The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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Conclusion: Stepping Out 1. Methodology 313 2. Historiography 316 3. Conclusion 318 Bibliography Manuscript sources Petitions and Acts Laws and Statutes Parliamentary Papers Acts, Arrests and Sentences Printed primary sources Reviews and Journals Catalogues Directories Boot and shoe Collections Secondary sources Research aids Unpublished theses and papers 320 326 329 329 331 332 339 340 340 340 341 372 373
List of Tables 1.1 - Number of licensed leather producers in England and Wales, 1808-1818 1.2 - Comparative analysis of the capital insured by tanners, dressers and shoemakers in 1770s 1.3 - Major leather trades in England in 1811 1.4— Major Parisian exports, 18 19-1820 1.5 - Value of leather sold in Paris, 1765-1774 1.6 - Different types of leather sold at the Bureau de Cuirs, 1765-1770 1.7 - Estimated number of hides and skins used by leather manufacturers in England and Wales, 1750-1850 1.8 - Livestock in France and Britain in 1806 1.9 - Cattle brought for sale at Smithfield market, 1801-1851 1.10— Import of raw leather into France, 1787-1789 1.11 - The tax system on leather as established in France in 1759 1.12— Other taxes on leather in France after 1759 1.13—French tanneries in 1759 and 1775 2.1 - The Parisian Compagnie des Cordonniers in the early eighteenth century 2.2 - Places of origin of London Cordwainers' apprentices 2.3 - Selected occupations of London Cordwainers' apprentices' fathers 3.1 - Gregory King's estimates for the consumption of footwear 3.2 - British leather manufacture export, 1763-1778 and 1797-1805 3.3 - Types of boots and shoes in the Art de la chaussure (1824) 4.1 - Shoe shops in England in 1822 and 1834 4.2 - Specialisation in boot and shoe retailing in London, 1730-1850 4.3 - Customers of William Edwards, boot and shoemaker in Fleet Street, 1829 4.4 - Value of James William's shoe shop in 1829 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot and shoemaker in Coventry Street, c. 1750 5.1 - Probate inventory of Richard Lush, 1716 5.2 - Insurance by London shoemakers, 1775-1787 5.3 - Distribution of policy values for ten London trades in the 1780s 5.4 - London shoemakers' insurance value in the 1770s and 1820s 5.5 - Prices at the 'Boot and Slipper', Northampton, 1764 5.6 - Prices of shoes in the 1750s and 1760s 5.7 - John Denton Penn and Edwin Penn's trade debts in 1839 xi page 28 28 29 32 32 34 34 35 38 41 46 47 48 61 70 71 96 106 117 180 184 186 189 192 210 212 212 213 215 222 237
Page 1 and 2: Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
Page 3 and 4: "A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
Page 5 and 6: This research would have not been c
Page 7 and 8: Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
Page 9: Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
Page 13 and 14: List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
Page 15 and 16: List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
Page 17 and 18: 6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
Page 19 and 20: These are the theoretical reasons t
Page 21 and 22: concentrate on recent changes in th
Page 23 and 24: The use of the micro-analytic appro
Page 25 and 26: production are examined. The eighte
Page 27 and 28: industrial period. If we consider t
Page 29 and 30: inventories for the period 1788 to
Page 31 and 32: In the London Company the dissociat
Page 33 and 34: typology of products and producers,
Page 35 and 36: not yet completely mechanised) proc
Page 37 and 38: Part I of this thesis highlights th
Page 39 and 40: 1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
Page 41 and 42: E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
Page 43 and 44: a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
Page 45 and 46: were tanning, currying and oil dres
Page 47 and 48: important centre for tanning and cu
Page 49 and 50: 1/3 of the total export of French l
Page 51 and 52: Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
Page 53 and 54: England. These numbers, however, ha
Page 55 and 56: 1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
Page 57 and 58: dark colour of the leather produced
Page 59 and 60: 60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
Page 61 and 62:
'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
Page 63 and 64:
National leather market, abolishing
Page 65 and 66:
leather. After the hide had been tr
Page 67 and 68:
the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
Page 71 and 72:
gave substantial financial aid to t
Page 73 and 74:
Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
Page 75 and 76:
through technological and organisat
Page 77 and 78:
saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
Page 81 and 82:
models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
Page 85 and 86:
900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
Page 91 and 92:
eality life in the master's househo
Page 93 and 94:
their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
Page 97 and 98:
very low. In London a particular pr
Page 99 and 100:
masters to employ journeymen who ha
Page 101 and 102:
trade. It was also the formal recog
Page 103 and 104:
inside the family business.' 17 Wom
Page 105 and 106:
influence of new forces of change.'
Page 107 and 108:
The purpose of part II of my thesis
Page 109 and 110:
Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
Page 111 and 112:
theme of standardisation and its re
Page 113 and 114:
Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
Page 115 and 116:
In the case of boots and shoes the
Page 117 and 118:
limited, not in number but in value
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places like Petticoat Lane that, as
Page 121 and 122:
with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
Page 125 and 126:
should not think that ready-made sh
Page 127 and 128:
Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
Page 129 and 130:
-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
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120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
Page 133 and 134:
As we will see in detail in the fol
Page 135 and 136:
What can appear to us particularly
Page 137 and 138:
C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
Page 139 and 140:
According to Jean Morin, women's st
Page 141 and 142:
Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
Page 143 and 144:
Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
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will be going home on horseback".'
Page 147 and 148:
Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
Page 149 and 150:
Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
Page 151 and 152:
Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
Page 153 and 154:
Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
Page 155 and 156:
silver and gold acquired from buckl
Page 157 and 158:
Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
Page 159 and 160:
One of the missing points in the di
Page 161 and 162:
However French fashion became domin
Page 163 and 164:
II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
Page 165 and 166:
Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
Page 167 and 168:
Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
Page 169 and 170:
to be imposed "as being greatly con
Page 171 and 172:
Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
Page 173 and 174:
Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
Page 175 and 176:
production.'° Symptomatic are the
Page 177 and 178:
Moreover the expanding transoceanic
Page 179 and 180:
Forty years later (circa 1760s and
Page 181 and 182:
Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
Page 183 and 184:
illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
Page 185 and 186:
These new retailing systems were as
Page 187 and 188:
Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
Page 189 and 190:
4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
Page 191 and 192:
Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
Page 193 and 194:
Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
Page 195 and 196:
Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
Page 197 and 198:
Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
Page 199 and 200:
Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
Page 201 and 202:
Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
Page 203 and 204:
unning a small business, he had not
Page 205 and 206:
Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
Page 207 and 208:
V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
Page 209 and 210:
Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
Page 211 and 212:
Sir, We have this day received a le
Page 213 and 214:
300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
Page 215 and 216:
A series of letters had to be excha
Page 217 and 218:
Corrections to the Account books as
Page 219 and 220:
Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
Page 221 and 222:
century and follow a well-establish
Page 223 and 224:
evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
Page 225 and 226:
show how the sector was neither sta
Page 227 and 228:
a business carried out on a large s
Page 229 and 230:
Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
Page 231 and 232:
century, cordwainers represented in
Page 233 and 234:
In the course of the century there
Page 235 and 236:
Masters had to control journeymen i
Page 237 and 238:
5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
Page 239 and 240:
The most important information prov
Page 241 and 242:
= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
Page 243 and 244:
Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
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one shop. For the high-class shop i
Page 247 and 248:
E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
Page 249 and 250:
expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
Page 251 and 252:
shoemakers who produced the entire
Page 253 and 254:
Newgate Street in London for the "s
Page 255 and 256:
estricted to only nine London shoem
Page 257 and 258:
homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
Page 259 and 260:
otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
Page 261 and 262:
improved by the Leicestershire shoe
Page 263 and 264:
important changes in productive pro
Page 265 and 266:
Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
Page 267 and 268:
Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
Page 269 and 270:
Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
Page 271 and 272:
The increase in shoe importation in
Page 273 and 274:
St. James's in the London West End,
Page 275 and 276:
As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
Page 278 and 279:
In such a situation a long series o
Page 280 and 281:
the more traditional productive env
Page 282 and 283:
The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
Page 284 and 285:
V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
Page 286 and 287:
IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
Page 288 and 289:
journeymen shoemakers also had to f
Page 290 and 291:
the manufacture of English sole lea
Page 292 and 293:
This analysis shows a new perspecti
Page 294 and 295:
Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
Page 296 and 297:
Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
Page 298 and 299:
The real or apparent difference bet
Page 300 and 301:
Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
Page 302 and 303:
These changes rendered more difficu
Page 304 and 305:
6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
Page 306 and 307:
6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
Page 308 and 309:
Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
Page 310 and 311:
evolution' has presented new questi
Page 312 and 313:
The separation of production and re
Page 314 and 315:
French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
Page 316 and 317:
eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
Page 318 and 319:
espoke production was a widespread
Page 320 and 321:
6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
Page 322 and 323:
90 per cent of the men employed in
Page 324 and 325:
0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
Page 326 and 327:
compared to other European states a
Page 328 and 329:
underlined: many Parisian manufactu
Page 330 and 331:
1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
Page 332 and 333:
integrating economic rationality, s
Page 334 and 335:
extensive literature on guilds in F
Page 336 and 337:
Bibliography
Page 338 and 339:
. DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
Page 340 and 341:
1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
Page 342 and 343:
Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
Page 344 and 345:
Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
Page 346 and 347:
Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
Page 348 and 349:
micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
Page 350 and 351:
cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
Page 352 and 353:
• Exposition publique des produit
Page 354 and 355:
• Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
Page 356 and 357:
cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
Page 358 and 359:
Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
Page 360 and 361:
• M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
Page 362 and 363:
politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
Page 364 and 365:
Deindustrialization and reindustria
Page 366 and 367:
Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
Page 368 and 369:
• A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
Page 370 and 371:
• D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
Page 372 and 373:
• V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
Page 374 and 375:
• L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
Page 376 and 377:
• E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
Page 378 and 379:
commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
Page 380 and 381:
• A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
Page 382 and 383:
elations from the beginning of the
Page 384 and 385:
• C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
Page 386 and 387:
pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
Page 388 and 389:
(Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
Page 390 and 391:
• A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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