- Page 1 and 2: Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
- Page 3 and 4: "A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
- Page 5 and 6: This research would have not been c
- Page 7 and 8: Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
- Page 9 and 10: Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
- Page 11 and 12: List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
- Page 13 and 14: List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
- Page 15 and 16: List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
- Page 17: 6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
- Page 21 and 22: concentrate on recent changes in th
- Page 23 and 24: The use of the micro-analytic appro
- Page 25 and 26: production are examined. The eighte
- Page 27 and 28: industrial period. If we consider t
- Page 29 and 30: inventories for the period 1788 to
- Page 31 and 32: In the London Company the dissociat
- Page 33 and 34: typology of products and producers,
- Page 35 and 36: not yet completely mechanised) proc
- Page 37 and 38: Part I of this thesis highlights th
- Page 39 and 40: 1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
- Page 41 and 42: E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
- Page 43 and 44: a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
- Page 45 and 46: were tanning, currying and oil dres
- Page 47 and 48: important centre for tanning and cu
- Page 49 and 50: 1/3 of the total export of French l
- Page 51 and 52: Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
- Page 53 and 54: England. These numbers, however, ha
- Page 55 and 56: 1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
- Page 57 and 58: dark colour of the leather produced
- Page 59 and 60: 60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
- Page 61 and 62: '1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
- Page 63 and 64: National leather market, abolishing
- Page 65 and 66: leather. After the hide had been tr
- Page 67 and 68: the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
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very low. In London a particular pr
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masters to employ journeymen who ha
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trade. It was also the formal recog
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inside the family business.' 17 Wom
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influence of new forces of change.'
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The purpose of part II of my thesis
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Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
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theme of standardisation and its re
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Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
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In the case of boots and shoes the
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limited, not in number but in value
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places like Petticoat Lane that, as
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with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
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should not think that ready-made sh
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Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
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-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
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120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
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As we will see in detail in the fol
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What can appear to us particularly
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C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
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According to Jean Morin, women's st
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Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
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Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
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will be going home on horseback".'
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Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
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Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
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Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
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Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
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silver and gold acquired from buckl
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Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
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One of the missing points in the di
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However French fashion became domin
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II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
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Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
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Illustration 3.15 - 'Crossing-Sweep
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to be imposed "as being greatly con
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Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
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Illustration 4.1 — Measuring inst
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production.'° Symptomatic are the
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Moreover the expanding transoceanic
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Forty years later (circa 1760s and
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Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
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illustration 4.7 - Trade card of Ja
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These new retailing systems were as
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Illustration 4.10— Trade card of
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4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
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Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
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Furze at 65 Fleet Street occupied t
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Illustration 4.14 - Trade card of S
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Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
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Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
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Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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unning a small business, he had not
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Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
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V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
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Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
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Sir, We have this day received a le
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300 250 200 ISO I00 50 0 Figure 4.3
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A series of letters had to be excha
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Corrections to the Account books as
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Illustration 4.20 - Snip's warehous
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century and follow a well-establish
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evolutionary and pre-mechanised mea
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show how the sector was neither sta
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a business carried out on a large s
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Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
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century, cordwainers represented in
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In the course of the century there
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Masters had to control journeymen i
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5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
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The most important information prov
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= 14 12 10 ': : 4 2 100 90 80 6O 1:
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Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
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one shop. For the high-class shop i
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E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
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expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
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shoemakers who produced the entire
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Newgate Street in London for the "s
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estricted to only nine London shoem
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homes, to make by hands." 96 Follow
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otherwise declining economy.' 0' As
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improved by the Leicestershire shoe
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important changes in productive pro
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Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
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Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
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Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
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The increase in shoe importation in
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St. James's in the London West End,
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As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
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In such a situation a long series o
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the more traditional productive env
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The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
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V nj '.4 rFj nj . nj 0 .- - V — '
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IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
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journeymen shoemakers also had to f
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the manufacture of English sole lea
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This analysis shows a new perspecti
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Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
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Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
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The real or apparent difference bet
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Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
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These changes rendered more difficu
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6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
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6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
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Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
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evolution' has presented new questi
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The separation of production and re
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French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
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eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
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espoke production was a widespread
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6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
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90 per cent of the men employed in
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0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
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compared to other European states a
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underlined: many Parisian manufactu
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1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
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integrating economic rationality, s
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extensive literature on guilds in F
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Bibliography
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. DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
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1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
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Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
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Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
- Page 346 and 347:
Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
- Page 348 and 349:
micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
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cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
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• Exposition publique des produit
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• Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
- Page 356 and 357:
cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
- Page 358 and 359:
Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
- Page 360 and 361:
• M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
- Page 362 and 363:
politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
- Page 364 and 365:
Deindustrialization and reindustria
- Page 366 and 367:
Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
- Page 368 and 369:
• A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
- Page 370 and 371:
• D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
- Page 372 and 373:
• V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
- Page 374 and 375:
• L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
- Page 376 and 377:
• E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
- Page 378 and 379:
commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
- Page 380 and 381:
• A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
- Page 382 and 383:
elations from the beginning of the
- Page 384 and 385:
• C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
- Page 386 and 387:
pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
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(Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
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• A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h