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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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Blower Motor:<br />

2-3-3 Starting current too high, motor seizes or A<br />

turns sluggishly<br />

Power terminal incorrectly connected to<br />

12 V <strong>for</strong> the solenoids as follows:<br />

2-4-1 Water valve A<br />

2-4-2 Bi-level A<br />

2-4-3 Vent A<br />

2-4-4 Recirculation A<br />

2-4-5 Defroster A<br />

2-4-6 Floor A<br />

2-4-7 Maximum blower relay A<br />

2-4-8 Compressor A<br />

2-4-9 Blower relay (cars with air conditioning) A<br />

2-4-9 Engine cooling fan relay (cars without a/c) A<br />

Vacuum Servos:<br />

Panel Vent Stops Working Upon Acceleration.<br />

General Notes. [Inquiry:] My friend has a '94 960 and the air stops blowing from the vents while<br />

the car is accelerating (the a/c fan is still spinning but no air is coming out) when ever the car<br />

reaches a steady speed it starts blowing again. The same thing happened to me in an '90 760t<br />

and it turned out to be a hole in the vacuum line that goes to the vacuum reservoir. However I<br />

can't locate the reservoir in this car. Does anyone have any ideas?<br />

General Diagnostics. This is usually a result of a vacuum leak, whether it be an interior hose or<br />

servo motor, in the engine compartment, or at the vacuum reservoir. Find the vacuum line that<br />

goes to the vent diaphragm (vacuum bellows) under the dash behind the steering wheel. Uplug<br />

it and stick a vacuum gauge into the line using a "T". The vacuum should read engine vacuum<br />

at idle. Then accelerate the engine: if vacuum drops, your vacuum check valve may be bad. The<br />

vacuum gauge should keep a high vacuum reading when you accelerate. If the check valve and<br />

tubing under the hood are fine and the vacuum reading still drops, you have a leak under the<br />

dash, most likely one of the 4 bellows. The electronic solenoids and the vacuum reservoir

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