The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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Laws and Statutes • Laws and Statutes. Chronological Series, Act for Laying a Duty upon Leather for the Term of Three Years and Making Other Provision for Answering the Deficiencies..., (London: Charles Bill, 1797). • Laws and Statutes. Chronological Series, William ifi; VIII. & IX. Will. III. c. 21; A Clause in the Act for laying a duty on Leather and Skins, (London, 1700 (?)). • Laws and Statutes. Chronological Series, James I; 1 Jac. I. c. 22.; Observations on the Policy and Expediency of repealing the Statute of 1st James I. chap. 22 concerning Tanners, Curriers, Shoemakers, etc., (Brentford: P. Norbury, 1803). • Laws of the Republic of Venice, Doge Domenico Contarini (1659-74), An act for prohibiting foreign leather in Venice, 13 November 1674, (London (?), 1674). • Loi relative aux tanneurs & autres fabricants de peaux: donnée a Paris, le 5 decembre 1790, (Alencon: De limprimerie de Malassis le Jeune, 1791). Parliamentary Papers • Accounts and Papers relating to Customs; Excise; Taxes; Stamp; etc., vol. 1, session 3 February to 25th of June, 1824, vol. XVII, 1824. • Relations between France and Great Britain, addressed to the Right Honourable the Lords of the committee of the Privy council for the Trade and Plantations, by George Villiers and John Bowring with a supplement report by John Bowring, (London: William Clowes, 1834). • Parliamentary Papers - Report from the Select Committee on Import Duties; together with the Minutes of Evidence, an Appendix, and index (Import Duties, Report from the Select Committee, 1840-45). 'Bills, 1801, no. 69, vol. 1, p. 163, micro 1.2. • Command Papers - Report of Committees, 1807, no. 40, vol. 2, p. 295, micro 8.7. 'Command Papers - Accounts and Papers, 18 12-13, no. 54, vol. 12, p. 355, micro 14.78 'Command Papers - Accounts and Papers, 18 12-13, no. 55, vol. 12, p. 357, micro 14.78. 'Command Papers - Report of Committees, 1812-13, no. 128, vol. 4, p. 593, micro 14.23-25. 'Command Papers - Accounts and Papers, 18 14-15, no. 33, vol. 12, p. 231, micro 15.69. 'Command Papers - Report of Committees, 1816, no. 386, vol. 6, p. 1, micro 17.28-29. 'Command Papers - Accounts and Papers, 1816, no. 370, vol. 14, p. 277, micro 329
17.81. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1816, no. 136, vol. 14, p. 263, micro 18.72. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1816, no. 220, vol. 14, p. 281, micro 18.72. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1818, no. 87, vol. 14, p. 201, micro 19.75. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1818, no. 103, vol. 14, p. 203, micro 19.75. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1818, no. 104, vol. 14, p. 207, micro 19.75. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1818, no. 106, vol. 14, p. 213, micro 19.75. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1819, no. 158, vol. 15, p. 461, micro 20.130. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1819, no. 159, vol. 15, p. 463, micro 20.130. • Bills, 1823, no. 427, vol. 1, p. 169, micro 25.2-3. • Command Papers - Report of Committees, 1824, no. 323, vol. 7, p. 183, micro 26.43-45. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1824, no. 232, vol. 17, p. 201, micro 26.108. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1826, no. 397, vol. 22, p. 63, micro 28.140. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1827, no. 397, vol. 19, p. 559, micro 30. 125. 'Bills, 1830, no. 248, vol. 2, p. 463, micro 32.12. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1830, no. 363, vol. 25, p. 265, micro 32.180. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1830, no. 363, vol. 25, p. 277, micro 32.180. • Command Papers - Report of Committees, 1834, no. 64, vol. 19, P. 1, micro 37.131-33. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1846, no. 289, vol. 44, p. 27, micro 50.364 • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1840, no. 398, vol. 44, p. 123, micro 43.323. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1845, no. 628, vol. 46, p. 357, micro 49.333-34. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1847-8, no. 517, vol. 58, p. 349, micro 52.473. •Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1847-8, no. 517, vol. 58, p. 390, 330
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Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
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"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
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This research would have not been c
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Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
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Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
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List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
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List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
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List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
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6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
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These are the theoretical reasons t
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concentrate on recent changes in th
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The use of the micro-analytic appro
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production are examined. The eighte
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industrial period. If we consider t
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inventories for the period 1788 to
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In the London Company the dissociat
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typology of products and producers,
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not yet completely mechanised) proc
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Part I of this thesis highlights th
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1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
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E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
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a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
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were tanning, currying and oil dres
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important centre for tanning and cu
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1/3 of the total export of French l
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Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
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England. These numbers, however, ha
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1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
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dark colour of the leather produced
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60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
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'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
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National leather market, abolishing
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leather. After the hide had been tr
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the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
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very low. In London a particular pr
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masters to employ journeymen who ha
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trade. It was also the formal recog
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inside the family business.' 17 Wom
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influence of new forces of change.'
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The purpose of part II of my thesis
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Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
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theme of standardisation and its re
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Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
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In the case of boots and shoes the
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limited, not in number but in value
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places like Petticoat Lane that, as
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with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
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should not think that ready-made sh
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Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
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-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
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120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
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As we will see in detail in the fol
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What can appear to us particularly
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C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
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According to Jean Morin, women's st
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Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
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Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
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will be going home on horseback".'
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Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
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Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
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Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
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Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
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silver and gold acquired from buckl
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Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
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One of the missing points in the di
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However French fashion became domin
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II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
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Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
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Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
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to be imposed "as being greatly con
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Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
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Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
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production.'° Symptomatic are the
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Moreover the expanding transoceanic
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Forty years later (circa 1760s and
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Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
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illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
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These new retailing systems were as
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Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
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4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
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Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
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Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
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Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
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Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
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Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
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Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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unning a small business, he had not
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Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
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V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
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Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
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Sir, We have this day received a le
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300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
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A series of letters had to be excha
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Corrections to the Account books as
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Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
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century and follow a well-establish
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evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
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show how the sector was neither sta
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a business carried out on a large s
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Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
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century, cordwainers represented in
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In the course of the century there
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Masters had to control journeymen i
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5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
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The most important information prov
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= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
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Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
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one shop. For the high-class shop i
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E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
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expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
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shoemakers who produced the entire
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Newgate Street in London for the "s
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estricted to only nine London shoem
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homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
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otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
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improved by the Leicestershire shoe
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important changes in productive pro
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Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
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Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
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Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
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The increase in shoe importation in
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St. James's in the London West End,
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As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
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In such a situation a long series o
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the more traditional productive env
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The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
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V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
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IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
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journeymen shoemakers also had to f
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the manufacture of English sole lea
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This analysis shows a new perspecti
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Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
Page 296 and 297: Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
Page 298 and 299: The real or apparent difference bet
Page 300 and 301: Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
Page 302 and 303: These changes rendered more difficu
Page 304 and 305: 6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
Page 306 and 307: 6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
Page 308 and 309: Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
Page 310 and 311: evolution' has presented new questi
Page 312 and 313: The separation of production and re
Page 314 and 315: French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
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Page 318 and 319: espoke production was a widespread
Page 320 and 321: 6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
Page 322 and 323: 90 per cent of the men employed in
Page 324 and 325: 0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
Page 326 and 327: compared to other European states a
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Page 330 and 331: 1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
Page 332 and 333: integrating economic rationality, s
Page 334 and 335: extensive literature on guilds in F
Page 336 and 337: Bibliography
Page 338 and 339: . DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
Page 340 and 341: 1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
Page 342 and 343: Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
Page 344 and 345: Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
Page 348 and 349: micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
Page 350 and 351: cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
Page 352 and 353: • Exposition publique des produit
Page 354 and 355: • Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
Page 356 and 357: cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
Page 358 and 359: Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
Page 360 and 361: • M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
Page 362 and 363: politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
Page 364 and 365: Deindustrialization and reindustria
Page 366 and 367: Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
Page 368 and 369: • A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
Page 370 and 371: • D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
Page 372 and 373: • V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
Page 374 and 375: • L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
Page 376 and 377: • E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
Page 378 and 379: commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
Page 380 and 381: • A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
Page 382 and 383: elations from the beginning of the
Page 384 and 385: • C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
Page 386 and 387: pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
Page 388 and 389: (Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
Page 390 and 391: • A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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