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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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smaller nut. The big nut is actually not a nut at all. It is a threaded flange<br />

with hex sides. It does not turn. If it turns, you have ruined the pan. I<br />

place a relatively large crescent wrench (open end adjustable wrench) on<br />

the filler tube "flange nut," with the end of the wrench pointed toward the<br />

rear of the car. If you orient the wrench jaws correctly, you can brace its<br />

handle on the flange of the transmission pan (the flange where the gasket<br />

is located). It' a tight fit, but it works. I then use a smaller crescent wrench<br />

to turn the small nut ccw. The first wrench prevents excessive torque from Using a Block and Jack to Help Remove the Fill Tube Nut<br />

being applied to the filler tube flange where it enters pan. I sometimes<br />

need to use a breaker bar (steel pipe with one end flattened to fit over the<br />

wrench handle) with the small wrench to generate some extra torque.<br />

● Use heat from a hot air gun or a torch (flammable! caution!) if needed.<br />

● See the photo <strong>for</strong> a tip from Tom F. to gain more leverage. "To remove<br />

the filler tube, I wedged a 4X4 betwixt a crescent wrench and the frame<br />

then used a small jack to encourage the filler tube nut to turn. It fought<br />

back all the way. The last three turns took two of us pulling the wrench<br />

using a bar through the combination wrench’s closed end."<br />

● If you cannot remove the nut without destroying either nut or pan, you can still pull the pan with the tube installed by removing the<br />

two starter bolts that hold the fill tube. It is not essential to be able to remove the fill tube. If these are seized, then you should call it a<br />

day and <strong>for</strong>get the entire procedure.<br />

● On reinstalling the fill tube, make sure you use antiseize to prevent this from happening in the future.<br />

Kick-Down Cable Adjustment.<br />

Function of Kickdown Cable. [Discussion from Abe Crombie] The kickdown cable is used to regulate a pressure in the transmission valve<br />

body. This is called throttle pressure. The throttle pressure is effectively a pressure that "tells" shift valves in transmission how hard you are<br />

pushing the throttle and these shift valves now have a contest to see if governor pressure or throttle pressure is going to win. This pressure<br />

is also used to apply the clutches/brakes that engage a gear and the higher pressure goes along with higher engine power at higher<br />

throttle. Firmer shifts are a result of higher throttle pressure. If throttle pressure wins the contest the trans remains in lower gear, if<br />

governor pressure wins the trans upshifts. Governor pressure is directly related to driveshaft, and thus road speed. If you tighten cable<br />

you increase throttle pressure and the whole shift point/road speed "map" goes higher. If you loosen cable the shift point map moves<br />

lower. The trans throttle cable (kickdown cable) also depresses a valve if you (or the throttle spool) pull the cable all the way out past that<br />

hard spot which is a detent to make you aware of the actual kickdown feature. The kickdown valve increases the throttle pressure<br />

drastically above the linear rate that you get from the rest of the throttle pedal travel range and makes the gearbox goes to lowest possible<br />

gear allowed at the road speed you are at when you activate it.<br />

Adjustment of Cable. The kickdown cable has no adjustment at the transmission end, it's fixed. All the adjustment is under the hood, at the

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