The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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The risk is to interpret retail in a passive perspective: the means to acquire a perfect equilibrium between demand and offer. If we accept Roy Church's claim for the existence of a 'marketing concept' in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, retailing cannot be interpreted as an 'allocative function'.4 It has to be considered a key factor in the understanding and satisfaction of customers' needs. 5 Retailing is therefore a function in marketing and marketing strategy. What can be said from an historical point of view? History of retailing has been in the last few years a very dynamic field of study. It is no longer the historical analysis of practices, shops or products. It appears, instead, as a historical investigation of the rationalities and strategic actions oi. consumers, producers and retailers.6 This chapter aims to examine the changes occurring during the eighteenth and early nineteenth century in shoe retailing in London. 7 During much of the eighteenth century production and retailing of shoes were combined under the productive unit of the workshop. In the family house, the place where production was carried out was not separated from the selling area in the front part of the building. This was a bespoke system where annual account settlements and a restricted number of customers maintained the scale of the activity within the financial and productive boundaries of the family itself. Great importance was given to measuring, providing goods for individual customers (illustration 4.1). emergence of modern retailing, 1 750-1 950 (London, 1999), PP. 1-15. A very important point has been to overcome a diffused tendency to consider retailing and marketing strategies as created with the economic boom after the Second World War. See R. Church, 'Dynamic marketing theory and business system in Britain in the nineteenth century', in F. Amatori, A. Colli and N. Crepas, eds., Deindustrialization and reindustrialization in 20thcentury Europe (Milan, 1999), PP. 87-9. These positive views contrast with a notion of marketing concept conceived as an attempt to dominate both the market and consumers. Recently Regina Blaszczyc has observed how in the eighteenth century "through the constant activity of selecting, receiving, purchasing, and using artefacts, consumers forcefully challenged producers' capabilities and expectations". R.L. Blaszczyc, Imagining consumers: design and innovation from Wedgwood to Corning (Baltimore, 2000), p. 15. 6 M. Finn, 'Men's things: masculine possession in the consumer revolution', Social History, XXV - 2 (2000), PP. 133-55. Fairs and markets and itinerant retailing are not considered here. On these subjects see: D. Alexander, Retailing in England during the industrial revolution (London, 1970), ch. 2 and 3 and L. Fontaine, History ofpeddlers in Europe (Durham, 1996). 155
Illustration 4.1 — Measuring instructions by Ratley, St. Martin's Lane, 1810 I? i4 -- l(fl ' I M .k - - .2L1/L (-4c,:,-. 14, C4,i,n6 .fflh/ Yan' S'MartiusLiifle. I- , 10,/ /1 I/I a Il'V7. i,., ,,,arki/. ,rna' (/lI h,/,,., ,ia' al sv6 Fyurv. 'riidf/i _.,I'#c /,.q,,. ,?,,dyi'Il 7/ 1.. te',// a., .4 6- I - /.7 /(IIF,' J (' /FY...7.LA.,. (, 2. &w,,a' .*e Jrnie. / D. , i'.' . I". 3.ThiJwyiV,f//i '• '• I ? ii. Ro,,,,11 he', Ne'/ a.'ir/ /Fifr/. F4. b. &',m,/ i'e .1 11 , •i ?. 2ry/aiiy - fl','te,,, fb h'e/. 2 - £ P Source: Guildhall Library, Prints Department, Trade Cards Collection: 'Ratley' 1 I
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Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
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"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
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This research would have not been c
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Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
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Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
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List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
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List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
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List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
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6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
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These are the theoretical reasons t
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concentrate on recent changes in th
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The use of the micro-analytic appro
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production are examined. The eighte
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industrial period. If we consider t
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inventories for the period 1788 to
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In the London Company the dissociat
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typology of products and producers,
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not yet completely mechanised) proc
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Part I of this thesis highlights th
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1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
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E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
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a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
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were tanning, currying and oil dres
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important centre for tanning and cu
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1/3 of the total export of French l
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Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
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England. These numbers, however, ha
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1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
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dark colour of the leather produced
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60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
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'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
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National leather market, abolishing
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leather. After the hide had been tr
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the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
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very low. In London a particular pr
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masters to employ journeymen who ha
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trade. It was also the formal recog
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inside the family business.' 17 Wom
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influence of new forces of change.'
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The purpose of part II of my thesis
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Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
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theme of standardisation and its re
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Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
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In the case of boots and shoes the
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limited, not in number but in value
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places like Petticoat Lane that, as
Page 121 and 122: with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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Page 127 and 128: Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
Page 129 and 130: -9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
Page 131 and 132: 120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
Page 133 and 134: As we will see in detail in the fol
Page 135 and 136: What can appear to us particularly
Page 137 and 138: C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
Page 139 and 140: According to Jean Morin, women's st
Page 141 and 142: Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
Page 143 and 144: Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
Page 145 and 146: will be going home on horseback".'
Page 147 and 148: Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
Page 149 and 150: Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
Page 151 and 152: Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
Page 153 and 154: Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
Page 155 and 156: silver and gold acquired from buckl
Page 157 and 158: Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
Page 159 and 160: One of the missing points in the di
Page 161 and 162: However French fashion became domin
Page 163 and 164: II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
Page 165 and 166: Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
Page 167 and 168: Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
Page 169 and 170: to be imposed "as being greatly con
Page 171: Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
Page 175 and 176: production.'° Symptomatic are the
Page 177 and 178: Moreover the expanding transoceanic
Page 179 and 180: Forty years later (circa 1760s and
Page 181 and 182: Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
Page 183 and 184: illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
Page 185 and 186: These new retailing systems were as
Page 187 and 188: Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
Page 189 and 190: 4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
Page 191 and 192: Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
Page 193 and 194: Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
Page 195 and 196: Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
Page 197 and 198: Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
Page 199 and 200: Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
Page 201 and 202: Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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Page 205 and 206: Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
Page 207 and 208: V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
Page 209 and 210: Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
Page 211 and 212: Sir, We have this day received a le
Page 213 and 214: 300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
Page 215 and 216: A series of letters had to be excha
Page 217 and 218: Corrections to the Account books as
Page 219 and 220: Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
Page 221 and 222: century and follow a well-establish
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evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
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show how the sector was neither sta
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a business carried out on a large s
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Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
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century, cordwainers represented in
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In the course of the century there
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Masters had to control journeymen i
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5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
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The most important information prov
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= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
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Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
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one shop. For the high-class shop i
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E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
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expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
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shoemakers who produced the entire
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Newgate Street in London for the "s
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estricted to only nine London shoem
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homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
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otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
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improved by the Leicestershire shoe
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important changes in productive pro
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Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
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Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
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Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
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The increase in shoe importation in
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St. James's in the London West End,
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As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
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In such a situation a long series o
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the more traditional productive env
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The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
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V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
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IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
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journeymen shoemakers also had to f
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the manufacture of English sole lea
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This analysis shows a new perspecti
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Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
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Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
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The real or apparent difference bet
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Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
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These changes rendered more difficu
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6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
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6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
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Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
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evolution' has presented new questi
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The separation of production and re
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French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
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eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
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espoke production was a widespread
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6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
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90 per cent of the men employed in
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0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
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compared to other European states a
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underlined: many Parisian manufactu
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1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
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integrating economic rationality, s
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extensive literature on guilds in F
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Bibliography
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. DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
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1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
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Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
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Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
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Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
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micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
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cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
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• Exposition publique des produit
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• Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
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cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
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Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
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• M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
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politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
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Deindustrialization and reindustria
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• A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
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• D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
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• V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
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• L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
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• E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
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• A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
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• C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
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(Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
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• A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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