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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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were tann<strong>in</strong>g, curry<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> oil dress<strong>in</strong>g all English <strong>and</strong> Welsh lea<strong>the</strong>r.' 7 Slightly<br />

more than fifty per cent of <strong>the</strong>m were tanners, 47 per cent were curriers <strong>and</strong> 2.5 per<br />

cent were oil dressers. This contrasts with <strong>the</strong> hundreds of thous<strong>and</strong>s of<br />

shoemakers who had small scale bus<strong>in</strong>esses scattered around Brita<strong>in</strong>.<br />

Table 1.1 - Number of licensed lea<strong>the</strong>r producers <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Wales, 1808-1818<br />

Year Tanners Curriers Oil dressers Total<br />

1808 1,725 1,580 189 3,494<br />

1809 1,741 1,617 176 3,534<br />

1810 1,737 1,639 188 3,564<br />

1811 1,756 1,657 168 3,581<br />

1812 1,766 1,665 161 3,592<br />

1813 1,754 1,644 160 3,558<br />

1814 1,699 1,647 150 3,496<br />

1815 1,671 1,688 154 3,513<br />

1816 1,619 1,591 139 3,349<br />

1817 1,598 1,664 131 3,393<br />

1818 1,577 1,614 120 3,311<br />

Source: British Parliamentary Papers, 1818 (110) - XIV (micro 19.75).<br />

This is confirmed from <strong>the</strong> figures provided by <strong>the</strong> Sun fire office registers. If we<br />

compared <strong>the</strong> capital <strong>in</strong>sured by tanners <strong>and</strong> dressers <strong>and</strong> by shoemakers <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

1770s, we can underst<strong>and</strong> also <strong>the</strong> different scale of <strong>the</strong> activity (table 1.2). While<br />

most shoemakers had small bus<strong>in</strong>esses, tanners <strong>and</strong> dressers had to <strong>in</strong>vest<br />

considerable capital.<br />

Table 1.2 - Comparative analysis of <strong>the</strong> capital <strong>in</strong>sured by tanners, dressers<br />

<strong>and</strong> shoemakers <strong>in</strong> 1770s<br />

Capital <strong>in</strong>sured ()<br />

100 or under<br />

101-500<br />

501-1000<br />

1001-2999<br />

3000 or over<br />

Total<br />

Tanners <strong>and</strong> dressers<br />

% Cumulative (%)<br />

17.9 17.9<br />

42.8 60.7<br />

20.5 81.2<br />

14.3 95.5<br />

4.5 100.0<br />

100.0<br />

<strong>Shoe</strong>makers<br />

% Cumulative (%)<br />

52.9 52.9<br />

40.9 93.8<br />

5.8 99.6<br />

0.4 100.0<br />

0.0 100.0<br />

100.0<br />

Source: D. Barnett, <strong>London</strong>, hub of <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustrial revolution. A revisionary history, 1775-1825<br />

(<strong>London</strong>, 1998), pp. 67 <strong>and</strong> 163.<br />

'' Differently from shoemak<strong>in</strong>g, lea<strong>the</strong>r commerce was a highly capitalised activity. British<br />

Parliamentary Papers, Commons Journal(1816), p. 42.<br />

28

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