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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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● The outer air conditioning compressor belt requires two fixing nuts on the two curved<br />

mounting arms (one in front and one in back) to be loosened. Use a flashight to see them.<br />

These can be done from above, or below with the car on ramps and the plastic belly pan<br />

removed <strong>for</strong> easy access. The rear bolt can be difficult to reach: it is right in the middle of<br />

everything. Don't confuse it with the inboard mounting bolt near the engine block.<br />

Loosening the 10mm adjuster bolt and the bottom pivot bolt (easiest from below) then<br />

allows the unit to swing up after loosening the tensioner bolt (anti-clockwise to loosen).<br />

● The middle alternator requires two nuts to be loosened (not removed) other than the<br />

adjusting tensioner bolt. One is at the back of the long top fixing bolt; the other is at the<br />

bottom in front. The tensioner bolt is beneath on the side. Turn the tensioner screw<br />

counter-clockwise to move the unit toward the engine and loosen the belt. You should<br />

check the three rubber alternator bushings when you replace this belt. They can be<br />

pressed out and replaced by hand.<br />

● The inner power steering pump belt requires that you loosen the 13mm lock nut at the<br />

front of the power steering pump bracket (just above the pulley) and loosen the tensioner<br />

bolt (anti-clockwise to loosen). You may also need to loosen the nut and bolt through the<br />

bottom of the pump (best reached from below). To get enough slack to remove the belt,<br />

remove the bolt that tightens the pump against the adjustment bracket. WIth this bolt<br />

present, the pump will not move freely through the entire adjustment range. You will need<br />

to replace the bolt after you put the new belt on. If the pulley is misaligned, see the<br />

Steering section <strong>for</strong> in<strong>for</strong>mation about the pump bracket.<br />

● In the case of the compressor and power steering pulleys, you may need to lever the belt<br />

over the edge of the pulley to install it.<br />

Belt Tension. [Tips: Steve Ringlee/Jay Simkin] When you adjust the belt tension, take a look at<br />

how the adjuster mechanism works be<strong>for</strong>e you go at it. Loosen the 13mm or 12mm lock nuts on<br />

the belt side of the mechanism (two in the case of the compressor). This unlocks the alternator<br />

or compressor and allows you to adjust tension with the long 10mm bolt parallel to the belt. This<br />

latter bolt is only used to position the alternator. Once you have set belt tension (3/16 to 5/16<br />

inch or 5-10mm deflection) with the long bolt, lock the position with the 12 or 13mm bolt and<br />

back off a turn on the positioning bolt to unload it. Don't <strong>for</strong>get to lock the main nut/bolt or your<br />

belt tension will eventually fracture the adjusting bolt. [Paul Spasske] The Krikit 1 belt tension<br />

tool (available at NAPA online, part number NBHKR1, US$10) is useful to test belt tension.<br />

Contitech recommends the following drive belt tension settings<br />

<strong>for</strong> <strong>Volvo</strong> B2XX engines:<br />

● Narrow 11.9 mm belt used <strong>for</strong> alternator, power steering,<br />

and some air conditioning applications: New: 40kg; Used:<br />

25-30 kg after 50,000km in service<br />

● Wide 13 mm belt used <strong>for</strong> later (>1992) air conditioning<br />

applications: New: 55 kg; Used: 40-45 kg after 50,000km<br />

in service<br />

960 Serpentine Belt.<br />

Krikit Belt Tool <strong>for</strong> 15-70 kg<br />

tension range<br />

Changing the Belt. [Jim Bowers] Use a 3/4" square adapter in the tensioner hole to remove

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