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Volvo Maintenance Hints for 7xx/9xx - Bill Garland's Nuclear ...

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● remove the wheel, replace the lug nuts back on the bolts <strong>for</strong> a couple of turns (so the top of the bolt<br />

doesn't show through the nut) and tap the head of the nut swinging towards the car. Ddon't use a<br />

hammer on the pad-area rotor. You can medium-tap the circumference of the center portion of the<br />

rotor as you spin it, also. It takes patience (My 1985 BMW 325es rears took me 2 hours). Editor's<br />

note: use a soft-faced mallet.<br />

2. If you DO plan on changing the rotors:<br />

Follow the steps above, but with increasing <strong>for</strong>ce. If it is STILL stuck, crawl under the car (which must<br />

be properly on jack stands), face outward and spin the rotor while WAILING on the outside edge of the<br />

rotor with a mallet/hammer (outwards). It WILL eventually come loose.<br />

Just try not to have any part of your body under the rotor when it pops off (usually you can tell it's about to<br />

go). Editor's note: use a thin coat of anti-seize on mating surfaces between hub and rotor to easy later<br />

disassembly.<br />

Brake Rotor Installation Techniques to Minimize Pulsation.<br />

[Editor's Note] Per the <strong>Volvo</strong> manual, match the balance mark on the rotor (a short line at one spot on the<br />

hub portion of the rotor) with the balance mark on the hub, a short line on the shoulder of the hub bearing<br />

cover. Look closely through the rust: it's there! This matches the rotor and hub and minimizes runout. Make<br />

sure you have removed all rust from the portion of the hub that contacts the rotor.<br />

[Tech Tip from Wagner Brake] If the balance lines are not present or are invisible when replacing or<br />

removing the rotor, refer to the following service procedure to minimizes hub/rotor "stacked" runout:<br />

1. Completely clean the hub area contacting the new/turned rotor.<br />

2. Install the rotor on the hub, securing it with at least three lug nuts tightened to 20 lb. ft. (27 N-m) <strong>for</strong><br />

testing.<br />

3. Using a dial indicator, determine the total runout of the system. The total rotor and hub runout must not<br />

exceed .002" (.05mm).<br />

4. If the runout exceeds .002", proceed as follows:<br />

❍ Remove the rotor and rotate it clockwise until the next hole lines up with a stud;<br />

❍ Secure the rotor in the new position, reindexed as described in Step 2; and<br />

❍ Repeat the checking and rotation (reindexing process) until the system measures .002" or less<br />

total runout.<br />

5. If .002" (.05mm) or less runout cannot be reached, the hub should be replaced and Steps 2 through 4<br />

repeated when the new hub/rotor is installed.<br />

Make sure you reinstall the wheel lug nuts with proper torque values.<br />

Rotor Turning and Torque.<br />

Should I Turn My Rotors? <strong>Volvo</strong> does not support or advise re-machining of brake rotors, ever. If you look at<br />

the machines most shops use to do this work they decide where to clamp the rotor down by eye-ball. When it<br />

goes back on the car it is usually worse than when you started. And when you get new rotors - DO NOT let<br />

anyone turn them be<strong>for</strong>e installation in order to "true them up". They are new, and in the best condition they<br />

will ever be in. Don't let anyone screw them up be<strong>for</strong>e you ever use them. If your turned rotors are pulsating,<br />

I suggest you throw them away and start over with a new set.

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