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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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Trailer Hitch. [Inquiry:] I am considering installing a trailer hitch on my 1996 960<br />

wagon. Has anyone used an alternative to the <strong>Volvo</strong> hitch kit and if so how successfully<br />

and approximate cost.<br />

<strong>Volvo</strong> Hitch:<br />

[Response: Jim Bowers] I advocate the hitch kit from <strong>Volvo</strong>. It just bolts in place and is<br />

so complete with instructions etc. you can DIY in less than an hour. It even includes a<br />

stick-on template to trim the lower plastic trim below the bumper if needed. It utilizes nuts<br />

already welded into place on the frame rails. The "tow hook" is removed on that side and<br />

those bolt holes are used. While it may cost a few $ more than an aftermarket one, it is<br />

the best and is rated <strong>for</strong> the car's maximum tow rating. The receiver insert can be<br />

ordered with either a 2' or 1 7/8' ball. It can be changed later to any size desired.<br />

Again the most reliable electrical connections will be obtained by ordering the kits from<br />

your friendly <strong>Volvo</strong> parts guy. The wire kit is quite expensive but in comparing the work it<br />

required to get my '85 working with Radio Shack parts to using the kit on my '96 I would<br />

do the <strong>Volvo</strong> kit again in a second. The <strong>Volvo</strong> kit comes with complete instructions and<br />

the wiring job was an easy one evening job. (All the bulb warning features still work<br />

correctly and the '96 has a trailor light indicator in the dash. Similar to directional<br />

indicators.) [Comment: W.T. Bostick] The only problem I've found with the <strong>Volvo</strong> hitch is<br />

that it's an odd-ball size of receiver(rectangular tubing instead of square) , so bike racks<br />

ect. that use a standard reciever size will have to be modified (cut off the receiver insert<br />

tubing from the rack and weld on the <strong>Volvo</strong>-size tubing). I believe the it's the same<br />

height as a standard reciever just wider so you might get away with some sort of shim<br />

though.<br />

Others:<br />

[Response: Wormy J] Go to U-Haul, their hitch is the same as IPD both made by<br />

Drawtite. It was about $140 installed. They my let you have it <strong>for</strong> less if you bolt it in (six<br />

bolts). As far as wiring just run a wire from the relay to the rear <strong>for</strong> the brake lights. Use<br />

wire diagram to hook it upstream of relay. The other lights do not run thru the relay so<br />

you can tap into them at the rear. [Editor:] IPD now sells a wiring kit to integrate the<br />

<strong>Volvo</strong> wiring with standard US trailer wiring: five wires to four. [Nathan Babcock] I had<br />

ordered a Class II Reese hitch (with free drawbar) from Hitchfinder.com. It was $120.00,<br />

but shipping was a bit more than the $116.00 Drawtite at eTrailer.com. However the free<br />

drawbar ($20.00 value) makes the Reese hitch a better value than the Drawtite. Plus the<br />

Reese has optional weight distributing and the exact same tow specs (3500 lbs, 350 lbs<br />

tounge weight). This is a NICE hitch, heavy, *well* made. The free drawbar is also nice,<br />

solid piece of steel, exactly like the $20.00 model offered at eTrailer, but painted black.<br />

Aside from the drawbar and pin, the kit included seven heavy duty 19mm head, 30mm<br />

long hex bolts with washers and supplemental lock washers (one extra). In short, they<br />

give you everything but the thread lock and the wrench to install it.<br />

Interchangeability: The sedan and wagon hitches are interchangeable.

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