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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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the block or the cylinder wall. Remove intake or exhaust manifold <strong>for</strong> better access. Drill a hole in the center of<br />

the plug. Using a slide hammer mounted in the hole, pull the freeze plug off. Do not use a punch and hammer:<br />

you risk damaging the flange. For in<strong>for</strong>mation about installing an engine block heater in one of the freeze plug<br />

holes, see the FAQ section.<br />

Other:<br />

Oil Pan Gasket Replacement. [Inquiry] My oil pan is leaking oil: how can I change the gasket? [Fitz Fitzgerald]<br />

Try tightening the pan bolts first. I've had great success in fixing leaky oil pans and transmissions just by<br />

tightening the pan bolts. I personally use a bit of RTV gasket sealer on the pan bolts (oil pan, transmission pan,<br />

and valve cover gasket) to keep them from slowly backing out due to heat and vibration. LockTite is too strong<br />

to be used here, but RTV works perfectly. Cleaning your flame trap and breather box are also advised since it<br />

will lower the crankcase pressure and decrease the oil's "desire" to escape under pressure. If you still need to<br />

change the pan gasket, see the FAQ link.<br />

Accessory Mounting Bushings. [John Sargent] To replace your accessory mounting bushings, you can use<br />

OEM rubber or harder polyurethane that does not compress over time. The power steering pump doesn't use<br />

them, but you will need four <strong>for</strong> the A/C compressor and three <strong>for</strong> the alternator. Total of seven. [Editor] The<br />

IPD poly bushings are of superb quality; others have failed rapidly from poor materials.<br />

Alternator: See the FAQ notes<br />

Air Conditioning Compressor: Remove the splash pan. De-tension the belt. From beneath the car, remove the<br />

mounting bolts. Replace the four bushings and reassemble. The lower rear bushing can be almost impossible<br />

to remove due to pipes off the back of the compressor and you might ignore it. Belt tension is 1/4 inch<br />

deflection under moderate finger pressure.<br />

Accessory Pulley Removal. [Editor] To remove the pulleys on power accessories when installing<br />

replacements units:<br />

Alternator. Use an air or electric impact gun to remove the center bolt, then slide the pulley off. Many auto<br />

stores (e.g., Autozone) will do this <strong>for</strong> you when buying a replacement alternator. Pounding is not good because<br />

you are likely to bend the pulley.<br />

Power Steering Pump. This pulley is a press fit onto the shaft and is very, very tight. Pounding or trying to use a<br />

gear puller will almost certainly bend the thin sheetmetal pulley. Either have a shop or the store do this, or buy a<br />

special power steering pulley removal kit at an auto parts store (~US$10-$50) which has adapters to pull the<br />

pulley off the shaft without bending it. Harbor Freight has a cheap kit; Lisle Tools makes a high quality version.<br />

Air Intake Box Latch Repair. [Tips from Kerry] I finally repaired my air box after the last OEM<br />

latch broke off. The repair worked great! (I just couldn't bring myself to use a huge wire tie). I<br />

used 4 latches. I should have ordered 5 or 6. The parts I used were ordered from McMaster

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