The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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Illustration 3.6 - 'The Hanging Wood or a Pall Mall Puff', caricature, 1797 Source: Guildhall Library, Prints Department, 34,274. 129 I
Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot - The Head of the Army, 1828 Source: Victoria and Albert Museum, WM 805-1948. 130 -
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Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
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"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
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This research would have not been c
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Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
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Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
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List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
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List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
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List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
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6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
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These are the theoretical reasons t
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concentrate on recent changes in th
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The use of the micro-analytic appro
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production are examined. The eighte
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industrial period. If we consider t
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inventories for the period 1788 to
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In the London Company the dissociat
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typology of products and producers,
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not yet completely mechanised) proc
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Part I of this thesis highlights th
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1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
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E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
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a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
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were tanning, currying and oil dres
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important centre for tanning and cu
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1/3 of the total export of French l
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Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
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England. These numbers, however, ha
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1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
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dark colour of the leather produced
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60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
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'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
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National leather market, abolishing
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leather. After the hide had been tr
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the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
Page 95 and 96: membership of the company and the e
Page 97 and 98: very low. In London a particular pr
Page 99 and 100: masters to employ journeymen who ha
Page 101 and 102: trade. It was also the formal recog
Page 103 and 104: inside the family business.' 17 Wom
Page 105 and 106: influence of new forces of change.'
Page 107 and 108: The purpose of part II of my thesis
Page 109 and 110: Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
Page 111 and 112: theme of standardisation and its re
Page 113 and 114: Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
Page 115 and 116: In the case of boots and shoes the
Page 117 and 118: limited, not in number but in value
Page 119 and 120: places like Petticoat Lane that, as
Page 121 and 122: with a total amount of £9,073 valu
Page 123 and 124: 600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
Page 125 and 126: should not think that ready-made sh
Page 127 and 128: Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
Page 129 and 130: -9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
Page 131 and 132: 120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
Page 133 and 134: As we will see in detail in the fol
Page 135 and 136: What can appear to us particularly
Page 137 and 138: C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
Page 139 and 140: According to Jean Morin, women's st
Page 141 and 142: Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
Page 143 and 144: Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
Page 145: will be going home on horseback".'
Page 149 and 150: Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
Page 151 and 152: Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
Page 153 and 154: Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
Page 155 and 156: silver and gold acquired from buckl
Page 157 and 158: Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
Page 159 and 160: One of the missing points in the di
Page 161 and 162: However French fashion became domin
Page 163 and 164: II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
Page 165 and 166: Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
Page 167 and 168: Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
Page 169 and 170: to be imposed "as being greatly con
Page 171 and 172: Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
Page 173 and 174: Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
Page 175 and 176: production.'° Symptomatic are the
Page 177 and 178: Moreover the expanding transoceanic
Page 179 and 180: Forty years later (circa 1760s and
Page 181 and 182: Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
Page 183 and 184: illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
Page 185 and 186: These new retailing systems were as
Page 187 and 188: Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
Page 189 and 190: 4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
Page 191 and 192: Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
Page 193 and 194: Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
Page 195 and 196: Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
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Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
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Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
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Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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unning a small business, he had not
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Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
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V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
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Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
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Sir, We have this day received a le
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300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
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A series of letters had to be excha
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Corrections to the Account books as
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Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
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century and follow a well-establish
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evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
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show how the sector was neither sta
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a business carried out on a large s
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Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
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century, cordwainers represented in
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In the course of the century there
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Masters had to control journeymen i
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5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
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The most important information prov
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= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
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Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
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one shop. For the high-class shop i
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E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
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expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
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shoemakers who produced the entire
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Newgate Street in London for the "s
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estricted to only nine London shoem
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homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
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otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
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improved by the Leicestershire shoe
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important changes in productive pro
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Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
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Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
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Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
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The increase in shoe importation in
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St. James's in the London West End,
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As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
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In such a situation a long series o
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the more traditional productive env
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The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
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V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
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IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
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journeymen shoemakers also had to f
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the manufacture of English sole lea
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This analysis shows a new perspecti
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Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
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Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
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The real or apparent difference bet
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Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
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These changes rendered more difficu
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6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
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6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
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Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
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evolution' has presented new questi
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The separation of production and re
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French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
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eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
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espoke production was a widespread
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6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
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90 per cent of the men employed in
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0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
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compared to other European states a
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underlined: many Parisian manufactu
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1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
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integrating economic rationality, s
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extensive literature on guilds in F
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Bibliography
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. DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
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1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
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Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
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Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
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Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
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micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
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cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
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• Exposition publique des produit
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• Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
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cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
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Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
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• M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
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politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
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Deindustrialization and reindustria
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Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
Page 368 and 369:
• A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
Page 370 and 371:
• D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
Page 372 and 373:
• V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
Page 374 and 375:
• L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
Page 376 and 377:
• E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
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commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
Page 380 and 381:
• A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
Page 382 and 383:
elations from the beginning of the
Page 384 and 385:
• C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
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pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
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(Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
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• A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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