Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

up through your hood one day. I would use the bump stop if at all possible. The spacer is really a shaped retainer washer that rests against a snap ring at bottom of strut tube. Some
after market shocks may use an additional spacer or a substitute spacer. The gland nut needs to be tightened to something in the neighborhood of 50 ft-lbs(more than a little tight, not
get-a-hernia tight) and a pipe wrench or large channel locks would work. [Response: Patrick Collins] The top cap on the strut cartridge tube will have several threads showing when
installed properly. I just finished replacing my factory original cartridges last night (the cartridges had "Volvo" stamped on them), and several threads were exposed before removal. As
a matter of fact, I had to soak the exposed threads with penetrant to remove the rust and dirt before removal. The cartridge was almost flush to the top of the strut tube, but not
perfectly flush. The main thing is to make sure the new cartridge does not have any play when inserted in the tube and the cap is run down. Also, be sure to re-grease the journal
bearings. Mine were in desperate need of grease.
Seized Strut Nut. [Tip from P. Dwyer] Assuming you've tried PBlaster/similar product, pipe wrench, long lever, etc., might I pass along my perennial suggestion: heat it up, then (and
here's the 'nutsy' part) TIGHTEN the nut, even just a few degrees: I hope you either hear a slight 'pop', or feel it, or both; then back the nut off. Not 100% sure-thing, but 99% ain't
shabby. Also, there is a thing called a nut splitter, a tool that slips over the nut and is then tightened until a knife-like edge splits the nut. And finally, you can try a hacksaw or similar
ploy. But whatever ya do, HAVE FUN, and wear safety goggles. [Tip from EPS] There is a way to remove these cartridges from the bottom of the strut housing, when the large nut at
the top of the strut housing will not move. Remove hub/strut/coil spring assembly from vehicle. Place on workbench and safely remove coil spring and top bearing pieces. Remove
strut cartridge from bottom of strut housing by first removing the lower ball joint from bottom of housing. Look into bottom and see circular snap-ring, lower support plate, and bottom
of strut cartridge. Remove circular snap-ring carefully, and support plate will drop out with strut cartridge. Then the top nut on strut housing can be removed. I cut four slots downward
with a hacksaw blade on the inner bore of nut at 0,90,180,270 degree positions. Be carefull that these slots are deep enough, but not deep enough into threads. Then hit the outside
diameter of the nut at one of these slots, this will crush the nut inward, and allow you to remove the rusted sob. Clean the inside threads on the strut housing well before installing
new cartridge and new nut. [Art Benstein] Damage can be caused by lack of counterhold for the gland nuts. In every case but one car, I've done the strut replacement on the bench,
electing to disconnect and later bleed the brakes. Then, I have the assembly on a plank and can use a big hammer on a spanner for the gland nut while
keeping the assembly on the ground with one boot. When I did the one car by leaning the struts out leaving the brake lines connected, it was fiddly to
keep the lines slack, but my impact technique on the gland nut was done with the strut resting on a wooden box. Reasonably I should have broken them
loose while still attached to the A-arm, but my previous success doing it on the floor left me without a thought of it. Also, I later looked at the Volvo
manual to see the ingenious S-hook used to support the strut in this on-the-car technique. Considering it later, I worry the damage would be to the rack Bench removal of gland nut
at the pinion, or even the column u-joints or steering lock, if excessive force or impact is used to free the gland nuts in place. An alternative might be using hook spanner
some large pipe wrench to counterhold against brute force.
960/90 Strut Replacement: Which Struts to Buy? [Jim E] We have two '95 960's. Mine has the OEM Volvo front struts, while my wife's has the Monroe
struts. The Monroe struts are slightly stiffer, but not harsh in comparison. Both pairs of struts are about 2 years old, but I'm thinking of switching to the
Monroes for the sportier ride. [John Roberson] I replaced both front struts with Monroe-car rides a lot better than on the OEM parts. The Monroes provide somewhat stiffer control and
flatter cornering.
Upper Strut Mount Bearings. While the upper strut mount does positively secure the strut regardless of the bearing condition, you can still experience a loose front end if the bearing
is loose or unlubricated. The bearing is positioned with a moderate slip fit on the rubber under the mount. [Inquiry:] After replacing struts, ball joints and all bushings, the front end still
feels loose. I've narrowed it down to the upper strut bearings. With a spring compressor, how big a job is this? [Response 1: Keith LaCrosse] Just replaced the struts and bearings in
the my 960 this morning. With the proper spring compressor it is not really that hard. I used the Volvo manual for the step by step procedure and it was not bad.
Sequence was to jack and support car, remove wheel, remove tierod end (use pickle fork), remove upper nut/bushing on swaybar, remove brake hose support Upper Strut
bracket, once that was all done support the assembly with a jack and loosen the upper bearing plate nuts. Once those were removed let the jack down and the Mount and
whole strut will lower from the housing. You will have to force the the strut assembly down to clear the fender well, once out it needs to have some suppport so it is Bearing
not flopping around. You then put on the spring compressor and compress the spring. Once that is done you can remove the large (15/16) nut on the sturt and
remove the upper bearing plate. Be careful on removal since the plastic bearing halves are only loosely assembled and you may end up with balls all over your
garage. Once removed, give it a good soaking and cleanup to remove the grit and old grease, then repack it with a good grade of wheel bearing grease and snap the plastic cover
back on. Assembly is, as they say, the reverse.
Hints I learned: Loosen the large 15/16 nut before you have the strut assembly out, be careful not to loosen the nut to much or the spring will explode with some force (I only did that
once a long time ago)
If you are going to remove the strut also I reach up between the coils of the spring and loosen the 55mm or so nut that holds the strut in the tube. [Editor] See the Strut section for
more details and torque values. Note that strut mounts (not the bearings) are directional and have left/right orientations. [Editor] Anecdotal evidence seems to indicate that Scantech
strut mounts are of awful quality: go OEM.