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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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capacity to secure his respectability <strong>in</strong>side <strong>the</strong> community were he <strong>and</strong> his<br />

family were liv<strong>in</strong>g. <strong>The</strong> notion of '<strong>in</strong>dividuality' dom<strong>in</strong>at<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> modern <strong>and</strong><br />

contemporary economic world is blurr . In <strong>the</strong> early modern world <strong>the</strong> force<br />

of family <strong>in</strong>heritance permeaft <strong>the</strong> entire productive system.37<br />

<strong>The</strong> family is here presented as an economic actor <strong>and</strong> can be <strong>in</strong>terpreted <strong>in</strong><br />

terms of its flexibility <strong>and</strong> sometimes even <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> creation of larger productive<br />

units than those considered by <strong>the</strong> Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers' Company. 38 From <strong>the</strong> mid-<br />

eighteenth century a complex structure of subcontract<strong>in</strong>g is evident <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> boot<br />

<strong>and</strong> shoe trade (see chapter 5)39 <strong>The</strong>se complex cha<strong>in</strong>s <strong>in</strong> production, very<br />

efficient <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> n<strong>in</strong>eteenth century <strong>in</strong> secur<strong>in</strong>g low labour costs <strong>and</strong> large<br />

quantities of shoes for <strong>the</strong> domestic <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational markets, although well<br />

known to <strong>the</strong> corporative structure of <strong>the</strong> trade, did not have any codified rules.<br />

In this case <strong>the</strong> extra-economic action of a family structure provided backward<br />

l<strong>in</strong>ks to ensure not only a supply of f<strong>in</strong>ished or semi-f<strong>in</strong>ished goods, but also<br />

raw material, credit <strong>and</strong> bank<strong>in</strong>g. 4° <strong>The</strong> family was <strong>the</strong> right way to extend <strong>the</strong><br />

structure of <strong>the</strong> trade, especially <strong>in</strong> new organisations of production not<br />

contemplated by <strong>the</strong> Company. In this sense <strong>the</strong> family was a substitute for <strong>the</strong><br />

Company.<br />

With <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> eighteenth century <strong>the</strong> growth of <strong>London</strong> presented new<br />

opportunities for <strong>the</strong> trade outside both <strong>the</strong> corporate <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> family system. <strong>The</strong><br />

import of shoes from Yorkshire (circa 1765) <strong>and</strong> afterwards from Stafford <strong>and</strong><br />

Northampton created for <strong>the</strong> first time a clear division between production <strong>and</strong><br />

retail<strong>in</strong>g that <strong>the</strong> Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers' Company had tried to avoid over several<br />

decades. 4' <strong>The</strong> system enhanced by <strong>the</strong> Company presented <strong>in</strong> fact a<br />

(Cambridge, 1991), P. 147.<br />

37 J.P. Ward, Metropolitan communities, cit., p. 6.<br />

38 <strong>The</strong> wider historiographical debate is related to <strong>the</strong> studies by Sabel <strong>and</strong> Zeitl<strong>in</strong> on flexible<br />

alternatives to mass production. See C.F. Sabel <strong>and</strong> J. Zeitl<strong>in</strong>, 'Historical alternatives to mass<br />

production: politics, markets <strong>and</strong> technology <strong>in</strong> n<strong>in</strong>eteenth-century <strong>in</strong>dustrialization', Past <strong>and</strong><br />

Present, CVIII (1985), pp. 133-76; id., 'Stories, strategies, structures: reth<strong>in</strong>k<strong>in</strong>g historical<br />

alternatives to mass production', <strong>in</strong> C.F. Sabel <strong>and</strong> J. Zeitl<strong>in</strong>, eds., World of possibilities:<br />

flexibility <strong>and</strong> mass production <strong>in</strong> western <strong>in</strong>dustrialization (Cambridge, 1997), pp. 1-29.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Company always wanted to ma<strong>in</strong>ta<strong>in</strong> o low level of division of labour. This was<br />

fundamental <strong>in</strong> susta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g a productive structure based on transmissions of skills <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>refore<br />

of a corporate system.<br />

° M. Sonenscher, 'Work <strong>and</strong> wages <strong>in</strong> <strong>Paris</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> eighteenth century', <strong>in</strong> M. Berg, P. Hudson<br />

<strong>and</strong> M. Sonenscher, eds., Manufacture <strong>in</strong> town <strong>and</strong> country before <strong>the</strong> factory, cit., p. 156.<br />

As early as 1747 Campbell wrote that "<strong>The</strong> Country <strong>Shoe</strong>-Makers supply most of <strong>the</strong> Sale-<br />

Shops <strong>in</strong> Town, <strong>the</strong> Price of mak<strong>in</strong>g be<strong>in</strong>g too large to allow <strong>the</strong>se Shop-keepers to employ<br />

65

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