The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 200/o I 0% 0% Figure 6.4 - Destinations of French export leather manufacture, 1830-1865 (in percentage) 1830-34 1835-39 1840-44 1845-49 1850-54 1855-59 1860-65 0 Other countries 0 Chile and Peru 0 italy, Belgium and Holland and Switzerland 0 Italy • Switzerland 0 Belgium and Holland DAlgena •Guadalupe, Martinique, Rio de Plata, Haiti and Cuba •Brazil • United States • England Source: Imports and exports of France (36 vols.: 1829-1865). 259
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Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
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"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
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This research would have not been c
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Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
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Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
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List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
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List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
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List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
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6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
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These are the theoretical reasons t
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concentrate on recent changes in th
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The use of the micro-analytic appro
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production are examined. The eighte
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industrial period. If we consider t
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inventories for the period 1788 to
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In the London Company the dissociat
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typology of products and producers,
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not yet completely mechanised) proc
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Part I of this thesis highlights th
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1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
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E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
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a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
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were tanning, currying and oil dres
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important centre for tanning and cu
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1/3 of the total export of French l
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Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
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England. These numbers, however, ha
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1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
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dark colour of the leather produced
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60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
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'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
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National leather market, abolishing
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leather. After the hide had been tr
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the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
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very low. In London a particular pr
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masters to employ journeymen who ha
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trade. It was also the formal recog
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inside the family business.' 17 Wom
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influence of new forces of change.'
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The purpose of part II of my thesis
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Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
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theme of standardisation and its re
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Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
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In the case of boots and shoes the
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limited, not in number but in value
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places like Petticoat Lane that, as
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with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
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should not think that ready-made sh
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Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
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-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
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120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
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As we will see in detail in the fol
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What can appear to us particularly
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C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
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According to Jean Morin, women's st
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Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
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Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
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will be going home on horseback".'
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Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
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Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
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Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
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Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
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silver and gold acquired from buckl
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Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
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One of the missing points in the di
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However French fashion became domin
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II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
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Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
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Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
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to be imposed "as being greatly con
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Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
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Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
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production.'° Symptomatic are the
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Moreover the expanding transoceanic
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Forty years later (circa 1760s and
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Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
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illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
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These new retailing systems were as
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Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
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4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
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Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
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Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
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Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
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Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
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Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
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Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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unning a small business, he had not
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Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
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V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
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Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
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Sir, We have this day received a le
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300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
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A series of letters had to be excha
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Corrections to the Account books as
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Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
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century and follow a well-establish
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evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
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Page 229 and 230: Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
Page 231 and 232: century, cordwainers represented in
Page 233 and 234: In the course of the century there
Page 235 and 236: Masters had to control journeymen i
Page 237 and 238: 5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
Page 239 and 240: The most important information prov
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Page 243 and 244: Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
Page 245 and 246: one shop. For the high-class shop i
Page 247 and 248: E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
Page 249 and 250: expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
Page 251 and 252: shoemakers who produced the entire
Page 253 and 254: Newgate Street in London for the "s
Page 255 and 256: estricted to only nine London shoem
Page 257 and 258: homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
Page 259 and 260: otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
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Page 263 and 264: important changes in productive pro
Page 265 and 266: Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
Page 267 and 268: Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
Page 269 and 270: Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
Page 271 and 272: The increase in shoe importation in
Page 273 and 274: St. James's in the London West End,
Page 275: As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
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Page 281 and 282: Map 6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in Lo
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Page 285 and 286: Table 6.4 presents a similar analys
Page 287 and 288: 6.5.2 The misleading role of labour
Page 289 and 290: Immediately after the reduction of
Page 291 and 292: Le corroyage, c 'est-à -dire, 1 'a
Page 293 and 294: especially female shoes, were chara
Page 295 and 296: French producers were therefore ver
Page 297 and 298: Illustration 6.3— Set of four pai
Page 299 and 300: Illustration 6.4 - Left vs. right,
Page 301 and 302: The production was "much cheaper in
Page 303 and 304: Illustration 6.6 - Lady's shoe prod
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Page 309 and 310: development of the French economy d
Page 311 and 312: urban retailers. 9 It is not uncomm
Page 313 and 314: Pères (later also in London in Reg
Page 315 and 316: d'être déjà si diverses par la g
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Page 319 and 320: Arr. Table 7.2 - Shoemakers in Pari
Page 321 and 322: In the ready-made branch more than
Page 323 and 324: Table 7.4 - Workforce in four trade
Page 325 and 326: The structure of the sector was sti
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conditions during the second half o
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the similarity of the ancient regim
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A second point that has to be clari
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2. Historiography As well as using
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3. Conclusion This thesis does not
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Manuscript Sources Archives de Pari
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British Library - Manuscripts Colle
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. BIPe1: Peal & Co. Manuscripts, 'G
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citizen and pattenmaker, 1703. •
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may be tann 'd and dress 'd in Nort
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17.81. • Command Papers - Account
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• Ordonnances, reglement et table
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• De la condition des ouvriers de
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(London: Curtis, 1829). 'Low-life,
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du parlement, sentences de police d
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Catalogues • Catalogue of photogr
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• D. Bamett, London, hub of the i
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. E. Bordoli, Footwear down the age
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Nicolson, 1986). • S. Chapman, 'T
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• D.C. Coleman and C. MacLeod, 'A
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• V. De Grazia and E. Furlough, e
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• J.R. Farr, 'On the shop floor:
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University Press, 1967), vol. ii.
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French Historical Studies XXffl —
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• T. Kemp, Economic forces in Fre
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• S. Liewellyn, "A List of ye War
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• S.I. Mitchell, 'Retailing in ei
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(Cambridge: Cambridge University Pr
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• R.C. Richie, 'London and the pr
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Company Limited Leicester, c. 1930)
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Economic History, LVII - 1(1997), p
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• L. Weatherill, 'Consumer behavi
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• A. Federer, 'Payment, credit an
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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