The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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• A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The handicrafts of France as recorded in the Description des Arts etMétiers 1761-1 788 (Boston: Baker Library, 1952). • Guildhall Library, Catalogue of manuscripts of the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers (City of London Libraries, 1994). • B. Gille, Les sources statistiques de l'histoire de la France des enquêtes du XVIlme siècle a 1879 (Paris: Minard, 1964). • C.W.F. Goss, The London directories, 1677-1 855. A bibliography with notes on their origin and development (London: Denis Archer, 1932). • Guide to sources for British history: textiles and leather (London: National Archives System, 1990). • C. Harvey, 'Business records at the Public Record Office', Business Archives, LI (1985), pp. 1-12. • V.A. Hartley, A basic reading list on the history of the Northamptonshire shoe manufacturing industry (Northampton: The Library College of Technology, 1971). • H. Filler, M. Hiler, Bibliography of costume. A dictionary catalogue of about eight thousand books and periodicals (New York: H.W. Wilson Company, 1939). • R. Lecotté, Essai bibliographique sur les compagnonnages de tous les devoirs du Tour de France et associations ouvrières aforme initiatique (Paris: offprint, 1951). • T. Rath, 'Business Records in the Public Record Office in the Age of the Industrial Revolution', Business History, XVII— 1 (1975), pp. 189-200. • S.G. Roberts and L.A. Ritchie, 'Record of British business and industry, 1760- 19 14: textiles and leather', Textile History, XXI - 2 (1990), pp. 245-9. • W. Smart, Economic annals of the jç/h century: 1800-1820 (London: Macmillan, 1913). • W. Smart, Economic annals of the l^ century: 1820-1 830 (London: Macmillan, 1917). Unpublished theses and papers • M. Berg, 'French fancy and cool Britannia: the fashionable markets of early modem Europe' (Unpublished paper, XXXII Settimana di Studi, Istituto internazionale di Storia Economica F. Datini, Prato, 8-12 May 2000). • D.M. Brooks, 'The growth of post school education and technical training in Northamptonshire: the boot and shoe trade' (M. Ed. Thesis, Leicester University, 1970). • S.R. Epstein, 'Journeymen mobility and markets in skilled labour in Europe, 14th - 18th centuries' (Unpublished paper presented at the LSE Postgraduate Seminar in Economic History, January 2001). 373
• A. Federer, 'Payment, credit and the organization of work in eighteenth century Westminster' (Unpublished paper presented at the SSRC Conference on 'Manufacture in Town and Country before the Factory' - Oxford, September 1980). • A. Federer, 'Westminster tradesman in the world of goods, c. 1680-1800' (Unpublished paper presented at the Center for 17th and 1 8thcentury Studies - Wright State University, January 1989). • N.P. Garrod, 'The Northamptonshire shoe industry and the strikes against the introduction of machinery into the trade in 1857-8-9' (Loughborough University of Technology, 1978). • J. Greenfield, 'Technology and gender divisions of labour in the boot and shoe industry 1850-1911' (Unpublished Ph.D. thesis, University of Warwick, 1998). • E. Lindberg, 'Urban privileges and corporate groups in Stockholm, 1820-1846' (Unpublished paper presented at the ESTER Seminar, Lisbon, February 2000). • C.P. Sargent, 'A geographical study of the boot and shoe trade of England' (M.Sc. Thesis in Geography, University College London, 1931). • B.R. Smith, 'The apprentices of London, 1640-1660. A study of a revolutionary youth sub-culture' (Vanderbilt University History Ph.D., 1971). • J. Statham, 'The location and development of London leather manufacturing industry since the early nineteenth century' (MA in Geography, University of London, 1965). • P.N. Sutton, 'Metropolitan artisans and the discourse of the trade, c. 1750- 1825' (Unpublished Ph.D. thesis, University of Essex, 1994). 374 RL Wit
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Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
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"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
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This research would have not been c
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Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
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Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
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List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
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List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
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List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
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6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
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These are the theoretical reasons t
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concentrate on recent changes in th
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The use of the micro-analytic appro
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production are examined. The eighte
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industrial period. If we consider t
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inventories for the period 1788 to
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In the London Company the dissociat
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typology of products and producers,
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not yet completely mechanised) proc
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Part I of this thesis highlights th
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1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
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E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
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a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
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were tanning, currying and oil dres
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important centre for tanning and cu
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1/3 of the total export of French l
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Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
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England. These numbers, however, ha
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1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
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dark colour of the leather produced
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60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
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'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
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National leather market, abolishing
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leather. After the hide had been tr
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the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
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very low. In London a particular pr
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masters to employ journeymen who ha
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trade. It was also the formal recog
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inside the family business.' 17 Wom
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influence of new forces of change.'
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The purpose of part II of my thesis
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Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
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theme of standardisation and its re
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Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
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In the case of boots and shoes the
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limited, not in number but in value
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places like Petticoat Lane that, as
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with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
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should not think that ready-made sh
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Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
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-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
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120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
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As we will see in detail in the fol
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What can appear to us particularly
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C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
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According to Jean Morin, women's st
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Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
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Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
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will be going home on horseback".'
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Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
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Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
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Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
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Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
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silver and gold acquired from buckl
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Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
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One of the missing points in the di
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However French fashion became domin
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II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
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Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
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Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
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to be imposed "as being greatly con
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Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
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Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
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production.'° Symptomatic are the
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Moreover the expanding transoceanic
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Forty years later (circa 1760s and
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Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
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illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
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These new retailing systems were as
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Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
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4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
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Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
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Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
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Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
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Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
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Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
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Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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unning a small business, he had not
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Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
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V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
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Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
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Sir, We have this day received a le
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300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
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A series of letters had to be excha
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Corrections to the Account books as
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Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
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century and follow a well-establish
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evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
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show how the sector was neither sta
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a business carried out on a large s
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Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
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century, cordwainers represented in
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In the course of the century there
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Masters had to control journeymen i
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5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
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The most important information prov
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= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
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Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
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one shop. For the high-class shop i
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E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
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expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
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shoemakers who produced the entire
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Newgate Street in London for the "s
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estricted to only nine London shoem
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homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
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otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
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improved by the Leicestershire shoe
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important changes in productive pro
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Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
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Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
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Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
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The increase in shoe importation in
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St. James's in the London West End,
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As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
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In such a situation a long series o
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the more traditional productive env
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The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
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V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
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IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
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journeymen shoemakers also had to f
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the manufacture of English sole lea
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This analysis shows a new perspecti
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Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
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Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
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The real or apparent difference bet
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Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
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These changes rendered more difficu
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6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
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6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
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Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
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evolution' has presented new questi
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The separation of production and re
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French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
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eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
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espoke production was a widespread
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6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
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90 per cent of the men employed in
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0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
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compared to other European states a
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underlined: many Parisian manufactu
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1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
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integrating economic rationality, s
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extensive literature on guilds in F
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Bibliography
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. DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
Page 340 and 341: 1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
Page 342 and 343: Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
Page 344 and 345: Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
Page 346 and 347: Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
Page 348 and 349: micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
Page 350 and 351: cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
Page 352 and 353: • Exposition publique des produit
Page 354 and 355: • Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
Page 356 and 357: cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
Page 358 and 359: Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
Page 360 and 361: • M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
Page 362 and 363: politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
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Page 366 and 367: Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
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Page 370 and 371: • D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
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Page 386 and 387: pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
Page 388 and 389: (Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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