Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

● Volvo flywheel lock. You can also hold the crankshaft with a breaker bar and socket on
the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer on the front of the crank, or use the 5284
crankhold tool. This will let you loosen the flex plate bolts without the crank turning.
3. The parts you need are not too expensive. the new oil seal at NAPA was about $20 (I
found them cheaper at our local discount chain but they would have to be ordered) and
so I paid the $20. While you're under there with the tranny fluid drained, replace the fluid
and the the filter and the pan gasket (another $15 kit). I also replaced the front seal of the
tranny (pump seal) while I had it out. It was not leaking, that I could tell, but it, like the
engine oil seal is a bear to get to and so I did the tranny seal too while I was in there. All
together, I think I spent $50 on parts and fluid. Not sure if the $350 at the shop included
the parts or not. Also, make sure you know what model tranny you have before you go to
the parts store. Ours has a plate riveted on the side of the tranny on the drivers side I
bought tranny pump seals for both types and used the one that fit. It can be (was in my
case) a messy job. Even after draining the pan and the cooling lines, etc etc the tranny
dripped oil all over me and the floor the whole time I was under there. next time I'll be
prepared with a short length of fuel hose to cap the two nipples after I remove the lines
that run up to the radiator. My book talks about the "option" of removing the exhaust. I
took it off and had lots more room to work. I also completely removed the lines at the
tranny and at the radiator. not hard to do these 2 things and gives you lots more room.
The two top bolts that secure the tranny to the back of the engine block and the top
starter bolt are bears to get to. 18 mm. I had to drop the tranny crossmember at the rear
of the tranny/engine assembly down so that the angle would allow me access to those
bolts. Really tough: required a couple of long extensions to get the ratchet back far
enough to have room to use it. Support the engine with a jack stand or transmission jack.
After you get the tranny out, MARK THE FLEXPLATE ORIENTATION so you can reinstall
it correctly. When you finally get access to the back of the crank where the seal (and the
leak is), you will need a small hook tool (or similar) to get the old seal out of its housing.
The seal sits in a housing that you can take off if you need to (make sure your engine oil
seal comes with the gasket for this housing). I was able to get the old seal out without
taking off the housing. [Randy Starkie] The large rear main seals are easy to remove with
a screwdriver, as long as you don't scratch the surface of the crank that comes in contact
with the rear main seal. Insert the screwdriver so that the exposed back surface of the
crankshaft (the part that comes in contact with the flexplate)is the prying point. Get the
end of the screw driver up into the old seal and pry it out. Double check the surface of the
crank before inserting the new seal. I usually go over mine with light abrasive cloth and
check visually and with your finger for sharp edges. Lacquer thinner is helpful in removing
buildup and stray abrasive material before installation of the seal. Grease the inside of the
seal (but not the metal outside ring) and the crank with white lithium grease. Be careful
not to get the edge of the lip hung up on the crankend when getting the new seal started.
Get it started and then push the seal against the started edge to get the room you need to
get it started all the way around. Once the seal is on the surface of the crank ALL THE
WAY AROUND you you tap it into place evenly by working your way around the seal with
your striking tool. A 3/8 or 1/2 socket extension allows you to direct the contact on the
seal once it is started into place. [Chris] Don't push it in too far so that it slips out the back
side of the housing. If that happens, remove the housing and do it right again, using a
new housing gasket on reinstallation. Most oil seals that I've dealt with had lips in the