The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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200 400 350 300 ' 250 200 ISO 100 50 0 Figure 5.4 - John Edwards - Monthly average sale of shoes, 1751-1757 I80 I 160 --___________________ 140 - -- -----_______ - ___________ 120 100 g 8() 60 9 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Std Dcv 42.24 58.53 100.63 56.44 58.01 92.97 32.33 71.11 58.85 41.67 63.01 73.68 Source: PRO, C 106/120. Figure 5.5 - John Edwards - Types of shoes produced, 1751-1757 Source: PRO, C 106/120. \\ erac 75-57) 221 0 Women's Pumps o Men's shoes • Men's pumps • Single Channel O Brown rans 0 Shoes o Double Channel • women's shoes o Boys shoes
The most important information provided by these documents is the restricted number of models Edwards was producing. Women's pumps, men's shoes, men's pumps and single channel shoes provided the bulk of his production (fig. 5.5). Again we can suppose that he sent several pairs of shoes of each size, although sizes are not mentioned in his accounts. These shoes were produced for the ready-to-wear market of the metropolis. They provided 'buffers': basic footwear produced in short periods and at low prices. Table 5.6 provides a synthetic analysis of the prices charged by John Edwards on shoes sent to London. These prices are about 20 per cent lower than retail prices both in London and in Northampton, which at the time were the two largest shoemaking markets. These shoes could be retailed with a good profit margin in the capital and were cheaper than those manufactured in Northampton. Women's pumps Men's shoes Men's pumps Single channel Brown rounds Double channel Women's shoes Turned pumps Boys shoes Table 5.6 - Prices of shoes in the 1750s and 1760 (in pence per pair) Type of shoes Wales wholesale Northampton retail London retailing in prices in 1750s prices in 1764 the 1750s and 1760s 30 38 48 to 60 48 60 28 66 49 48 24 to 30 Source: PRO, C 106/120; Northampton Gazette (1764); various trade cards. 59 60 72 72 60 60 36 to 45 60 to 72 48 to 72 London shoemakers confirm the findings by Federer on Westminster trades. Most of such trades could not afford to "finance a labour process carried out entirely by waged workers. By contrast, the payment schedules involved in subcontracting were far more flexible". 47 The financing of the trade imposed constraints on its organisation. It has been suggested that subcontracting was 222 96 78 55 21
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Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
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"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
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This research would have not been c
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Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
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Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
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List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
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List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
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List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
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6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
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These are the theoretical reasons t
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concentrate on recent changes in th
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The use of the micro-analytic appro
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production are examined. The eighte
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industrial period. If we consider t
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inventories for the period 1788 to
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In the London Company the dissociat
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typology of products and producers,
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not yet completely mechanised) proc
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Part I of this thesis highlights th
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1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
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E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
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a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
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were tanning, currying and oil dres
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important centre for tanning and cu
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1/3 of the total export of French l
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Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
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England. These numbers, however, ha
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1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
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dark colour of the leather produced
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60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
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'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
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National leather market, abolishing
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leather. After the hide had been tr
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the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
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very low. In London a particular pr
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masters to employ journeymen who ha
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trade. It was also the formal recog
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inside the family business.' 17 Wom
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influence of new forces of change.'
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The purpose of part II of my thesis
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Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
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theme of standardisation and its re
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Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
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In the case of boots and shoes the
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limited, not in number but in value
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places like Petticoat Lane that, as
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with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
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should not think that ready-made sh
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Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
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-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
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120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
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As we will see in detail in the fol
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What can appear to us particularly
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C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
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According to Jean Morin, women's st
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Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
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Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
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will be going home on horseback".'
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Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
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Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
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Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
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Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
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silver and gold acquired from buckl
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Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
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One of the missing points in the di
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However French fashion became domin
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II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
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Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
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Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
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to be imposed "as being greatly con
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Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
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Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
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production.'° Symptomatic are the
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Moreover the expanding transoceanic
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Forty years later (circa 1760s and
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Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
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illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
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These new retailing systems were as
Page 187 and 188: Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
Page 189 and 190: 4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
Page 191 and 192: Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
Page 193 and 194: Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
Page 195 and 196: Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
Page 197 and 198: Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
Page 199 and 200: Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
Page 201 and 202: Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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Page 205 and 206: Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
Page 207 and 208: V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
Page 209 and 210: Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
Page 211 and 212: Sir, We have this day received a le
Page 213 and 214: 300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
Page 215 and 216: A series of letters had to be excha
Page 217 and 218: Corrections to the Account books as
Page 219 and 220: Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
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Page 223 and 224: evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
Page 225 and 226: show how the sector was neither sta
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Page 229 and 230: Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
Page 231 and 232: century, cordwainers represented in
Page 233 and 234: In the course of the century there
Page 235 and 236: Masters had to control journeymen i
Page 237: 5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
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Page 243 and 244: Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
Page 245 and 246: one shop. For the high-class shop i
Page 247 and 248: E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
Page 249 and 250: expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
Page 251 and 252: shoemakers who produced the entire
Page 253 and 254: Newgate Street in London for the "s
Page 255 and 256: estricted to only nine London shoem
Page 257 and 258: homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
Page 259 and 260: otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
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Page 263 and 264: important changes in productive pro
Page 265 and 266: Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
Page 267 and 268: Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
Page 269 and 270: Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
Page 271 and 272: The increase in shoe importation in
Page 273 and 274: St. James's in the London West End,
Page 275 and 276: As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
Page 278 and 279: In such a situation a long series o
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Page 282 and 283: The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
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journeymen shoemakers also had to f
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the manufacture of English sole lea
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This analysis shows a new perspecti
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Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
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Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
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The real or apparent difference bet
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Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
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These changes rendered more difficu
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6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
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6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
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Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
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evolution' has presented new questi
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The separation of production and re
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French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
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eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
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espoke production was a widespread
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6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
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90 per cent of the men employed in
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0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
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compared to other European states a
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underlined: many Parisian manufactu
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1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
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integrating economic rationality, s
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extensive literature on guilds in F
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Bibliography
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. DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
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1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
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Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
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Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
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Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
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micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
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cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
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• Exposition publique des produit
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• Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
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cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
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Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
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• M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
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politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
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Deindustrialization and reindustria
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Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
Page 368 and 369:
• A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
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• D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
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• V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
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• L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
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• E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
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commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
Page 380 and 381:
• A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
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elations from the beginning of the
Page 384 and 385:
• C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
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pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
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(Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
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• A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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