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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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one shop. For <strong>the</strong> high-class shop it meant <strong>the</strong> possibility of choice; for <strong>the</strong> fast-<br />

sell<strong>in</strong>g shop it meant more customers. <strong>The</strong> 50,000 pairs of shoes <strong>in</strong> stock<br />

advertised by Olivers were not only an assurance that every need could be<br />

satisfied, but also that every <strong>in</strong>dividual person could be served.53<br />

This leads us towards an aspect of consumer history that has not yet been<br />

fully <strong>in</strong>vestigated. Consumption is always considered as an act of a s<strong>in</strong>gle person<br />

(carefully connoted with<strong>in</strong> class, gender, place of residence) towards a group or<br />

system of objects. In my exam<strong>in</strong>ation of boot <strong>and</strong> shoe consumption <strong>and</strong> its<br />

connection with retail<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> production, it appears tLf <strong>the</strong> opposite<br />

relationship is equally important: how a group or system of people relates to a<br />

s<strong>in</strong>gle object (dist<strong>in</strong>guished <strong>in</strong> variety). 54 A wide range of different shoes or<br />

boots was provided by a s<strong>in</strong>gle shop because of <strong>the</strong> 'family' nature of <strong>the</strong><br />

customer. If bills or daybooks are exam<strong>in</strong>ed it appears i% entire families or<br />

households were supplied by one shoemaker. This depended on <strong>the</strong> eas<strong>in</strong>ess of<br />

hav<strong>in</strong>g one ma<strong>in</strong> supplier <strong>and</strong> by 'economies of specialisation' of consumption.<br />

<strong>The</strong> family, as a unit of consumption, has not yet deserved <strong>the</strong> attention of<br />

historians <strong>in</strong>terested <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> dynamics of change of social <strong>and</strong> material practises.55<br />

If <strong>the</strong> late seventeenth <strong>and</strong> eighteenth centuries saw <strong>the</strong> birth of restricted<br />

households dom<strong>in</strong>ated by strong affective bonds, <strong>the</strong> implications that such<br />

changes had on consumption are not yet clear. From a producer's po<strong>in</strong>t of view,<br />

retail<strong>in</strong>g provided an efficient way of recomb<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g production <strong>in</strong> order to satisfy<br />

shift<strong>in</strong>g consumers' needs. It can be argued that retail<strong>in</strong>g is an important field of<br />

study, especially for its l<strong>in</strong>ks both with production <strong>and</strong> consumption.<br />

When <strong>the</strong> division between production, wholesale <strong>and</strong> retail<strong>in</strong>g is exam<strong>in</strong>ed,<br />

we f<strong>in</strong>d that it is difficult to dist<strong>in</strong>guish middlemen form from organisational<br />

structures with multi-layers of subcontractors. <strong>The</strong> recourse to <strong>the</strong> market was<br />

fairly common <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> eighteenth century to provide part of <strong>the</strong> merch<strong>and</strong>ise on<br />

sale. For part of <strong>the</strong> spectrum of products <strong>the</strong> shoemaker was simply a retailer,<br />

although with <strong>the</strong> advantage to be actively <strong>in</strong>volved <strong>in</strong> production <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>refore<br />

able to judge <strong>the</strong> quality of products bought from wholesalers or from o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

Ibid., 'Trade card of Olivers. New<strong>in</strong>gton Causeway, <strong>London</strong>, c. 1830'.<br />

V. De Grazia, 'Introduction', <strong>in</strong> V. De Grazia <strong>and</strong> E. Furlough, eds., <strong>The</strong> sex of th<strong>in</strong>gs:<br />

gender <strong>and</strong> consumption <strong>in</strong> historical perspective (Berkeley, 1996), pp. 8-9.<br />

228

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