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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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<strong>in</strong>fluence of new forces of change.' 29 <strong>The</strong> family created anew some of its<br />

character : journeymen found it <strong>in</strong>creas<strong>in</strong>gly harder to become masters <strong>and</strong><br />

started to set up bus<strong>in</strong>esses outside <strong>the</strong> company's rules. In <strong>the</strong> same way <strong>the</strong><br />

role of women changed. <strong>The</strong>y retracted completely <strong>in</strong>to an '<strong>in</strong>clusive productive<br />

sphere', which was part of <strong>the</strong> household production.<br />

In <strong>London</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>Paris</strong> <strong>the</strong> companies applied different strategies <strong>in</strong> try<strong>in</strong>g to<br />

resist los<strong>in</strong>g control over <strong>the</strong>ir trade. In <strong>London</strong> <strong>the</strong> Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers' Company<br />

recognised <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> family structure a safe environment <strong>in</strong> which to exercise<br />

control, try<strong>in</strong>g to control <strong>the</strong> trade by flexibility, ra<strong>the</strong>r than by brak<strong>in</strong>g it. <strong>The</strong><br />

company promoted supervised access, ra<strong>the</strong>r than be<strong>in</strong>g overwhelmed by <strong>the</strong><br />

unregulated part of <strong>the</strong> market. New distributive <strong>and</strong> productive structures,<br />

however, could only with difficulty be conta<strong>in</strong>ed ei<strong>the</strong>r <strong>in</strong>side <strong>the</strong> boundaries of<br />

small-scale family bus<strong>in</strong>esses, or with<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> guild system. By <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong><br />

eighteenth century <strong>the</strong> Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers' Company, <strong>in</strong> parallel with <strong>the</strong> experience of<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r livery companies, retreated to a defensive ra<strong>the</strong>r than an active economic<br />

role.' 3° In <strong>Paris</strong> <strong>the</strong> Compagnie was shaped by choices imposed by <strong>the</strong> political<br />

authority. Control <strong>and</strong> imposition of rules prevented <strong>the</strong> creation of new <strong>and</strong> more<br />

dynamic productive <strong>and</strong> retail<strong>in</strong>g bus<strong>in</strong>esses. Only with <strong>the</strong> Revolution <strong>the</strong><br />

structure of <strong>the</strong> trade radically changed.<br />

' 29 1K Ben-Amos, 'Failure to become freemen', cit., p. 165.<br />

130 See G.D. Ramsay, 'Victorian historiography <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> Guilds of <strong>London</strong>: <strong>the</strong> report of <strong>the</strong><br />

Royal Commission on <strong>the</strong> Liveries Companies of <strong>London</strong>, 1884', <strong>London</strong> Journal, X - 2 (1984),<br />

pp. 155-66.<br />

88

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