br />

put a pry bar on the left f the pully between it and the engine block, and on the right gently tap,<br />

preferably with a hide hammer. Once it moves you can just wriggle it off. Or use a puller. Now is<br />

the time to inspect the condition of the harmonic balancer rubber and make sure it is intact.<br />

[Chris Herbst] Take a rubber mallet or a light hammer and tap the perimeter of the pulley, going<br />

around the edge as you tap. Sometimes you can hit on it a few times in one spot, and a few<br />

times directly across from that spot. Repeat a few times but don't smash the thing<br />

unnecessarily. Eventually you should be able to just pull it off. You'll see it start to move around<br />

a little bit, and that's the high sign. Sometimes you have to wiggle it back and <strong>for</strong>th a little bit as<br />

it goes.<br />

Pulley Installation: Tightening with a Belt. [Tip from Carl Buxbaum] After replacing my timing<br />

belt, in order to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 60N/M, I wrapped one of the old drivebelts<br />

around the innermost groove of the pulley, and notched a couple of teeth of the belt over the top<br />

of the water pump, where there are a couple of ridges that helped hold it there. While grasping<br />

the belt with my left hand I was able to tighten the bolt to spec with my right without too much<br />

difficulty. [Editor] Note that Scantech and some <strong>Volvo</strong> harmonic balancers must have the holes<br />

filed out to fit the 5284 tool. The casting is ridged, causing the tool to shift under torque. File<br />

square.<br />

B230F Crank Bolt Torque on Re-installation. [Abe Crombie] Torque this bolt to 60N-m (45 ft-lb)<br />

plus an additional 60 degrees (1/6 turn).<br />

Timing Belt Tips in B23/B230.<br />

Save Your Radiator. [Steve Cole] Cover the engine side of the radiator with cardboard to<br />

prevent damaging the fins. I thought of doing this at the begining of the project, but decided to<br />

be careful instead. After I hit the radiator fins twice with a wrench I put some cardboard there.<br />

Aftermarket Belts? I am going to be replacing the timing belt and front engine seals, on a 91,<br />

740, non-turbo, sedan, B230F engine. I have a few questions: Does anyone besides Kent-<br />

Moore make any of the <strong>Volvo</strong> Special Service Tools? Are aftermarket timing belts and seals<br />

okay on quality from somewhere like PepBoys? Will I need a Vibration Damper (Harmonic<br />

Balancer) puller <strong>for</strong> the Crankshaft?<br />

[Response 1: Phil] Pep Boys is not known <strong>for</strong> good belts...at least the ones I've tried. You're<br />

better off getting a name brand belt. Both TRW and Goodyear brands both have the markings<br />

on them and I'm sure other name brands do also.[Response: Zee] Contitech is an aftermarket<br />

belt that my shop has used <strong>for</strong> decades. I liked the fact it had lines on it marking the positions of<br />

the timing gears. Great help on the install. (you will only see the lines <strong>for</strong> the two top gears,

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