The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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micro 52.474. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1847-8, no. 609, vol. 58, p. 383, micro 52.474. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1852-53, no. 15, vol. 99, p. 437, micro 57.726. • Command Papers - Accounts and papers, 1852-53, no. 609, vol. 99, p. 453, micro 57.726. Acts, Arrests and Sentences •Arrest du Conseil d'Estat du Roy (29 July 1738 - BN - 8-Z Le Senne - 4195 (7)). • Arrest de la Cour de Parlement contre Fran cois Maillot, maistre cordonnier a Paris & Jean Lambertot, compagnon cordonnier & chambrelant (BN - 8-Z Le Senne - 4195 (3)). • Arrest de la Cour de Parlement... des 16 Juillet & 26 novembre 1734, & 18 Février 1735 (Paris: 6 Juin 1736 - BN - 8-Z Le Senne - 4195 (8)). • Arrêt de Parlement qui condanne Louis Granger... (France: Parlement de Paris, 22 September 1778 - BN - F-23675 (882)). • Sentence de Police contre le nommé Bienaise, cordonnier, pour refus de souffrir la visite des Contro"lleurs des cuirs de Paris (Paris: 6 Juin 1727 - BN - F 23715 (38)). • Sentence rendue par Monsieur le Liutenant Genetal de Police, qui fixe le prix des ouvrages des compagnons cordonniers (Paris: 2 June 1720 - BN - 8-Z Le Senne - 4195 (5)). • Edit... portant creation de neuf cents mule livres de rentes héréditaires sur les deniers provenans du droit établi sur les cuirs (Paris: 1761). • Conseil d'Etat de France, Arrest... du 14 novembre 1784, et lettres patentes sur celui qui... étalisserent les droits qui seront payés pendant dix-huit années sur les cuirs et peaux, amené a la nouvelle Halle aux Cuirs (Paris: 1784). • Lettres patenres... sur le décret de 1 'Assemblée Nationale du 22 mars 1790, concernant la suppression de l'exercice du droit de marque des cuirs (Paris: 1790). • Rapport et project de décret ayant pour object d'assujettir les cuirs de boeuf et de vache sales en veil, a un droit d'entrée (Paris: 1813). • Rapport et project de décret relatzfs a l'interpretation du décret du 9 novembre 1810, qui a fixé le droit d'entrée sur les cuirs venant de l'étranger (Paris: 1811). • Rapport et projects de décret relatzfs aux droits d'entrée sur les cuirs venant de Smyrne, de lillyrie et des royaumes de Naples et d'Italie (Paris: 1811). •Arrest du 14 Juiller 1784... (Paris, 1785). 331
• Ordonnances, reglement et tableau des malt res et marchands, fabricands, cordonniers et • Sentence de Monsieur le Lieutenent General de Police, qui fait defences a toutes les femmes en puissance de man d'aller a la Halle aux Cuirs, pour y lottir, & faire des declarations (5 April 1724 - BN - 8-Z Le Senne -4287 (11)). • Arrest de la Cour de Parlement, qui fixe les visites entre la Communautédes Malt res Corroyeurs, & la Communauté des MaiItres Cordonniers (16 June 1733 - BN - 8-Z Le Senne -4287 (13)). • Arréte de la très utile Communauté des Maitres Sevatiers de la bonne ville de Paris (1 June 1788-BN-8 -FM. 3350). Printed Primary Sources •Académie de commerce (Paris: L.G. Michand, 1815). • R. Ackermann, The Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufactures, Fashion and Politics. • A general description of all trades, digested in alphabetical order... (London: T. Wailer, 1747). • Almanach des maltres et marchands, fabricans, cordonniers et bottiers de la ville de Paris (Paris: 1826). • Almanach des marchands, négocians et commerçans de la France et du reste de l'europe (Paris: 1770 - BN V 25864). • Almanach des modes. Premiere anneée (Paris: Rosa, 1814). • Almanach des modes et annuaire des modes et des moeurs parisiennes (Paris: 1815). • A new and diverting dialogue, both serious and comical, that passed the other day between a noted shoe-maker & his wife, living in this neighbourhood (London: J. Evans, 1790). • A new view of London: or, an ample account of that City, in eight Sections (London: John Nicholson, 1708). • Annuaire de la boucherie, de la tannerie, et de toutes les industries qui emploient le cuir et le peau (Paris: 1868). • Annuaire general du commerce et de 1 'industrie, de la magistrature et de l'administration (Paris: Didot: 1840). • Appeal from the buckle trade of London and Westminster to the royal conductors offashion (London: W. Justins, 1792). • A.M. Arnould, De la balance du commerce et des relations commerciales extérieures de la France... (Paris: 1791). • A trip through London: containing observations on men and things... (London: J. Roberts, 1728). • T. Bayard, Mémoire des tanneurs, relativement au droit de marque sur les 332
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Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
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"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
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This research would have not been c
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Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
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Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
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List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
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List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
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List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
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6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
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These are the theoretical reasons t
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concentrate on recent changes in th
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The use of the micro-analytic appro
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production are examined. The eighte
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industrial period. If we consider t
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inventories for the period 1788 to
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In the London Company the dissociat
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typology of products and producers,
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not yet completely mechanised) proc
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Part I of this thesis highlights th
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1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
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E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
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a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
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were tanning, currying and oil dres
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important centre for tanning and cu
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1/3 of the total export of French l
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Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
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England. These numbers, however, ha
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1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
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dark colour of the leather produced
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60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
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'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
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National leather market, abolishing
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leather. After the hide had been tr
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the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
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very low. In London a particular pr
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masters to employ journeymen who ha
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trade. It was also the formal recog
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inside the family business.' 17 Wom
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influence of new forces of change.'
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The purpose of part II of my thesis
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Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
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theme of standardisation and its re
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Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
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In the case of boots and shoes the
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limited, not in number but in value
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places like Petticoat Lane that, as
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with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
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should not think that ready-made sh
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Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
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-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
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120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
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As we will see in detail in the fol
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What can appear to us particularly
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C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
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According to Jean Morin, women's st
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Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
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Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
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will be going home on horseback".'
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Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
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Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
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Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
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Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
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silver and gold acquired from buckl
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Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
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One of the missing points in the di
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However French fashion became domin
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II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
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Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
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Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
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to be imposed "as being greatly con
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Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
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Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
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production.'° Symptomatic are the
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Moreover the expanding transoceanic
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Forty years later (circa 1760s and
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Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
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illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
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These new retailing systems were as
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Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
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4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
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Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
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Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
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Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
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Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
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Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
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Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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unning a small business, he had not
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Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
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V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
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Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
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Sir, We have this day received a le
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300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
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A series of letters had to be excha
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Corrections to the Account books as
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Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
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century and follow a well-establish
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evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
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show how the sector was neither sta
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a business carried out on a large s
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Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
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century, cordwainers represented in
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In the course of the century there
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Masters had to control journeymen i
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5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
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The most important information prov
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= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
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Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
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one shop. For the high-class shop i
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E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
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expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
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shoemakers who produced the entire
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Newgate Street in London for the "s
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estricted to only nine London shoem
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homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
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otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
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improved by the Leicestershire shoe
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important changes in productive pro
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Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
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Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
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Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
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The increase in shoe importation in
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St. James's in the London West End,
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As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
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In such a situation a long series o
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the more traditional productive env
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The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
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V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
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IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
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journeymen shoemakers also had to f
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the manufacture of English sole lea
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This analysis shows a new perspecti
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Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
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Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
Page 298 and 299: The real or apparent difference bet
Page 300 and 301: Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
Page 302 and 303: These changes rendered more difficu
Page 304 and 305: 6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
Page 306 and 307: 6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
Page 308 and 309: Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
Page 310 and 311: evolution' has presented new questi
Page 312 and 313: The separation of production and re
Page 314 and 315: French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
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Page 320 and 321: 6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
Page 322 and 323: 90 per cent of the men employed in
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Page 326 and 327: compared to other European states a
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Page 330 and 331: 1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
Page 332 and 333: integrating economic rationality, s
Page 334 and 335: extensive literature on guilds in F
Page 336 and 337: Bibliography
Page 338 and 339: . DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
Page 340 and 341: 1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
Page 342 and 343: Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
Page 344 and 345: Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
Page 346 and 347: Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
Page 350 and 351: cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
Page 352 and 353: • Exposition publique des produit
Page 354 and 355: • Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
Page 356 and 357: cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
Page 358 and 359: Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
Page 360 and 361: • M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
Page 362 and 363: politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
Page 364 and 365: Deindustrialization and reindustria
Page 366 and 367: Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
Page 368 and 369: • A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
Page 370 and 371: • D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
Page 372 and 373: • V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
Page 374 and 375: • L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
Page 376 and 377: • E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
Page 378 and 379: commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
Page 380 and 381: • A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
Page 382 and 383: elations from the beginning of the
Page 384 and 385: • C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
Page 386 and 387: pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
Page 388 and 389: (Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
Page 390 and 391: • A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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