The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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elations from the beginning of the nineteenth century (Revised Edition by F.W. Hirst, London: Mathuen & Co., 1912). • H.J. Porter, 'The Northampton boot and shoe arbitration board before 1914', Northamptonshire Past and Present, VI - 2 (1979), pp. 93-100. • H.J. Porter, 'The Northamptonshire arbitration board and the shoe industry dispute of 1887', Northamptonshire Past and Present, N - 3 (1968-9), pp. 149- 54. • R. Porter, English society in the Eighteenth Century (London: Penguin, 1982). • R. Price, British society, 1680-1 880. Dynamism, containment and change (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1999). • I.J. Prothero, Artisans and politics in early 1^-century London: John Gast and his time (London: Methuen, 1979). • I.J. Prothero, Radical artisans in England and France, 1830-1870 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1997). • J. Rancière, 'The myth of the artisan: critical reflections on a category of social history', in S.L. Kaplan and C.J. Koepp, eds., Work in France: representations, meaning, organization and practice (Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1986), pp. 317-34. • R. Tilden Rapp, Industry and economic decline in seventeenth-century Venice (Cambridge - Massachusetts: Harvard University Press, 1976). • B.M. Ratcliffe, 'Manufacturing in the metropolis: the dynamism and dynamics of Parisian industry at the mid-nineteenth century', Journal of European Economic History, XXffl —2 (1993), pp. 263-328. • W.M. Reddy, The rise of market culture: textile trade and French society (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1984). • W.B. Redfem, Royal and historical gloves and shoes (London: Mathuen & Co., 1904). • M. Reed, 'London and its hinterland, 1600-1800: the view from the provinces', in P. Clark and B. Lepetit, eds., Capital cities and their hinterlands in early modern Europe (Aldershot: Scolar Press, 1996), pp. 5 1-83. • P.C. Reynard, 'Manufacturing quality in the pre-industrial age: finding value in diversity', Economic History Review, Lifi - 3 (2000), pp. 493-536. • N.E. Rexford, Women's shoes in America, 1795-1930 (Kent - Ohio: Kent University Press, 2000). • A. Ribeiro, Fashion and the French revolution (New York: Batsford, 1988). • A. Ribeiro, 'Fashion in the eighteenth century: some Anglo-French comparisons', Textile History, XXII —2 (1991), pp. 329-45. • A. Ribeiro, The art of dress: fashion in England and France, 1750-1 820 (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1995). • A. Ribeiro, 'Muses and mythology: classic dress in British eighteenth-century female portraiture', in A. de la Haye and E. Wilson, Defining dress: dress as object, meaning and identity (Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1999), pp. 104-13. 365
• R.C. Richie, 'London and the process of economic growth since 1750', London Journal, XX - 1(1997), pp. 63-90. • D.E. Robinson, 'The styling and transmission of fashion historically considered', Journal of Economic History, XX -4 (1960), pp. 576-87. • D. Roche, The people of Paris. An essay in popular culture in the 18" century (Lemington Spa: Berg, 1987). • D. Roche, 'A pauper capital: some reflections on the Parisian poor in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries', French History, I - 2 (1987), pp. 182- 209. • D. Roche, The culture of clothing: dress and fashion in the 'ancien régime' (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1994). • D. Roche, 'Between a moral economy and a consumer economy: clothes and their function in the 17th and 18th centuries', in R. Fox and A. Turner, eds., Luxury trades and consumerism in ancien régime Paris (Aldershot: Ashgate, 1998), pp. 219-30. • D. Roche, Storia delle cose banali. La nascita del consumo in Occidente (Roma: Editori Riuniti, 1999). • R. Roehi, 'French industrialization: a reconsideration', Explorations in Economic History, Xffi (1976), pp. 233-8 1. • M.B. Rose, 'The family firm in British business, 1780-19 14', in M. Kirby and M.B. Rose, eds., Business enterprise in modern Britain from the eighteenth to the twentieth century (London and New York: Routledge, 1994), pp. 6 1-87. • L.N. Rosenband, 'The competitive cosmopolitanism of an Old Regime craft', French Historical Studies, XXffl —3 (2000), pp. 455-76. • A. Rotouis, Histoire de la cordonnerie précédée de l'histoire de la chaussure depuis les temps plus reculés jusqu'en 1830 par Alphonse Duchesne (Paris: 1886). • G. Rude, Paris and London in the 18" century (London: Fontana, 1952). • J.P. Roux, La chaussure (Paris: Atelier Machette, 1980). • W.W. Rostow, The stages of economic growth. A non-communist manifesto (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1960). • Rubber and Footwear (London: Rubber Growers' Association, 1926). • M. Rudoiphe, 'L'industrie parisienne de la chaussure', Bulletin de la Société d'études historiques, géographiques et scientfiques de la region parisienne, vol. Cil-Cifi (1959), pp. 1-12. • J. Rule, The experience of labour in eighteenth-century industry (London: Croom Helm, 1981). • J. Rule, Albion's people: English society, 1714-1815 (London: Longman, 1992). • C. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Historical alternatives to mass production. Politics, markets and technology in nineteenth-century industrialization', Past and Present, CVffl (1985), pp. 133-76. 366
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Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
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"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
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This research would have not been c
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Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
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Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
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List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
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List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
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List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
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6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
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These are the theoretical reasons t
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concentrate on recent changes in th
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The use of the micro-analytic appro
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production are examined. The eighte
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industrial period. If we consider t
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inventories for the period 1788 to
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In the London Company the dissociat
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typology of products and producers,
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not yet completely mechanised) proc
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Part I of this thesis highlights th
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1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
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E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
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a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
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were tanning, currying and oil dres
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important centre for tanning and cu
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1/3 of the total export of French l
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Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
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England. These numbers, however, ha
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1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
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dark colour of the leather produced
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60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
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'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
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National leather market, abolishing
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leather. After the hide had been tr
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the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
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very low. In London a particular pr
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masters to employ journeymen who ha
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trade. It was also the formal recog
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inside the family business.' 17 Wom
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influence of new forces of change.'
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The purpose of part II of my thesis
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Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
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theme of standardisation and its re
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Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
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In the case of boots and shoes the
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limited, not in number but in value
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places like Petticoat Lane that, as
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with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
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should not think that ready-made sh
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Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
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-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
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120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
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As we will see in detail in the fol
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What can appear to us particularly
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C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
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According to Jean Morin, women's st
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Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
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Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
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will be going home on horseback".'
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Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
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Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
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Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
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Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
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silver and gold acquired from buckl
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Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
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One of the missing points in the di
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However French fashion became domin
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II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
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Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
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Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
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to be imposed "as being greatly con
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Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
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Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
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production.'° Symptomatic are the
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Moreover the expanding transoceanic
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Forty years later (circa 1760s and
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Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
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illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
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These new retailing systems were as
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Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
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4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
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Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
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Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
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Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
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Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
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Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
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Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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unning a small business, he had not
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Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
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V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
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Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
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Sir, We have this day received a le
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300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
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A series of letters had to be excha
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Corrections to the Account books as
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Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
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century and follow a well-establish
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evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
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show how the sector was neither sta
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a business carried out on a large s
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Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
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century, cordwainers represented in
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In the course of the century there
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Masters had to control journeymen i
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5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
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The most important information prov
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= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
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Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
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one shop. For the high-class shop i
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E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
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expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
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shoemakers who produced the entire
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Newgate Street in London for the "s
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estricted to only nine London shoem
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homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
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otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
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improved by the Leicestershire shoe
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important changes in productive pro
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Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
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Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
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Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
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The increase in shoe importation in
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St. James's in the London West End,
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As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
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In such a situation a long series o
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the more traditional productive env
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The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
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V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
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IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
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journeymen shoemakers also had to f
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the manufacture of English sole lea
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This analysis shows a new perspecti
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Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
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Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
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The real or apparent difference bet
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Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
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These changes rendered more difficu
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6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
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6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
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Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
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evolution' has presented new questi
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The separation of production and re
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French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
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eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
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espoke production was a widespread
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6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
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90 per cent of the men employed in
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0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
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compared to other European states a
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underlined: many Parisian manufactu
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1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
Page 332 and 333: integrating economic rationality, s
Page 334 and 335: extensive literature on guilds in F
Page 336 and 337: Bibliography
Page 338 and 339: . DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
Page 340 and 341: 1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
Page 342 and 343: Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
Page 344 and 345: Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
Page 346 and 347: Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
Page 348 and 349: micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
Page 350 and 351: cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
Page 352 and 353: • Exposition publique des produit
Page 354 and 355: • Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
Page 356 and 357: cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
Page 358 and 359: Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
Page 360 and 361: • M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
Page 362 and 363: politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
Page 364 and 365: Deindustrialization and reindustria
Page 366 and 367: Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
Page 368 and 369: • A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
Page 370 and 371: • D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
Page 372 and 373: • V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
Page 374 and 375: • L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
Page 376 and 377: • E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
Page 378 and 379: commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
Page 380 and 381: • A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
Page 384 and 385: • C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
Page 386 and 387: pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
Page 388 and 389: (Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
Page 390 and 391: • A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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