Laws <strong>and</strong> Statutes • Laws <strong>and</strong> Statutes. Chronological Series, Act for Lay<strong>in</strong>g a Duty upon Lea<strong>the</strong>r for <strong>the</strong> Term of Three Years <strong>and</strong> Mak<strong>in</strong>g O<strong>the</strong>r Provision for Answer<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Deficiencies..., (<strong>London</strong>: Charles Bill, 1797). • Laws <strong>and</strong> Statutes. Chronological Series, William ifi; VIII. & IX. Will. III. c. 21; A Clause <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Act for lay<strong>in</strong>g a duty on Lea<strong>the</strong>r <strong>and</strong> Sk<strong>in</strong>s, (<strong>London</strong>, 1700 (?)). • Laws <strong>and</strong> Statutes. Chronological Series, James I; 1 Jac. I. c. 22.; Observations on <strong>the</strong> Policy <strong>and</strong> Expediency of repeal<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Statute of 1st James I. chap. 22 concern<strong>in</strong>g Tanners, Curriers, <strong>Shoe</strong>makers, etc., (Brentford: P. Norbury, 1803). • Laws of <strong>the</strong> Republic of Venice, Doge Domenico Contar<strong>in</strong>i (1659-74), An act for prohibit<strong>in</strong>g foreign lea<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong> Venice, 13 November 1674, (<strong>London</strong> (?), 1674). • Loi relative aux tanneurs & autres fabricants de peaux: donnée a <strong>Paris</strong>, le 5 decembre 1790, (Alencon: De limprimerie de Malassis le Jeune, 1791). Parliamentary Papers • Accounts <strong>and</strong> Papers relat<strong>in</strong>g to Customs; Excise; Taxes; Stamp; etc., vol. 1, session 3 February to 25th of June, 1824, vol. XVII, 1824. • Relations between France <strong>and</strong> Great Brita<strong>in</strong>, addressed to <strong>the</strong> Right Honourable <strong>the</strong> Lords of <strong>the</strong> committee of <strong>the</strong> Privy council for <strong>the</strong> Trade <strong>and</strong> Plantations, by George Villiers <strong>and</strong> John Bowr<strong>in</strong>g with a supplement report by John Bowr<strong>in</strong>g, (<strong>London</strong>: William Clowes, 1834). • Parliamentary Papers - Report from <strong>the</strong> Select Committee on Import Duties; toge<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong> M<strong>in</strong>utes of Evidence, an Appendix, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>dex (Import Duties, Report from <strong>the</strong> Select Committee, 1840-45). 'Bills, 1801, no. 69, vol. 1, p. 163, micro 1.2. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Report of Committees, 1807, no. 40, vol. 2, p. 295, micro 8.7. 'Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> Papers, 18 12-13, no. 54, vol. 12, p. 355, micro 14.78 'Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> Papers, 18 12-13, no. 55, vol. 12, p. 357, micro 14.78. 'Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Report of Committees, 1812-13, no. 128, vol. 4, p. 593, micro 14.23-25. 'Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> Papers, 18 14-15, no. 33, vol. 12, p. 231, micro 15.69. 'Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Report of Committees, 1816, no. 386, vol. 6, p. 1, micro 17.28-29. 'Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> Papers, 1816, no. 370, vol. 14, p. 277, micro 329
17.81. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1816, no. 136, vol. 14, p. 263, micro 18.72. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1816, no. 220, vol. 14, p. 281, micro 18.72. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1818, no. 87, vol. 14, p. 201, micro 19.75. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1818, no. 103, vol. 14, p. 203, micro 19.75. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1818, no. 104, vol. 14, p. 207, micro 19.75. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1818, no. 106, vol. 14, p. 213, micro 19.75. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1819, no. 158, vol. 15, p. 461, micro 20.130. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1819, no. 159, vol. 15, p. 463, micro 20.130. • Bills, 1823, no. 427, vol. 1, p. 169, micro 25.2-3. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Report of Committees, 1824, no. 323, vol. 7, p. 183, micro 26.43-45. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1824, no. 232, vol. 17, p. 201, micro 26.108. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1826, no. 397, vol. 22, p. 63, micro 28.140. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1827, no. 397, vol. 19, p. 559, micro 30. 125. 'Bills, 1830, no. 248, vol. 2, p. 463, micro 32.12. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1830, no. 363, vol. 25, p. 265, micro 32.180. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1830, no. 363, vol. 25, p. 277, micro 32.180. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Report of Committees, 1834, no. 64, vol. 19, P. 1, micro 37.131-33. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1846, no. 289, vol. 44, p. 27, micro 50.364 • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1840, no. 398, vol. 44, p. 123, micro 43.323. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1845, no. 628, vol. 46, p. 357, micro 49.333-34. • Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1847-8, no. 517, vol. 58, p. 349, micro 52.473. •Comm<strong>and</strong> Papers - Accounts <strong>and</strong> papers, 1847-8, no. 517, vol. 58, p. 390, 330
- Page 1 and 2:
Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
- Page 3 and 4:
"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
- Page 5 and 6:
This research would have not been c
- Page 7 and 8:
Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
- Page 9 and 10:
Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
- Page 11 and 12:
List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
- Page 13 and 14:
List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
- Page 15 and 16:
List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
- Page 17 and 18:
6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
- Page 19 and 20:
These are the theoretical reasons t
- Page 21 and 22:
concentrate on recent changes in th
- Page 23 and 24:
The use of the micro-analytic appro
- Page 25 and 26:
production are examined. The eighte
- Page 27 and 28:
industrial period. If we consider t
- Page 29 and 30:
inventories for the period 1788 to
- Page 31 and 32:
In the London Company the dissociat
- Page 33 and 34:
typology of products and producers,
- Page 35 and 36:
not yet completely mechanised) proc
- Page 37 and 38:
Part I of this thesis highlights th
- Page 39 and 40:
1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
- Page 41 and 42:
E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
- Page 43 and 44:
a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
- Page 45 and 46:
were tanning, currying and oil dres
- Page 47 and 48:
important centre for tanning and cu
- Page 49 and 50:
1/3 of the total export of French l
- Page 51 and 52:
Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
- Page 53 and 54:
England. These numbers, however, ha
- Page 55 and 56:
1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
- Page 57 and 58:
dark colour of the leather produced
- Page 59 and 60:
60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
- Page 61 and 62:
'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
- Page 63 and 64:
National leather market, abolishing
- Page 65 and 66:
leather. After the hide had been tr
- Page 67 and 68:
the revolutionary government mainta
- Page 69 and 70:
trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
- Page 71 and 72:
gave substantial financial aid to t
- Page 73 and 74:
Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
- Page 75 and 76:
through technological and organisat
- Page 77 and 78:
saddlemakers and others who were pa
- Page 79 and 80:
of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
- Page 81 and 82:
models are related only to a rural
- Page 83 and 84:
stratification of the workshop over
- Page 85 and 86:
900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
- Page 87 and 88:
in all the periods considered. 52 S
- Page 89 and 90:
same chain of production, such as b
- Page 91 and 92:
eality life in the master's househo
- Page 93 and 94:
their respective trades.73 In cordw
- Page 95 and 96:
membership of the company and the e
- Page 97 and 98:
very low. In London a particular pr
- Page 99 and 100:
masters to employ journeymen who ha
- Page 101 and 102:
trade. It was also the formal recog
- Page 103 and 104:
inside the family business.' 17 Wom
- Page 105 and 106:
influence of new forces of change.'
- Page 107 and 108:
The purpose of part II of my thesis
- Page 109 and 110:
Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
- Page 111 and 112:
theme of standardisation and its re
- Page 113 and 114:
Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
- Page 115 and 116:
In the case of boots and shoes the
- Page 117 and 118:
limited, not in number but in value
- Page 119 and 120:
places like Petticoat Lane that, as
- Page 121 and 122:
with a total amount of £9,073 valu
- Page 123 and 124:
600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
- Page 125 and 126:
should not think that ready-made sh
- Page 127 and 128:
Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
- Page 129 and 130:
-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
- Page 131 and 132:
120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
- Page 133 and 134:
As we will see in detail in the fol
- Page 135 and 136:
What can appear to us particularly
- Page 137 and 138:
C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
- Page 139 and 140:
According to Jean Morin, women's st
- Page 141 and 142:
Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
- Page 143 and 144:
Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
- Page 145 and 146:
will be going home on horseback".'
- Page 147 and 148:
Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
- Page 149 and 150:
Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
- Page 151 and 152:
Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
- Page 153 and 154:
Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
- Page 155 and 156:
silver and gold acquired from buckl
- Page 157 and 158:
Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
- Page 159 and 160:
One of the missing points in the di
- Page 161 and 162:
However French fashion became domin
- Page 163 and 164:
II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
- Page 165 and 166:
Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
- Page 167 and 168:
Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
- Page 169 and 170:
to be imposed "as being greatly con
- Page 171 and 172:
Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
- Page 173 and 174:
Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
- Page 175 and 176:
production.'° Symptomatic are the
- Page 177 and 178:
Moreover the expanding transoceanic
- Page 179 and 180:
Forty years later (circa 1760s and
- Page 181 and 182:
Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
- Page 183 and 184:
illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
- Page 185 and 186:
These new retailing systems were as
- Page 187 and 188:
Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
- Page 189 and 190:
4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
- Page 191 and 192:
Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
- Page 193 and 194:
Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
- Page 195 and 196:
Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
- Page 197 and 198:
Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
- Page 199 and 200:
Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
- Page 201 and 202:
Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
- Page 203 and 204:
unning a small business, he had not
- Page 205 and 206:
Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
- Page 207 and 208:
V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
- Page 209 and 210:
Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
- Page 211 and 212:
Sir, We have this day received a le
- Page 213 and 214:
300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
- Page 215 and 216:
A series of letters had to be excha
- Page 217 and 218:
Corrections to the Account books as
- Page 219 and 220:
Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
- Page 221 and 222:
century and follow a well-establish
- Page 223 and 224:
evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
- Page 225 and 226:
show how the sector was neither sta
- Page 227 and 228:
a business carried out on a large s
- Page 229 and 230:
Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
- Page 231 and 232:
century, cordwainers represented in
- Page 233 and 234:
In the course of the century there
- Page 235 and 236:
Masters had to control journeymen i
- Page 237 and 238:
5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
- Page 239 and 240:
The most important information prov
- Page 241 and 242:
= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
- Page 243 and 244:
Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
- Page 245 and 246:
one shop. For the high-class shop i
- Page 247 and 248:
E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
- Page 249 and 250:
expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
- Page 251 and 252:
shoemakers who produced the entire
- Page 253 and 254:
Newgate Street in London for the "s
- Page 255 and 256:
estricted to only nine London shoem
- Page 257 and 258:
homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
- Page 259 and 260:
otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
- Page 261 and 262:
improved by the Leicestershire shoe
- Page 263 and 264:
important changes in productive pro
- Page 265 and 266:
Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
- Page 267 and 268:
Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
- Page 269 and 270:
Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
- Page 271 and 272:
The increase in shoe importation in
- Page 273 and 274:
St. James's in the London West End,
- Page 275 and 276:
As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
- Page 278 and 279:
In such a situation a long series o
- Page 280 and 281:
the more traditional productive env
- Page 282 and 283:
The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
- Page 284 and 285:
V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
- Page 286 and 287:
IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
- Page 288 and 289:
journeymen shoemakers also had to f
- Page 290 and 291:
the manufacture of English sole lea
- Page 292 and 293:
This analysis shows a new perspecti
- Page 294 and 295:
Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
- Page 296 and 297: Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
- Page 298 and 299: The real or apparent difference bet
- Page 300 and 301: Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
- Page 302 and 303: These changes rendered more difficu
- Page 304 and 305: 6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
- Page 306 and 307: 6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
- Page 308 and 309: Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
- Page 310 and 311: evolution' has presented new questi
- Page 312 and 313: The separation of production and re
- Page 314 and 315: French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
- Page 316 and 317: eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
- Page 318 and 319: espoke production was a widespread
- Page 320 and 321: 6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
- Page 322 and 323: 90 per cent of the men employed in
- Page 324 and 325: 0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
- Page 326 and 327: compared to other European states a
- Page 328 and 329: underlined: many Parisian manufactu
- Page 330 and 331: 1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
- Page 332 and 333: integrating economic rationality, s
- Page 334 and 335: extensive literature on guilds in F
- Page 336 and 337: Bibliography
- Page 338 and 339: . DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
- Page 340 and 341: 1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
- Page 342 and 343: Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
- Page 344 and 345: Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
- Page 348 and 349: micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
- Page 350 and 351: cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
- Page 352 and 353: • Exposition publique des produit
- Page 354 and 355: • Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
- Page 356 and 357: cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
- Page 358 and 359: Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
- Page 360 and 361: • M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
- Page 362 and 363: politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
- Page 364 and 365: Deindustrialization and reindustria
- Page 366 and 367: Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
- Page 368 and 369: • A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
- Page 370 and 371: • D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
- Page 372 and 373: • V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
- Page 374 and 375: • L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
- Page 376 and 377: • E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
- Page 378 and 379: commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
- Page 380 and 381: • A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
- Page 382 and 383: elations from the beginning of the
- Page 384 and 385: • C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
- Page 386 and 387: pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
- Page 388 and 389: (Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
- Page 390 and 391: • A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h