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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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and <strong>for</strong>th a bunch of times (I did it with the engine off) to clean the PNP switch contacts. It works!<br />

960 Flashing Transmission Lights. [Inquiry] After selecting low gear and accelerating, I get a<br />

series of flashing lights: the instrument panel arrow flashes, the lights alternate between "E" and<br />

"W" on trans selector, switch positions "E" and "S" will stay depressed when depressed, but "W"<br />

will NOT stay depressed. The tranny shifts normally. What is wrong? [Response: Tom] You<br />

have a faulty gear position sensor. I had mine replaced at around 68000 miles, but some last<br />

longer. It is on the right passenger side of the tanny, next to the fluid cooler line.<br />

Other Concerns:<br />

Unexplained Driveability Problems: Rotten Battery Cables. [Tips from Tom Irwin]<br />

Symptoms: No Hot Restart<br />

My '92 960 wagon will not start after short trips. The gear shifter will lock when placed into<br />

"park" and the car will not make a sound (other than the "click" when I turn over the ignition)<br />

when I attempt to re-start it. Usually, after sitting <strong>for</strong> about an hour, the car will start normally. Is<br />

this my PNP switch? [Response: Etherman] Put the trans in PARK. Turn the key to #2. Step on<br />

the brake and attempt to shift out of Park. Does it happen? I think it will. If so, your PNP is<br />

working. In this case, look to a bad battery and/or voltage drop in the batt cables which may or<br />

may not exhibit signs of corrosion. Check the voltage drop on both cables. $5.00 says your<br />

positive cable needs to be spliced or replaced.<br />

Symptoms and Problem Diagnosis.Stalling and Random Electrical Problems<br />

960 showed occasional cutting out, complicated by intermittent ABS warnings without any codes<br />

set. Engine dying at intersections, etc. Apparently "ABS WARNING" when translated from<br />

Swedish means "Low Voltage". As with the FWD <strong>Volvo</strong>'s, the battery cables rot inside the<br />

crimps, where it's not visible, and they exhibit voltage drop across the length. <strong>Volvo</strong> knows<br />

about this and specs a max drop of 0.09v end to end. Beyond this limit everything gets<br />

squirrely.. the ECU turns inside out, etc. Below 10volts, the ABS trips out and sets a code that's<br />

the Swedish way of suggesting you have a battery problem. This will kill your voltage regulator<br />

too. My Red cable was showing 0.34v drop, four times the limit. I touched the negative battery<br />

clamp, it was cool. Then I touched the positive clamp and it was HOT! Looked real good... clean<br />

and tight and whatnot... but that internal ROT is blocking most of my current, so the voltage<br />

drops... My friend, the master tech says he replaces them all the time on 960's and 850's. But,<br />

he added, the part that goes bad is always at the terminals, inside the crimp. So a repair in situ<br />

was in order.<br />

Repair Procedure <strong>for</strong> Battery Cable Ends<br />

Procedure 1: I bought a Pep Boys 25 inch "NASCAR" Battery cable with two ends crimped on<br />

it. I cut it to about 12", then I put red shrink tube around all three conductors, boom! Instant

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