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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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very low. In <strong>London</strong> a particular problem was <strong>the</strong> practice of curriers cutt<strong>in</strong>g<br />

lea<strong>the</strong>r hides to sell small pieces to 'middl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> poorer' shoemakers. 87 In <strong>Paris</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> problems caused by small shoemakers work<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> cellars <strong>and</strong> garrets had<br />

already created several compla<strong>in</strong>ts <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Compagnie <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> second quarter of<br />

<strong>the</strong> seventeenth century. <strong>The</strong> argument underl<strong>in</strong>ed how <strong>Paris</strong>ian curriers were<br />

not respect<strong>in</strong>g a law imposed on <strong>the</strong>m to buy all lea<strong>the</strong>r from <strong>the</strong> Halle aux<br />

Cuirs. <strong>The</strong>y were us<strong>in</strong>g façoniers (middlemen) to buy lea<strong>the</strong>r from <strong>the</strong> prov<strong>in</strong>ces<br />

<strong>and</strong> sell it <strong>in</strong> pieces (without any stamp) to small shoemakers.88<br />

2.6.1 <strong>The</strong> workforce <strong>in</strong> <strong>London</strong><br />

Accord<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> Commons enquiry of 1738, <strong>in</strong> <strong>London</strong> <strong>the</strong>re were less than<br />

five hundred shoemakers - most of <strong>the</strong>m masters <strong>and</strong> members of <strong>the</strong><br />

Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers' Company - who could afford <strong>the</strong> £10 price of an entire hide.89<br />

Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> first decades of <strong>the</strong> eighteenth century, curriers started sell<strong>in</strong>g small<br />

pieces of lea<strong>the</strong>r for as little as two shill<strong>in</strong>gs, enabl<strong>in</strong>g journeymen to buy <strong>the</strong><br />

exact quantity needed to produce a pair of shoes for <strong>the</strong> market on <strong>the</strong>ir own<br />

account, <strong>in</strong>stead of work<strong>in</strong>g for a master who provided <strong>the</strong>ir lea<strong>the</strong>r. 9° With <strong>the</strong><br />

profit from just a couple of pairs of shoes or boots journeymen were able to<br />

susta<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir family <strong>and</strong> buy ano<strong>the</strong>r two shill<strong>in</strong>gs-worth of lea<strong>the</strong>r.9'<br />

Unsurpris<strong>in</strong>gly, large shoemakers opposed - with <strong>the</strong> help of <strong>the</strong> Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers'<br />

company - 92 <strong>the</strong> creation of a small shoemakers' market <strong>in</strong> order to avoid<br />

competition <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> diversion of labour from <strong>the</strong> 'virtuous trade'. 93 In 1738 <strong>the</strong><br />

87 GL, MS 7,360: Worshipful Company of Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers, 'Trade Records - Orig<strong>in</strong>al<br />

petitions...'. See also <strong>The</strong> Case of <strong>the</strong> middl<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> poorer sort of master shoe-makers: humbly<br />

set forth to <strong>the</strong> Honourable <strong>the</strong> House of Commons (<strong>London</strong>, 1738).<br />

88 AN, F' 2 1464, MS 3: 'Motif des dispositions de chacune des articles du project de<br />

reglement'.<br />

89 Commons Journals, 23 (3" May 1738), pp. 176-7.<br />

9° GL, MS 24,963: Worshipful Company of Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers, cit.; R. Campbell, <strong>The</strong> complete<br />

tradesman, cit., p. 217.<br />

' GL, MS 7,353: Worshipful Company of Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers, cit., vol. IV, if. 108-9; J. Rule, <strong>The</strong><br />

experience of Labour, cit., p. 34.<br />

2 GL, MS 7,361: Worshipful Company of Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers, cit., if. 17-42. Help was asked by <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>London</strong> Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers' company to various prov<strong>in</strong>cial guilds <strong>and</strong> societies of Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers to<br />

support <strong>the</strong>ir petition to Parliament. Many prov<strong>in</strong>cial groups, however, did not support <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>London</strong> Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers' company.<br />

C.H. Waterl<strong>and</strong> M<strong>and</strong>er, A descriptive <strong>and</strong> historical account, cit., pp. 89-90. In eighteenth-<br />

80

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