The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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4.20 - Snip's warehouse for ready made cloath, caricature, 1791 202 6.1 - Pair of early nineteenth-century women's shoes 277 6.2 - Shoe produced by William Cooper, Chancery Lane, c. 1750 279 6.3 - Set of four pairs of women's shoes, c. 1820 280 6.4 - Left vs. right women's shoes, c. 1820 282 6.5 - Straigth and left-rights shoes, 1820-1840 283 6.6 - Lady's shoe produced by Viault Esté, 1840s 286 xvi
6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London in 1794 AN - Archives Nationales de France AP - Archives de Paris BL - British Library BM - British Museum BN - Bibliothèque Nationale de France List of maps List of abbreviations CLRO - Corporation of London Record Office GL - Guildhall Library, Corporation of London LMA - London Metropolitan Archive NFL - Northampton Public Library PRO - Public Record Office ROM - Royal Ontario Museum xvii 264
Page 1 and 2: Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
Page 3 and 4: "A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
Page 5 and 6: This research would have not been c
Page 7 and 8: Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
Page 9 and 10: Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
Page 11 and 12: List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
Page 13 and 14: List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
Page 15: List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
Page 19 and 20: These are the theoretical reasons t
Page 21 and 22: concentrate on recent changes in th
Page 23 and 24: The use of the micro-analytic appro
Page 25 and 26: production are examined. The eighte
Page 27 and 28: industrial period. If we consider t
Page 29 and 30: inventories for the period 1788 to
Page 31 and 32: In the London Company the dissociat
Page 33 and 34: typology of products and producers,
Page 35 and 36: not yet completely mechanised) proc
Page 37 and 38: Part I of this thesis highlights th
Page 39 and 40: 1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
Page 41 and 42: E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
Page 43 and 44: a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
Page 45 and 46: were tanning, currying and oil dres
Page 47 and 48: important centre for tanning and cu
Page 49 and 50: 1/3 of the total export of French l
Page 51 and 52: Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
Page 53 and 54: England. These numbers, however, ha
Page 55 and 56: 1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
Page 57 and 58: dark colour of the leather produced
Page 59 and 60: 60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
Page 61 and 62: '1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
Page 63 and 64: National leather market, abolishing
Page 65 and 66: leather. After the hide had been tr
Page 67 and 68:
the revolutionary government mainta
Page 69 and 70:
trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
Page 71 and 72:
gave substantial financial aid to t
Page 73 and 74:
Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
Page 75 and 76:
through technological and organisat
Page 77 and 78:
saddlemakers and others who were pa
Page 79 and 80:
of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
Page 81 and 82:
models are related only to a rural
Page 83 and 84:
stratification of the workshop over
Page 85 and 86:
900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
Page 87 and 88:
in all the periods considered. 52 S
Page 89 and 90:
same chain of production, such as b
Page 91 and 92:
eality life in the master's househo
Page 93 and 94:
their respective trades.73 In cordw
Page 95 and 96:
membership of the company and the e
Page 97 and 98:
very low. In London a particular pr
Page 99 and 100:
masters to employ journeymen who ha
Page 101 and 102:
trade. It was also the formal recog
Page 103 and 104:
inside the family business.' 17 Wom
Page 105 and 106:
influence of new forces of change.'
Page 107 and 108:
The purpose of part II of my thesis
Page 109 and 110:
Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
Page 111 and 112:
theme of standardisation and its re
Page 113 and 114:
Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
Page 115 and 116:
In the case of boots and shoes the
Page 117 and 118:
limited, not in number but in value
Page 119 and 120:
places like Petticoat Lane that, as
Page 121 and 122:
with a total amount of £9,073 valu
Page 123 and 124:
600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
Page 125 and 126:
should not think that ready-made sh
Page 127 and 128:
Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
Page 129 and 130:
-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
Page 131 and 132:
120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
Page 133 and 134:
As we will see in detail in the fol
Page 135 and 136:
What can appear to us particularly
Page 137 and 138:
C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
Page 139 and 140:
According to Jean Morin, women's st
Page 141 and 142:
Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
Page 143 and 144:
Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
Page 145 and 146:
will be going home on horseback".'
Page 147 and 148:
Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
Page 149 and 150:
Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
Page 151 and 152:
Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
Page 153 and 154:
Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
Page 155 and 156:
silver and gold acquired from buckl
Page 157 and 158:
Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
Page 159 and 160:
One of the missing points in the di
Page 161 and 162:
However French fashion became domin
Page 163 and 164:
II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
Page 165 and 166:
Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
Page 167 and 168:
Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
Page 169 and 170:
to be imposed "as being greatly con
Page 171 and 172:
Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
Page 173 and 174:
Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
Page 175 and 176:
production.'° Symptomatic are the
Page 177 and 178:
Moreover the expanding transoceanic
Page 179 and 180:
Forty years later (circa 1760s and
Page 181 and 182:
Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
Page 183 and 184:
illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
Page 185 and 186:
These new retailing systems were as
Page 187 and 188:
Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
Page 189 and 190:
4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
Page 191 and 192:
Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
Page 193 and 194:
Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
Page 195 and 196:
Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
Page 197 and 198:
Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
Page 199 and 200:
Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
Page 201 and 202:
Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
Page 203 and 204:
unning a small business, he had not
Page 205 and 206:
Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
Page 207 and 208:
V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
Page 209 and 210:
Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
Page 211 and 212:
Sir, We have this day received a le
Page 213 and 214:
300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
Page 215 and 216:
A series of letters had to be excha
Page 217 and 218:
Corrections to the Account books as
Page 219 and 220:
Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
Page 221 and 222:
century and follow a well-establish
Page 223 and 224:
evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
Page 225 and 226:
show how the sector was neither sta
Page 227 and 228:
a business carried out on a large s
Page 229 and 230:
Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
Page 231 and 232:
century, cordwainers represented in
Page 233 and 234:
In the course of the century there
Page 235 and 236:
Masters had to control journeymen i
Page 237 and 238:
5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
Page 239 and 240:
The most important information prov
Page 241 and 242:
= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
Page 243 and 244:
Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
Page 245 and 246:
one shop. For the high-class shop i
Page 247 and 248:
E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
Page 249 and 250:
expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
Page 251 and 252:
shoemakers who produced the entire
Page 253 and 254:
Newgate Street in London for the "s
Page 255 and 256:
estricted to only nine London shoem
Page 257 and 258:
homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
Page 259 and 260:
otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
Page 261 and 262:
improved by the Leicestershire shoe
Page 263 and 264:
important changes in productive pro
Page 265 and 266:
Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
Page 267 and 268:
Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
Page 269 and 270:
Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
Page 271 and 272:
The increase in shoe importation in
Page 273 and 274:
St. James's in the London West End,
Page 275 and 276:
As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
Page 278 and 279:
In such a situation a long series o
Page 280 and 281:
the more traditional productive env
Page 282 and 283:
The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
Page 284 and 285:
V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
Page 286 and 287:
IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
Page 288 and 289:
journeymen shoemakers also had to f
Page 290 and 291:
the manufacture of English sole lea
Page 292 and 293:
This analysis shows a new perspecti
Page 294 and 295:
Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
Page 296 and 297:
Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
Page 298 and 299:
The real or apparent difference bet
Page 300 and 301:
Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
Page 302 and 303:
These changes rendered more difficu
Page 304 and 305:
6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
Page 306 and 307:
6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
Page 308 and 309:
Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
Page 310 and 311:
evolution' has presented new questi
Page 312 and 313:
The separation of production and re
Page 314 and 315:
French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
Page 316 and 317:
eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
Page 318 and 319:
espoke production was a widespread
Page 320 and 321:
6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
Page 322 and 323:
90 per cent of the men employed in
Page 324 and 325:
0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
Page 326 and 327:
compared to other European states a
Page 328 and 329:
underlined: many Parisian manufactu
Page 330 and 331:
1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
Page 332 and 333:
integrating economic rationality, s
Page 334 and 335:
extensive literature on guilds in F
Page 336 and 337:
Bibliography
Page 338 and 339:
. DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
Page 340 and 341:
1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
Page 342 and 343:
Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
Page 344 and 345:
Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
Page 346 and 347:
Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
Page 348 and 349:
micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
Page 350 and 351:
cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
Page 352 and 353:
• Exposition publique des produit
Page 354 and 355:
• Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
Page 356 and 357:
cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
Page 358 and 359:
Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
Page 360 and 361:
• M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
Page 362 and 363:
politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
Page 364 and 365:
Deindustrialization and reindustria
Page 366 and 367:
Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
Page 368 and 369:
• A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
Page 370 and 371:
• D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
Page 372 and 373:
• V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
Page 374 and 375:
• L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
Page 376 and 377:
• E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
Page 378 and 379:
commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
Page 380 and 381:
• A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
Page 382 and 383:
elations from the beginning of the
Page 384 and 385:
• C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
Page 386 and 387:
pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
Page 388 and 389:
(Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
Page 390 and 391:
• A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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