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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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manufactur<strong>in</strong>g activities with<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> City walls for reasons associated to public<br />

health. 25 Curriers were less localised. In 1822 only 1/6 of <strong>London</strong> curriers were<br />

south of <strong>the</strong> river.26<br />

<strong>The</strong> French lea<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong>dustry was, if compared to <strong>the</strong> British equivalent,<br />

extremely scattered dur<strong>in</strong>g most <strong>the</strong> eighteenth century. <strong>Paris</strong> was not <strong>the</strong> only<br />

centre of lea<strong>the</strong>r production <strong>and</strong> manufacture <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> K<strong>in</strong>gdom. However, changes<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> legislation <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>g size of <strong>the</strong> French capital, made <strong>Paris</strong> a pivotal<br />

lea<strong>the</strong>r market (see also paragraph 1.6.1). In 1755, for <strong>in</strong>stance, <strong>the</strong> manufacture of<br />

Sa<strong>in</strong>t-Germa<strong>in</strong> obta<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>the</strong> right to open <strong>in</strong> <strong>Paris</strong> a depot to sell <strong>the</strong>ir lea<strong>the</strong>r. This<br />

particular right was granted because of <strong>the</strong> high quality lea<strong>the</strong>r produced <strong>in</strong> Sa<strong>in</strong>t-<br />

Germa<strong>in</strong>. 27 It was also part of a series of measures that cont<strong>in</strong>ued over <strong>the</strong><br />

n<strong>in</strong>eteenth century <strong>in</strong> order to <strong>in</strong>crease not only <strong>the</strong> scale of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Paris</strong>ian lea<strong>the</strong>r<br />

market, but also its quality. 28 <strong>Paris</strong> seemed <strong>in</strong> fact not to be able to co-ord<strong>in</strong>ate <strong>the</strong><br />

entire national lea<strong>the</strong>r market <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> way <strong>London</strong> did. In 1788 <strong>the</strong> French capital<br />

had, among its 937 établissements de commerce fabrique, only 14 lea<strong>the</strong>r dressers<br />

<strong>and</strong> 28 tanneries. Most tanneries supply<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> French capital were concentrated <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Paris</strong>h of Sa<strong>in</strong>t Médard. Here were <strong>the</strong> biggest tanneries <strong>in</strong> <strong>Paris</strong> <strong>and</strong> probably<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> whole k<strong>in</strong>gdom. In 1732, on a total of 13 local <strong>Paris</strong>h Jurés, seven were<br />

tanners <strong>and</strong> five were lea<strong>the</strong>r dressers. 29 Most of <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r lea<strong>the</strong>r bus<strong>in</strong>esses <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>Paris</strong> had very small scale <strong>and</strong> figures suggest that <strong>the</strong> three decades preced<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong><br />

Revolution saw a decl<strong>in</strong>e of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Paris</strong>ian lea<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong>dustry.30<br />

Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> Revolution <strong>Paris</strong> acquired aga<strong>in</strong> a key role <strong>in</strong> lea<strong>the</strong>r commerce. In<br />

order to co-ord<strong>in</strong>ate extensive military supplies, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Paris</strong>ian lea<strong>the</strong>r market was<br />

considered necessary to produce shoes <strong>and</strong> saddlery. In 1793, for <strong>in</strong>stance, De<br />

Berteval proposed to force prov<strong>in</strong>cial producers to sell <strong>in</strong> <strong>Paris</strong> at least 2/3 of <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

production <strong>in</strong> green lea<strong>the</strong>r. 3' In <strong>the</strong> late 1810s <strong>and</strong> early 1820s <strong>Paris</strong> counted for<br />

J.H. Clapham, An economic history of modern Brita<strong>in</strong> (Cambridge, 1926-39), vol. iii, p. 170.<br />

J. Statham, '<strong>The</strong> location <strong>and</strong> development of <strong>London</strong>'s lea<strong>the</strong>r manufactur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>dustry', cit., p.<br />

81.<br />

v AN ADIX 22: untitled manuscript.<br />

28<br />

Annuaire general du commerce et de l'<strong>in</strong>dustrie, de la magistrature et de ladm<strong>in</strong>istration<br />

(<strong>Paris</strong>, 1840), p. lxi.<br />

29 D Garrioch, <strong>The</strong> formation of <strong>the</strong> <strong>Paris</strong>ian bourgeoisie, 1690-1 830 (Harvard, 1996), p. 58.<br />

°<br />

B. Gille, Documents sur l'état de l'<strong>in</strong>dustrie et du commerce de <strong>Paris</strong> et du Department de Ia<br />

Se<strong>in</strong>e (1778-1810) (<strong>Paris</strong>, 1963), p. 58.<br />

J.A. Rubigny de Berteval, Observations importantes, cit., p. 23.<br />

31

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