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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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<strong>The</strong> City was unable to conta<strong>in</strong> both production <strong>and</strong> distribution with<strong>in</strong> its walls.<br />

<strong>The</strong> fad<strong>in</strong>g livery companies' authority presented <strong>the</strong> opportunity to de-<br />

centralise production <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> suburbs. By <strong>the</strong> eighteenth century to set up a shop<br />

outside <strong>the</strong> narrows medieval streets of <strong>the</strong> City, for <strong>in</strong>stance <strong>in</strong> Aidgate,<br />

Lombard Street or Covent Garden - <strong>the</strong> so called West End of town - where<br />

broader streets allowed customers to reach shops with <strong>the</strong>ir carriages, meant to<br />

have several competitive advantages. Not less important was <strong>the</strong> fact that a shop<br />

(<strong>and</strong> related workshop) <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> 'liberties' dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> eighteenth century could<br />

easily evade <strong>the</strong> complex <strong>and</strong> sometimes contradictory rules imposed by <strong>the</strong><br />

Cordwa<strong>in</strong>ers' Company.<br />

<strong>The</strong> retail<strong>in</strong>g differentiation with<strong>in</strong> <strong>London</strong> had not only a horizontal<br />

dimension East-West. Even a North-South dimension could be identified. <strong>The</strong>re<br />

were two sets of streets, runn<strong>in</strong>g nearly parallel, almost from <strong>the</strong> eastern<br />

extremity of <strong>the</strong> town to <strong>the</strong> western, form<strong>in</strong>g a l<strong>in</strong>e of shops. <strong>The</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn, near<br />

<strong>the</strong> river, extended from Mile End to Parliament, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g Whitechapel,<br />

Leadenhall Street, Cornhill, Cheapside, St. Paul's, Ludgate Street, Fleet Street,<br />

<strong>the</strong> Str<strong>and</strong> <strong>and</strong> Char<strong>in</strong>g Cross. <strong>The</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> North, started from Shoreditch to<br />

Oxford Street, through Threadneedle Street, Cheapside, Newgate Street,<br />

Snowhill, Holborn <strong>and</strong> Broad Street. 4° <strong>The</strong> sou<strong>the</strong>rn l<strong>in</strong>e, considered to be <strong>the</strong><br />

most important, f<strong>in</strong>ished with <strong>the</strong> newly built Mayfair, centre of noble settl<strong>in</strong>g<br />

where <strong>the</strong> best shops <strong>in</strong> <strong>London</strong> were located.4'<br />

Such complexity was present also <strong>in</strong> shoe retail<strong>in</strong>g. <strong>The</strong> <strong>London</strong> market was<br />

not only differentiated, but also <strong>the</strong> most extended <strong>in</strong> Brita<strong>in</strong>. If we compare <strong>the</strong><br />

number of shoe shops <strong>in</strong> <strong>London</strong> with o<strong>the</strong>r English towns, we can underst<strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> dimension of <strong>the</strong> metropolitan market. With nearly 900 outlets <strong>in</strong> 1822 <strong>and</strong><br />

with more than 2,000 <strong>in</strong> 1834, it was more than eight times bigger than <strong>the</strong><br />

second shoe market <strong>in</strong> Brita<strong>in</strong> (table 4.1).42<br />

40<br />

A. Vickery, <strong>The</strong> gentleman's daughter: women's lives <strong>in</strong> Georgian Engl<strong>and</strong> (New York -<br />

<strong>London</strong>, 1998), pp. 250-1.<br />

W. Sombart, Luxuiy <strong>and</strong> capitalism (Ann Arbor, 1967), p. 131.<br />

42 We are here <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g boot <strong>and</strong> shoemakers <strong>in</strong> directories, vary<strong>in</strong>g from chamber masters to<br />

large shoe manufacturers <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r k<strong>in</strong>ds of outlets.<br />

179

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