The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354: Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, 'Court Records - Index to Court Records, 1752-1833', vols. 1(1752-1833), II (1833-1874). • MS 7,358: Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, 'Membership Records - Annual Lists of Masters, Wardens, Assistants and Livery, 1664-1832', vols. i and ii. • MS 7,360: Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, 'Trade Records - Original Petitions to the • MS 7,361: Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, 'Trade Records - Letters addressed to the Company from Provincial Guilds and Societies of Cordwainers Opposing a Bill Brought into the House of Commons by the Curriers', c. 1732. • MS 14,318: Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, 'Constitutional Records - Charter, Ordinance and Memorandum Book, 160 1-1742'. • MS 14,321: Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, 'Trade Records - Register of Documentary and Other Evidence Produced on Application for Certificates of "Right To Trade', 1774-1856. • MS 14,338: Worshipful Company of Curriers, 'Trade Records - Flaying Committee, 1803-08'. • MS 24139: Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, 'Membership Records - Register of Apprentice Bindings 1709-1965'. • MS 24,140: Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, 'Membership Records - Freedom Admissions 1678-1961'. • MS 24,174: Sun and Royal policy registers, index, 1775-1787, compiled by R. Floud. • MS 24,963: Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, 'Constitutional Records - An Act for Preventing Journeymen Shoemakers Selling, Exchanging, or Pawning Boots, Shoes, Slippers, Cut Leather or Other Materials for Making Boots, Shoes or Slippers, 1722-23'. Guildhall Library - Prints Department Trade Card Collection, 21 vols. • Collage Image Catalogue. London Metropolitan Archive • BIPe1: Peal & Co. Manuscripts, 'Customer Book', 1837-43, 1844-45, 1846-47, 1849-1852. • BIPe1: Peal & Co. Manuscripts, 'Orders received', 1848-52. 323
. BIPe1: Peal & Co. Manuscripts, 'Goods sent out', 1848-52. • BIPe1: Peal & Co. Manuscripts, 'Cash received', 1848-52. • BIPe1: Peal & Co. Manuscripts, 'Cash disboursed', 1848-52. Northampton Public Library • F3-83, box 31: Northampton, the chi ef shire-town pleasantly... • F3-90, box 31: The Blink-ey'd cobler. • F3-91, box 4: The cobler turn'd orattor. • F3-9 1, box 11: The Gentle Craft's complaint: or, the jolly shoe-maker humble petition... • F3-91, box 22.422: Tom Roberts, The learned cobbler, c. 1796. Public Record Office • Adm 49/35: Contracts, Abstracts of clothing, 1760-1798. • ASSI 63/5: Cash book of John Hitditch, shoe manufacturer of Nantiwich, 1822- 1838. • B 3/154: 12 November 1831. Bankruptcy of James Aspinall, Giltspur St., London. • B 3/294/5: 16 November 1802. Bankruptcy of Frederick Bryant, Holborn, Middlesex. • B 3/467: 31 March 1823. Bankruptcy of James Barrer, Crane Court, Fleet St., London. • B 3/965: 16 April 1822. Bankruptcy of John Chalmers, Holbom, Middlesex. • B 3/1059: 18 May 1826. Bankruptcy of John Mayes Clarke, Lower Marsh St., Lamberth, Surrey. • B 3/1234: 17 July 1837. Bankruptcy of William Crane, Wisbeth St. Peter's, Cambridge. • B 3/1626: 30 June 1829. Bankruptcy of William Edwards, Weals, Fleet St., London. • B 3/2358: 7 October 1824. Bankruptcy of Robert Baker Hanson, Bedford. • B 3/3118/9: 19 May 1831. Bankruptcy of John Pritchard Luke, Finsbury Place, Middlesex. • B 3/3781: 8 December 1831. Bankruptcy of Clement Negus, Stretham, Isle of Ely, Cambridge. • B 3/3740: 30 July 1829. Bankruptcy of Frederick Thomas Noyce, Richmond, 324
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Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
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"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
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This research would have not been c
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Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
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Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
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List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
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List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
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List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
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6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
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These are the theoretical reasons t
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concentrate on recent changes in th
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The use of the micro-analytic appro
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production are examined. The eighte
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industrial period. If we consider t
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inventories for the period 1788 to
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In the London Company the dissociat
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typology of products and producers,
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not yet completely mechanised) proc
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Part I of this thesis highlights th
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1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
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E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
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a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
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were tanning, currying and oil dres
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important centre for tanning and cu
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1/3 of the total export of French l
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Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
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England. These numbers, however, ha
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1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
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dark colour of the leather produced
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60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
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'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
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National leather market, abolishing
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leather. After the hide had been tr
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the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
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very low. In London a particular pr
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masters to employ journeymen who ha
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trade. It was also the formal recog
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inside the family business.' 17 Wom
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influence of new forces of change.'
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The purpose of part II of my thesis
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Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
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theme of standardisation and its re
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Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
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In the case of boots and shoes the
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limited, not in number but in value
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places like Petticoat Lane that, as
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with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
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should not think that ready-made sh
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Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
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-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
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120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
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As we will see in detail in the fol
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What can appear to us particularly
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C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
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According to Jean Morin, women's st
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Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
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Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
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will be going home on horseback".'
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Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
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Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
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Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
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Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
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silver and gold acquired from buckl
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Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
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One of the missing points in the di
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However French fashion became domin
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II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
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Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
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Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
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to be imposed "as being greatly con
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Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
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Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
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production.'° Symptomatic are the
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Moreover the expanding transoceanic
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Forty years later (circa 1760s and
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Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
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illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
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These new retailing systems were as
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Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
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4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
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Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
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Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
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Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
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Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
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Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
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Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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unning a small business, he had not
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Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
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V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
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Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
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Sir, We have this day received a le
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300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
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A series of letters had to be excha
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Corrections to the Account books as
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Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
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century and follow a well-establish
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evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
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show how the sector was neither sta
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a business carried out on a large s
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Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
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century, cordwainers represented in
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In the course of the century there
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Masters had to control journeymen i
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5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
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The most important information prov
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= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
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Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
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one shop. For the high-class shop i
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E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
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expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
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shoemakers who produced the entire
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Newgate Street in London for the "s
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estricted to only nine London shoem
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homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
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otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
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improved by the Leicestershire shoe
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important changes in productive pro
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Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
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Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
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Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
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The increase in shoe importation in
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St. James's in the London West End,
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As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
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In such a situation a long series o
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the more traditional productive env
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The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
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V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
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IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
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journeymen shoemakers also had to f
Page 290 and 291: the manufacture of English sole lea
Page 292 and 293: This analysis shows a new perspecti
Page 294 and 295: Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
Page 296 and 297: Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
Page 298 and 299: The real or apparent difference bet
Page 300 and 301: Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
Page 302 and 303: These changes rendered more difficu
Page 304 and 305: 6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
Page 306 and 307: 6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
Page 308 and 309: Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
Page 310 and 311: evolution' has presented new questi
Page 312 and 313: The separation of production and re
Page 314 and 315: French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
Page 316 and 317: eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
Page 318 and 319: espoke production was a widespread
Page 320 and 321: 6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
Page 322 and 323: 90 per cent of the men employed in
Page 324 and 325: 0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
Page 326 and 327: compared to other European states a
Page 328 and 329: underlined: many Parisian manufactu
Page 330 and 331: 1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
Page 332 and 333: integrating economic rationality, s
Page 334 and 335: extensive literature on guilds in F
Page 336 and 337: Bibliography
Page 338 and 339: . DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
Page 342 and 343: Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
Page 344 and 345: Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
Page 346 and 347: Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
Page 348 and 349: micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
Page 350 and 351: cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
Page 352 and 353: • Exposition publique des produit
Page 354 and 355: • Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
Page 356 and 357: cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
Page 358 and 359: Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
Page 360 and 361: • M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
Page 362 and 363: politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
Page 364 and 365: Deindustrialization and reindustria
Page 366 and 367: Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
Page 368 and 369: • A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
Page 370 and 371: • D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
Page 372 and 373: • V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
Page 374 and 375: • L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
Page 376 and 377: • E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
Page 378 and 379: commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
Page 380 and 381: • A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
Page 382 and 383: elations from the beginning of the
Page 384 and 385: • C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
Page 386 and 387: pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
Page 388 and 389: (Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
Page 390 and 391:
• A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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