Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

loosen and push out the filter. When I put it back on, it is difficult to get the right angle of
the rubber line around the cage unless it is one of the last things tightened.
● Once free of fuel lines, loosen the clamp around the middle and swap it out.
● Replace fuel filter and banjo gaskets. The new filter will come with 4 copper crush
washers, two for each compression fitting -- note the location of the old ones as you
remove the fittings. The BEST (most successful) way to reinstall the fuel lines is with an
impact wrench, while gripping the filter body with a free hand. Just "BRrraaapp!" until it
feels right. Using hand wrenches, you stand a good chance of twisting the lines under
load, potentially causing a leak failure. Use a backup wrench. And be EXTREMELY
careful.
● Cinch the clamp. Bend the cradle back up and tighten the bolts.
● Check for leaks when you are done and it is running.
Gasoline Spillage. [Tips from Patrick] Make SURE the negative cable on the batt is
disconnected! (have your radio code available.) Be EXTREMELY careful as a significant
volume of fuel may come out. Be ready to catch all the gas in the filter and the line between the
filter and the engine. Some gas drips out of the main pump with the filter removed, but it won't
be much as long as you keep the pump and tray assembly elevated as you replace the filter. If
you remove all the carrier bolts, have an old box or something ready to support the weight of the
tray -- don't let the tray hang by the fuel lines! An oil pan has more than enough volume to do
this job. One last word of caution ... don't smoke when doing this job.
Copper Washers. Whenever you change the fuel filter, make sure you have four new copper
washers. The filter should come with them, or you can buy them from the dealer. Wagner Brake
sells them as brake fitting copper washers, numbers F17 and F10775, at auto stores. There is a
copper washer on each side of both banjo fittings. They really aren't designed to be re-used (the
old ones work-harden and won't crush enough to make a seal) and four new washers should
have come with your new filter. If they didn't, try annealing the old ones. First, dress both
surfaces with a flat file, or fine sandpaper on a flat surface to remove ridges left from the banjo
fittings. Second, heat the washers to bright cherry red with a propane torch and let cool. This
step anneals the copper. Third, clean again with a file or fine sandpaper. When reinstalling,
don't get crud or rust-proofing material stuck between the copper washer and the fitting (this
crud usually isn't visible after installation).
Worst Case: Bolts Stuck; Fuel Line Breaks. [Tip from
Fisher] If you find that while working under the car, you
Fuel Pump Feed Line
absolutely cannot remove the corroded fuel filter bolts,
you can remove the lines to the engine and to the tank
which is easily done. You can then disconnect the fuel
pump wires and the whole cradle, pump and lines will
come right out. Now with the filter off the car, remove the lines at the filter. [Editor] If you break
the small connecting fuel feed line, get another one from an online retailer (e.g., FCPGroton) for
around $30.