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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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<strong>The</strong> separation of production <strong>and</strong> retail<strong>in</strong>g was partially due to promis<strong>in</strong>g affairs<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> prov<strong>in</strong>ces. In opposition to <strong>the</strong> British experience <strong>in</strong> which prov<strong>in</strong>cial<br />

shoes <strong>in</strong>vaded <strong>the</strong> metropolis, <strong>in</strong> France it was <strong>Paris</strong>ian footwear to be sold <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

prov<strong>in</strong>ces. An important case of a relationship between <strong>Paris</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> prov<strong>in</strong>ces<br />

was <strong>the</strong> bus<strong>in</strong>ess carried out at <strong>the</strong> beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g of <strong>the</strong> n<strong>in</strong>eteenth century by Pierre<br />

Raison <strong>and</strong> his wife. <strong>The</strong>y had a shoe shop <strong>in</strong> rue des Fossés Montmartre. From<br />

<strong>the</strong> shop <strong>in</strong>ventory it appeared to be a substantial shop with 10,000 francs worth<br />

of goods <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> shop, ano<strong>the</strong>r 5,500 francs as stock, 1,000 francs worth of<br />

material (ma<strong>in</strong>ly boot legs <strong>and</strong> soles) <strong>and</strong> 2,500 francs worth of <strong>the</strong> shop fitt<strong>in</strong>gs.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Raisons had also extensive debts, 20,000 francs of which were owed to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

suppliers of lea<strong>the</strong>rs. Even more <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g is <strong>the</strong> fact that <strong>the</strong> Raisons did not<br />

produce for <strong>the</strong> <strong>Paris</strong>ian market. Most of <strong>the</strong>ir trade was with <strong>the</strong> prov<strong>in</strong>ces. In<br />

Anverse, for <strong>in</strong>stance, a certa<strong>in</strong> Mr Grouncé was <strong>the</strong>ir agent. Similarly <strong>in</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

parts of France <strong>the</strong>y had "commissionaires commis voyageurs qui lui<br />

procurerent en effect beaucoup de relations et d'affaires". Such agents were<br />

paid 5 per cent of <strong>the</strong> value of <strong>the</strong> goods sold. <strong>The</strong>y were ma<strong>in</strong>ly local<br />

'merchants', middlemen such as Mr Savior, a March<strong>and</strong> of Qu<strong>in</strong>per or Mr<br />

Quriel, a March<strong>and</strong> de La Rochelle. <strong>The</strong> Raisons were partially produc<strong>in</strong>g at<br />

home <strong>and</strong> partially buy<strong>in</strong>g when large stocks were required. Surpris<strong>in</strong>gly <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

bus<strong>in</strong>ess prospered even if both Mr Raison <strong>and</strong> his wife were unable to read <strong>and</strong><br />

write.'4<br />

A couple of decades later, <strong>the</strong> Nouvelle Encyclopédie des arts et métiers<br />

(1824) underl<strong>in</strong>ed how it was becom<strong>in</strong>g common practise <strong>in</strong> shoemak<strong>in</strong>g to<br />

separate production from retail<strong>in</strong>g. This was caused by <strong>the</strong> high cost of rent<strong>in</strong>g a<br />

centrally-located space <strong>in</strong> <strong>Paris</strong>. This was particularly true for <strong>the</strong> centre of <strong>Paris</strong><br />

(table 7.1). In <strong>the</strong> outer arrondissements, on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r h<strong>and</strong>, rents were still very<br />

low <strong>and</strong> retail<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> production were still comb<strong>in</strong>ed.' 5 <strong>The</strong> most famous<br />

shoemakers <strong>in</strong> <strong>Paris</strong>, as <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> West End of <strong>London</strong>, were concentrated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

central <strong>and</strong> fashionable districts near <strong>the</strong> Louvre: Ge<strong>in</strong>tzer <strong>in</strong> rue du Colombier,<br />

Callem<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> rue Sa<strong>in</strong>t-Denis, Michiels <strong>in</strong> boulevard des Ba<strong>in</strong>s-Ch<strong>in</strong>ois,<br />

Desjeans <strong>in</strong> rue Richelieu, Rouillé Jeune <strong>in</strong> rue Vivienne e Hubert <strong>in</strong> rue Sa<strong>in</strong>t-<br />

AP, D 11 U 3 cart 40 2582: 'Raison Pierre et femme, 13th October 1807'.<br />

' Ibid.<br />

295

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