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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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gauge cluster from the car and brought it to them. I ended up fixing the jammed odometer <strong>for</strong><br />

less than 2 dollars. Here is how I did it:<br />

1. Remove the gauge cluster from the dashboard. Directions to remove the trim panel to<br />

access the screws holding the gauge cluster in place can be found in the 700\900 FAQ. If<br />

your car is a turbo I strongly suggest cutting the vacuum line to the boost gauge 3 to 4<br />

inches from where the tube connects to the rear of the gauge cluster. These small hoses<br />

harden over the years and I was terrified that I would break the hose nipple off trying to<br />

remove the vacuum tube. I went to the local parts house and purchased a package of<br />

barbed vacuum hose connectors <strong>for</strong> less than 2 bucks to reattach the cut hose. This way I<br />

did not have to worry about doing any expensive and troublesome damage to the boost<br />

gauge.<br />

2. Once the cluster has been removed locate the five or six screws that hold the clear bezel<br />

to the front of the gauge cluster. The screws that hold the bezel on are the biggest ones<br />

on the back of the cluster. If you try this please take a moment to study the panel be<strong>for</strong>e<br />

removing screws. In addition to removing the screws, you will have to unclip or detach a<br />

couple of small plastic parts around the edge of the cluster. I wish I could be more specific<br />

but it has been a while since I fixed mine. It is not difficult. You just want to take the time<br />

to be careful and attentive to details. Once the clear bezel has been removed, use the<br />

eraser end of a pencil, or some other object that will not scratch the number barrels of the<br />

odometer, to carefully advance the odometer past the point where it has stuck. See below<br />

if you need to replace the gear. Reassemble and drive happy.<br />

Replacing Odometer. I have found a solution: at the pick and pull I can get an instrument cluster<br />

<strong>for</strong> very cheap (10-25% of the repair estimates). I just unscrew 8 screws at the back of the board<br />

and remove the cowl and lens. Then take 4 screws out of the white speedo housing to pull it<br />

free. This can be transplanted easily into your recipient cluster and even a slightly different 1990<br />

model works well in the 86 cluster after removing the service reminder reset cable that the later<br />

ones come with. Who needs that function anyway? To reset the mileage to your correct (but by<br />

now estimated) figure is also trivial once you remove the small white electric motor that drives<br />

the odometer, and slide the pin holding the small exposed gears. The odometer digits now<br />

rotate freely. No cheating at this point. Most of the speed-odometers are the r9800 variant but<br />

compatibility is something to check <strong>for</strong> in the replacement. Apparently, this number keys it to the<br />

rear end properly. This is also a swell time to throw in a large tach if you can get one.<br />

Replacement Gears and Parts. Your odometer is mechanical. See http://www.odometergears.<br />

com/ <strong>for</strong> parts and supplies.[Another Tip] VDO in Winchester, VA, and other places advertise.<br />

Get a copy of Hemmings motor news, you will find them in there. [Editor] IPD now sells <strong>for</strong> $50 a<br />

complete odometer repair kit along with a DVD showing the repair procedure.<br />

Tachometer Failure. [Dan Ray] My tach sometimes registered zero at idle or would bounce<br />

around, always at idle. I pulled the instrument cluster, unscrewed the tach, cleaned the contacts<br />

with a spray electronics cleaner and shot a little silicon at moving parts. Next, I cleaned the<br />

mounting points to the circuit board. The mounting screws are the electical pathways from the

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