The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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As Fine and Leopold have pointed out, fashion was not continuously changing entire products, but was quite often confined to marginal apparels such as ribbons and laces, scarves, artificial flowers and so on.' 3° Buckles seem to be part of this group of objects, such as the Birmingham toys.' 31 In opposition to modern buckles, eighteenth-century buckles were removable. In Pamela, the father does not have suitable shoes for his daughter's wedding, but the bridegroom "was then pleased to give him the silver buckles out of his own shoes".' 32 Buckles could be suited to different dresses or different occasions, changing the appearance of a pair of shoes quite substantially. They also reflected the person and were recognised to be an integral part of his identity. Buckles signified of a person's status (illustration 3.9). When in 1784 the country parson James Woodforde dined in company of new acquaintances, he observed the stance of his fellows from their buckles: "Mr Micklethwaite had in his Shoes a Pair of Silver Buckles which cost between 7 and 8 Pounds" and another guest had "a pair that cost 5 guineas". 133 In 1782 Carl Philip Moritz had been irritated by a young fop sitting behind him at the Haymarket Theatre, who "continually put his foot on my bench in order to show off the flashy stone buckles on his shoes; if I didn't make way for his precious buckles he put his foot on my coat tails".' 34 Even social presumption was expressed through the use of buckles. There was an order in the nature of goods, mediated by social structures and values. The use of large shoe buckles was criticised as inappropriate only for certain classes. The figure of the Parisian petit maître is one case. His social pretentiousness is expressed through his clothes and large buckles.'35 130 B. Fine and E. Leopold, 'Consumerism and the industrial revolution', cit., pp. 15 1-2. 131 M. Berg, 'Inventors and the world of goods', in K. Bruland and P. O'Brien, ed., From family firms to corporate, cit., pp. 2 1-42. 132 Cit. in Byroe, The male image, cit., p. 197. '"J. Woodforde, The diary of a country parson 1758-1802 (Oxford, 1978), p. 227. I thank Helen Clifford for this reference. 'M R. Nettel, ed., Carl Philip Moritz journeys of a German in England in 1782 (London, 1965), p. 61. 135 J.-Y. Grenier, 'Consommation et marché au XVIIIe siècle', Hisroire & Mesure, X - 3/4 (1995), p. 374. 135
Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of Lavoisier and his Wift by J.L. David, 1788 r * Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. 4 1 r ..$d' . - i- ;. - r 136 £
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Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
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"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
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This research would have not been c
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Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
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Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
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List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
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List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
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List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
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6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
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These are the theoretical reasons t
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concentrate on recent changes in th
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The use of the micro-analytic appro
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production are examined. The eighte
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industrial period. If we consider t
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inventories for the period 1788 to
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In the London Company the dissociat
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typology of products and producers,
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not yet completely mechanised) proc
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Part I of this thesis highlights th
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1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
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E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
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a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
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were tanning, currying and oil dres
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important centre for tanning and cu
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1/3 of the total export of French l
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Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
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England. These numbers, however, ha
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1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
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dark colour of the leather produced
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60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
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'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
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National leather market, abolishing
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leather. After the hide had been tr
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the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
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very low. In London a particular pr
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masters to employ journeymen who ha
Page 101 and 102: trade. It was also the formal recog
Page 103 and 104: inside the family business.' 17 Wom
Page 105 and 106: influence of new forces of change.'
Page 107 and 108: The purpose of part II of my thesis
Page 109 and 110: Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
Page 111 and 112: theme of standardisation and its re
Page 113 and 114: Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
Page 115 and 116: In the case of boots and shoes the
Page 117 and 118: limited, not in number but in value
Page 119 and 120: places like Petticoat Lane that, as
Page 121 and 122: with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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Page 125 and 126: should not think that ready-made sh
Page 127 and 128: Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
Page 129 and 130: -9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
Page 131 and 132: 120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
Page 133 and 134: As we will see in detail in the fol
Page 135 and 136: What can appear to us particularly
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Page 139 and 140: According to Jean Morin, women's st
Page 141 and 142: Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
Page 143 and 144: Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
Page 145 and 146: will be going home on horseback".'
Page 147 and 148: Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
Page 149 and 150: Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
Page 151: Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
Page 155 and 156: silver and gold acquired from buckl
Page 157 and 158: Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
Page 159 and 160: One of the missing points in the di
Page 161 and 162: However French fashion became domin
Page 163 and 164: II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
Page 165 and 166: Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
Page 167 and 168: Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
Page 169 and 170: to be imposed "as being greatly con
Page 171 and 172: Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
Page 173 and 174: Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
Page 175 and 176: production.'° Symptomatic are the
Page 177 and 178: Moreover the expanding transoceanic
Page 179 and 180: Forty years later (circa 1760s and
Page 181 and 182: Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
Page 183 and 184: illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
Page 185 and 186: These new retailing systems were as
Page 187 and 188: Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
Page 189 and 190: 4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
Page 191 and 192: Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
Page 193 and 194: Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
Page 195 and 196: Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
Page 197 and 198: Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
Page 199 and 200: Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
Page 201 and 202: Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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unning a small business, he had not
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Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
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V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
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Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
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Sir, We have this day received a le
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300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
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A series of letters had to be excha
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Corrections to the Account books as
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Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
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century and follow a well-establish
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evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
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show how the sector was neither sta
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a business carried out on a large s
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Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
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century, cordwainers represented in
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In the course of the century there
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Masters had to control journeymen i
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5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
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The most important information prov
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= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
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Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
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one shop. For the high-class shop i
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E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
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expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
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shoemakers who produced the entire
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Newgate Street in London for the "s
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estricted to only nine London shoem
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homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
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otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
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improved by the Leicestershire shoe
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important changes in productive pro
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Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
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Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
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Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
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The increase in shoe importation in
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St. James's in the London West End,
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As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
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In such a situation a long series o
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the more traditional productive env
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The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
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V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
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IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
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journeymen shoemakers also had to f
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the manufacture of English sole lea
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This analysis shows a new perspecti
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Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
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Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
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The real or apparent difference bet
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Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
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These changes rendered more difficu
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6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
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6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
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Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
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evolution' has presented new questi
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The separation of production and re
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French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
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eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
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espoke production was a widespread
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6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
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90 per cent of the men employed in
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0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
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compared to other European states a
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underlined: many Parisian manufactu
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1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
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integrating economic rationality, s
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extensive literature on guilds in F
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Bibliography
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. DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
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1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
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Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
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Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
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Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
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micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
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cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
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• Exposition publique des produit
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• Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
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cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
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Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
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• M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
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politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
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Deindustrialization and reindustria
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Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
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• A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
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• D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
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• V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
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• L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
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• E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
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commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
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• A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
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elations from the beginning of the
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• C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
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pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
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(Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
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• A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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