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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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side/rear windows are not laminated, as is required of windscreens here in the US, and of all<br />

windows in more advanced countries. A good film will stop bits of glass from flying about.<br />

Removing Tint Film:<br />

[Inquiry] How do I remove old window tint film? [Response: Yvan] Grocery-store ammonia is the<br />

solvent <strong>for</strong> tint removal (but use it outside, preferably on a windy day; very bad fumes). Usually<br />

tint will come off in big sheets once you get started. Just take your time. For tint installed below<br />

the window rubber trim, remove to within one inch above the rubber line then peel the remaining<br />

bit from the window using a razor blade and a syringe filled with ammonia that is deposited in<br />

the crack. The ammonia will loosen the film (about 15-20 minutes) and you should be able to<br />

peel it up from below the rubber. The remaining adhesive comes off easily with ammonia-based<br />

window cleaner and a razor blade. [Tip] See http://www.tintcenter.com/articles/bt_removal.html<br />

Replacing Window Glass in Track. [Inquiry] How do I put the front drivers window glass back<br />

in track. The window has somehow came out of its door hinge side track. Took off panel, but<br />

have no ideas on how to get it back in. [Response: Bob] Release the two clips that mount the<br />

window to the track, and pull the regulator mountings out of the mounting at the base of the<br />

window. Now, tilt the rear edge of the glass upward and front downward till it clears the tracks,<br />

re-insert the glass in the track while tilting glass back to horizantal. Once everything is back in<br />

place and clips reinstalled, roll the window up all the way and using a large screwdriver, bend<br />

the lower portion of the front track rearward to prevent it hapening again. [Tip from Tom F] To fix<br />

a loose side window, I had removed the window and the window lift, reinstalled the window into<br />

the lift with a little 3M gasket cement, and attempted to put the lift back into the plastic guides.<br />

Impossible! It looked different from the Haynes photos. There was nothing to remove or drill out<br />

to allow the necessary maneuvering. I removed the window and was able to remove the lift from<br />

the window, luckily, because the glue didn't fully cure. First, make sure you mark the location of<br />

the lift on the window be<strong>for</strong>e you clean all the grime off. Then, the easiest way to reinstall the<br />

window is by putting the window into the lift, with the lift installed on the plastic guides. It was a<br />

little awkward but I was able to fully seat the window into the lift.<br />

Replacement Windshield. [Notes from Bernard Paulson:] It happened to me a few days ago.<br />

Saw that iron rod flying through the air, lifted by the rear tire of the car in front of me, right<br />

toward my head. It hit the hood and then went right into and half-way through my windshield.<br />

Even the glass shops believed that someone has shot at me. After all, this is L.A. Didn't bother<br />

to check with <strong>Volvo</strong>. Used my brains and connections instead in my attempt to find the most<br />

reasonable QUALITY windshield. Interestingly, I found out that the windshields <strong>for</strong> 88 and up<br />

765s are of a different size than the "regular" 700 windshields (no kidding).<br />

Finally found what I was looking <strong>for</strong>. A brand new, safety windshield, tinted, with shade, and<br />

European E11 seal etched it, certifying it as one that meets toughest European standards (yes,<br />

the DO check stuff like that). The parts number is FW575. I paid $145.00 installed plus $8.25<br />

tax, and having paid a total of $153.25, I once again cannot confirm that it is expensive to keep<br />

a "Luxury <strong>Volvo</strong>" on the road.

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