Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

equires a removal of the entire panel. The lower trim screws are self explanatory, but how does
one completely release the upper part? [Response:] This entire assembly has fragile plastic
parts. See the section Removing/Repairing Tailgate Panel for complete instructions and for a
discussion of a repair kit for loose fasteners.
Rear Tailgate Latch Won't Open.
Lubrication Problems. The problem with the latch is that it takes a lot of moisture from the
backdraft. The problem is likely one of two things. In either case you need to remove the back
inner panel. carefully remove the rods that connect the electric lock piston (small plastic clip
slides sideways) to the outer handle mechanism, and the rod that goes to the lower latch. Now
remove the four 12mm nuts that hold the handle from the inside and pull the handle out (you'll
need to disconnect the wires for your license plate lights. Now pull the rubber protective seal off
the back. Generously lubricate the handle and make sure it's free to return to it's outward resting
position, if it stays depressed after you close the gate, the lock will not respond to the electric
lock mechanism. while you have it apart, lube the pivoting metal part on the handle to which the
electric lock is connected. Reinstall it all and you're all set. I would also consider taking apart the
rod that goes through the rear window for your rear wiper. They need greasing every two years
or they seize and fry the wiper motor.
Broken Pieces or Stuck Mechanism.
Stuck Due to Cold. [Tom Kaylor] The internal mechanism sometimes sticks from winter cold.
Push the outside latch handle all the way forward, then operate the central door locks several
times. If the outside latch handle is not returning the mechanism won't engage. Free it up with
good penetrating oil.
Broken or Stuck Parts.[John Randle] The symptom was that the latch would operate .. but not
far enough to release the locking mechanism so that the tail gate could open. It turned out that a
piece of the black plastic guard that goes around the latch had broken off ( old age) and lodged
under the latch ... I had to remove the trim panel and then disconnect the exterior latch actuator
rod as well as the exterior key lock actuator rod inside the tail gate from the latch mechanism.
Next I used a 12mm socket with a universal joint to remove two of the 4 bolts holding the latch
mechanism to the tail gate and then I used a 12mm offset box wrench to remove the other two
bolts. Once that was accomplished I was able to push the tail gate out enough to force the latch
open with a common screw driver (compressing the piece of plastic that was lodged in the
mechanism) and completely open the tail gate and then remove the latch ... where I then found
the stray piece of plastic. Reassembly was straight forward. [Becky Gilbert] Problem: rear
tailgate won't latch. You hear the sound of metal meeting metal. The latch has turned too far
and is no longer in an open position to accept the bar at the bottom of the rear of the car.
Solution: WD-40 and a screwdriver. It takes me a little while to remember which side opens: the
hinge is shaped like a C and opens to the right. A little coaxing from inside the right end of the
hinge loosens the stuck part and it opens up nicely!! Easy fix and no taking apart of the tailgate!
Loose Rear Latch Handle; Lock Adjustment. [Eric Carlson] Neither the power lock nor the key
would unlock my tailgate hatch. Occasionally, I was able to jiggle the lock enough with the key
to unlock it, but as soon as I shut the hatch again, it wouldn't unlock. I discovered that the latch
handle has to be in the fully returned position (i.e. completely pushed forward towards the hatch)