Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

the 92mm crankshaft. Insert this after the seal is installed to make sure the lips are not curled
under, since the Viton seal is much tighter than the silicone seal. Works like a champ. [John
Sargent] If you purchase a universal aftermarket kit, it may come with both the later lipped
rubber seal and a replacement for the earlier felt seal (soft white sponge like ring about 3/16"
thick) on B23 engines. DON'T install both as some have mistakenly done. Engine Rear Main Oil
Seal Replacement Tips [Tips: John Sargent ] The reason it is so expensive to replace the rear
main seal is that the transmission must be removed to access the rear of the crankshaft. See
the FAQ section on transmission replacement for more tips. To fix it yourself, you pull the
transmission and clutch/pressure plate assembly or the respective auto transmission parts. The
rear main seal is pressed into a seal housing. You remove this and press in a new seal. Then
you reinstall the seal housing with a new gasket. The seal and gasket are less than $20. When
you reinstall the seal over the crankshaft flange, you have to be sure that you don't push one
edge of the seal lip over. [Response: Randy] I'm assuming you have a transmission jack. I
purchased an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight because several people here at the
BrickBoard advised me NOT to try to use a floor jack. It was good advice. It really takes some
shaking and push/pulling to remove and install the transmission. My experience is with the 240
but you'll have the same type of situation with the 740. On the 240's it is a very tight fit between
the transmission and the sheetmetal in the area of the starter.
While you have it out it is a good time to replace the front seal on the transmission (readily
accessable once removed) as well as the rear seal and output shaft bushing if the bushing
hasn't been replaced yet (you'll need the gasket between the transmission and the rear housing
if you replace the bushing). There are various other seals on the transmission that can be
replaced at this time- look for fluid leaks.
The transmission cooling lines may not come off as you plan (rust and corrosion) and you may
need to cut those lines to remove the transmission. You can use a high quality hose and clamps
to save the cost of purchasing new lines.
Clean up the crankshaft with carb cleaner of something similiar to remove any build up before
installing the new mainseal. I packed the back of mine with grease and liberally greased the
crankshaft. Don't try to start it straight on when installing on the crank or you might cause the lip
of the seal to push out and the spring might come out of place. It would be a bummer to have a
brand new rear seal not do its job because the spring was dislodged. [Tips from Chris] Last
weekend I replaced (at home with no help) the rear main engine oil seal in my wife's B230F
auto. This board has been a great help to me over the time we've been Volvo owners. Here's
some of the things I learned during the job. (These are random notes, not a step by step........)
1. It's a common problem (leaking rear main). any local independent volvo shop will be wellversed
in doing the job. In NE florida the price for the job is about $350 (it's a big job,
really, so think long and hard about tackling this one yourself. About halfway through my
project I was wishing that I had had the shop do it. 4-6 hours of labor time in a shop).
2. Tools. You need the tools and a good space to work.
● 4 jackstands, a good floor jack, and a transmission jack. Don't neglect to make the work
area safe because you will be under the car for a while horsing on the tranny to get it in
and out. The regular full assortment of hand tools, including a ratchet set with 12mm and
up and an18 mm socket. Prybar & hammer Brake cleaner (for the plate and clutch faces)
Long extensions for the bell housing Air wrench Volvo clutch alignment tool( for manual
transmissions) Torque wrench