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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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marks. Make sure the guide washers are oriented correctly on the lower timing<br />

gear on the crankshaft.<br />

13. Stretch timing belt on tension side and fit timing belt on camshaft sprocket and<br />

tensioner roller. Make sure timing belt is correctly installed and sprocket marks line<br />

up with marks on engine.<br />

14. Tension timing belt: Release the belt tensioner by loosening the nut or pulling out<br />

the nail. Tap the tensioner flange with a hammer to ensure it is seated in its<br />

mounting holes. Tighten the tensioner nut. Loosen tensioner nut approx. 1 turn to<br />

let it tension timing belt. Then tighten tensioner nut again to 37 ft-lbs.<br />

15. If this is your first belt change, use Whiteout or white paint to highlight the timing<br />

belt marks on the inner timing belt cover and make the next change easier..<br />

16. Clean and install timing belt lower cover. Install crankshaft pulley vibration<br />

damper. Make sure that the dowel (guide pin) on the sprocket engages with the<br />

hole in the pulley. [Editor: See Timing Belt Tips to help ensure the damper pin is<br />

engaged.] Use special tool 5248 to hold. [Editor's Note: See Bolt, Two Caveats<br />

first.] Use special tool 5284 or secure the flywheel and tighten the pulley bolt to the<br />

specified torque which is 44 ft-lb (60 Nm) PLUS an additional 1/6 turn, or 60<br />

degrees.<br />

17. Clean and install upper timing belt cover.<br />

18. Install: clips <strong>for</strong> preheater hose, fan, fan shroud and drive belts. Check that ignition<br />

timing is correct.<br />

19. Run Engine Run engine until it reaches normal operating temperature while<br />

checking operation. Then stop engine.<br />

20. Readjust timing belt tension. Remove rubber plug from cover. Release belt<br />

tensioner nut approx. 1 turn to let tensioner spring stretch timing belt. Rotate<br />

engine clockwise at least one half turn to top dead center (TDC) using crankshaft<br />

bolt in order to properly position the tensioner. Retighten nut to 37 ft-lb (50 Nm)<br />

and install rubber plug in cover. If a new belt has been installed, repeat this retensioning<br />

after approximately 600 miles (1000 km).<br />

3. Plate and Pulley Tensioner Re-Assembly. [Inquiry:] I got the crank pulley on my 91 740 off<br />

finally, retimed the sprockets and the crank is on TDC. I now need to reassemble everything.<br />

The first question I have is which guide plate goes in first. There are two: one has a u- shape<br />

hole on the edge, and the other has two holes on the edge, a rectangular shape hole, and an<br />

additional small notch on the opposite side. Which plate goes in first?<br />

[Response: Don Foster] You'll notice that the washers or "guide plates", as you call them, are<br />

flared or beveled or dished or bell-shaped -- pick your descriptive term. They must be oriented<br />

so the flare is away from the belt like this ")B(". Otherwise the sharp edge will quickly abrade the<br />

belt.<br />

First, slide one "plate" over the crank. I think the plate with a notch fits over the woodruff key. Be<br />

sure the "dish" is toward the engine. Then fit the crank sprocket, again over the key. Then<br />

install the timing belt, taking all the previously-mentioned precautions to align timing marks on<br />

belt, sprockets, and block. Release the tensioner to hold the belt against the sprockets.<br />

Install the outer "guide plate", nearest you (this one dies not need to fit over the key), assuring<br />

the "dish" is outward (toward you) so it won't cut the belt. It has no orientation, other than dishedout.<br />

(And the inner plate has a keyway simply so it'll fit over the key -- it doesn't otherwise need

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