Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

[Editor:] When you install a new splash shield, reinforce the holes with glued fender washers (see Repair
above) and lay a bead of urethane adhesive such as "Goop" along the side corners to distribute stresses,
especially at the rear corner holes.
Bellhousing Bolt Removal. [Inquiry] How do you remove the top bellhousing bolts, which have little access?
[Response: Dick Riess] I used two long sections of extensions, one with a wobble joint, while dropping the tail
end of the tranny and got at them very easily. I believe the secret is to allow the engine and tranny to drop
down after removing the tranny crossmember so that you can visualize them from a distance. See the FAQ
section on transmission removal for more information.
Flywheel Position on Re-installation. [Inquiry:] I didn't mark the position when I removed the flywheel to
replace rear main oil seal. How do I replace it? [Response: Abe Crombie] Turn the engine to #1 TDC (timing
marks in line on crank pulley to pointer on timing belt cover), then install the flywheel so that the two rivet-like
pins that are on flywheel inboard of ring gear about 1+ inch are on the exhaust side of block roughly at 2 o'clock
and 3:30 while the engine is at TDC. You might find that at this position you will see a faintly stamped arrow
pointing at the crank sensor. Not all flywheels had this arrow for the first couple of years, so you might not find it
on yours. One bolt hole in either direction puts them way out of this orientation. The spot on edge of flywheel
where the holed surface is interrupted will be mostly lined up with starter when it is correct.
[Response: Dick Riess] The flywheel orientation must be correct on newer engines using crank position
sensors or you will get a no start/erratic spark timing problem. The crank sensor reads special cutouts in the
flywheel to determine crankshaft positioning. On these newer engines using the crank position sensor, the flex