The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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Illustration 4-19 - Bill of Joseph Eddis, shoemaker in Cannon Street, 1764 ,(/ 7" Yk / /L,,,,/,, .(plldtli i ..'ii..#.i . .... . I,.,..... /#iI.. .,_), /4; _//. i,.... ' f' /, ,'.. //i..; V.,,;., . .. J, 7 -'S ' 'iiiy'ifi. '.4ak.'f' 4.. 0 •,, , • C4V . . •(. . ,;.. 2 4. (9,,,. . . . . Z / , ,r2. .. . ,,• o' • . .7 . • / ,; a,.i . . . 2 • • .'' ; 9 ''• . . . . .2 s. •.... . '' ''-' "' ( . • . 2 •. l/1 . I . 2 . (i'...i• .L • j. • . ,.r . . ,2L4. . ' - ii .. . i 0 4 • 4: ' . • • • . . ;. £ 2 _*.J_d•4? .ir:,x: 4'. . . . 1 • • • . . . • ji 2" • . • ,.• .12 . . . . • . _. . , •. ; *' . . . . '.' !Z - . . . J'. •: _ y f . /,:/) S ) jJ-* - - .' •0_ 4•- '7-.. - ó'4 Source: Guildhall Library, Prints Department, Trade Cards Collection: 'Eddis' 199
Corrections to the Account books as the one reported by John Stunt were fairly common. Letters were arriving late, or could be lost, especially if customers were not living in London. In this case the shopkeeper had to be very careful in getting paid. 4.5 Consumption and retailing The polarisation of shops into different social levels has not to be exaggerated. The bespoke shops were touched by the claim that they sold country stuff. The refinement we can see from the end of the eighteenth century is a reaction designed to provide a convincing setting where the real and apparent quality of products was confirmed by the quality of the display with interiors decorated and furnished for high-class customers. 81 By the end of the eighteenth century the proportion of high quality shops was rapidly declining. The majority of shoe shops were targeting a wide variety of individuals. 82 We are unable to address this issue with particular precision due to a lack of records for these firms. What we are unable to know is whether there was any policy based on price, marketing high cost products for the high class customers and even loss making products for the 'stock out of fashion' destined to the working class. On the other hand the large number of advertisements and trade cards for these shops seems to suggest the presence of different types and qualities of shoes sold in the same shop. There was the bespoke, next to the ready-to-wear, but also different prices, related to levels of quality. Ready made in fact did not coincide with lower quality and lower prices. We have to interpret the expression 'fast selling' in a positive way. One of the advantages of ready-made products was a vast choice for the customer among the finished shoes he could try before buying. There was no waiting for the order to be executed and the client could compare with other shoes on a wide range of prices. This provides a notion of mass ' C. Walsh, 'Shop design and the display of goods in eighteenth-century London', Journal of Design History, Vifi - 3 (1995), p. 169. 82 M.J. Winstanley, The shopkeeper's world, 1830-1914, cit., p. 10. 200
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Giorgio Riello PhD Thesis in Histor
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"A GENTLE craft, I sit so snug, Wit
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This research would have not been c
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Table of Contents Abstract page Ii
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Chapter 5 - Production of Boots and
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List of Tables 1.1 - Number of lice
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List of Figures 1.1 - Hides and ski
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List of Illustrations 3.1 - Trade c
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6.1 - Boot and shoe shops in London
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These are the theoretical reasons t
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concentrate on recent changes in th
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The use of the micro-analytic appro
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production are examined. The eighte
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industrial period. If we consider t
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inventories for the period 1788 to
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In the London Company the dissociat
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typology of products and producers,
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not yet completely mechanised) proc
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Part I of this thesis highlights th
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1.1 Introduction Chapter 1 The Raw
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E 60 50 40 30 20 10 Figure 1.1 - Hi
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a - .- 1-i .- 0 'I 26
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were tanning, currying and oil dres
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important centre for tanning and cu
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1/3 of the total export of French l
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Table 1.6 - Different types of leat
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England. These numbers, however, ha
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1812 (figures 1.1 and 1.3). If we c
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dark colour of the leather produced
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60000.000 50.000.000 40.000.000 30.
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'1 250.000 200,000 150,000 100,000
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National leather market, abolishing
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leather. After the hide had been tr
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the revolutionary government mainta
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trade. 92 The quarrel (discussed in
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gave substantial financial aid to t
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Chapter 2 The Role of Guilds "une c
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through technological and organisat
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saddlemakers and others who were pa
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of shoes adding up to 1/3 of new le
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models are related only to a rural
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stratification of the workshop over
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900 800 700 60(1 40(1 300 200 10: F
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in all the periods considered. 52 S
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same chain of production, such as b
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eality life in the master's househo
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their respective trades.73 In cordw
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membership of the company and the e
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very low. In London a particular pr
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masters to employ journeymen who ha
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trade. It was also the formal recog
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inside the family business.' 17 Wom
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influence of new forces of change.'
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The purpose of part II of my thesis
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Chapter 3 Consumption and footwear
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theme of standardisation and its re
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Table 3.1 - Gregory King's estimate
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In the case of boots and shoes the
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limited, not in number but in value
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places like Petticoat Lane that, as
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with a total amount of £9,073 valu
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600,000 500,000 400,000 ' 300,000 2
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should not think that ready-made sh
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Illustration 3.1 - Trade card of G.
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-9. N I 1Ii _ [;:T:TT T-T 1 i 1: Iw
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120 100 80. 60 Figure 3.6 - Prices
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As we will see in detail in the fol
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What can appear to us particularly
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C 2.. 0 0 2.. 0 C rI C 0 8.. 0 0 0
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According to Jean Morin, women's st
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Illustration 3.4 - Portrait of Loui
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Illustration 3.5 - Early eighteenth
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will be going home on horseback".'
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Illustration 3.7 - Wellington Boot
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Dictionnaire of 1859 reported that
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Illustration 3.8 - Eighteenth and e
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Illustration 3.9 — Portrait of La
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silver and gold acquired from buckl
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Illustration 3.10 - Pair of women's
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One of the missing points in the di
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However French fashion became domin
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II S -.--- fli Illustration 3.13 -
Page 165 and 166: Illustration 3.14 - Lady's silk bro
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Page 171 and 172: Chapter 4 Retailing Boots and Shoes
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Page 175 and 176: production.'° Symptomatic are the
Page 177 and 178: Moreover the expanding transoceanic
Page 179 and 180: Forty years later (circa 1760s and
Page 181 and 182: Illustration 4.5 - Trade card of C.
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Page 189 and 190: 4.3 The culture of display 4.3.1 Sh
Page 191 and 192: Sophie Von La Roche describing Lond
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Page 197 and 198: Table 4.1 - Shoe shops in England i
Page 199 and 200: Illustration 4.15 - Trade cards of
Page 201 and 202: Table 4.2 - Specialisation in boot
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Page 205 and 206: Illustration 4.17 - Pattison's shoe
Page 207 and 208: V, - _I;;a Illustration 4.18 - Engl
Page 209 and 210: Table 4.5 - Prices at Wimpory, boot
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Page 215: A series of letters had to be excha
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Page 229 and 230: Table 5.2 - Insurance by London sho
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Page 235 and 236: Masters had to control journeymen i
Page 237 and 238: 5.3.1 The financing ofproduction Su
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Page 243 and 244: Figure 5.8 - Classic space juxtapos
Page 245 and 246: one shop. For the high-class shop i
Page 247 and 248: E E 100 98 96 94 92 90 88 Figure 5.
Page 249 and 250: expanding market. 66 In 1783 an adv
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Page 253 and 254: Newgate Street in London for the "s
Page 255 and 256: estricted to only nine London shoem
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Page 265 and 266: Part III - Towards Industrialisatio
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Chapter 6 Competition, 1815-1850 "L
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Cordonniers du Règne de Louis XVL"
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The increase in shoe importation in
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St. James's in the London West End,
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As from figures 6.3 and 6.4 the Fre
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In such a situation a long series o
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the more traditional productive env
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The strikes of 1825 and 1826 affect
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IL V V — .- E V 0 C 0 0 C .— .-
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journeymen shoemakers also had to f
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the manufacture of English sole lea
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This analysis shows a new perspecti
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Illustration 6.1 - Pair of early ni
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Illustration 6.2 - Shoe produced by
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The real or apparent difference bet
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Illustration 6.5 - Straight and lef
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These changes rendered more difficu
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6.6.3 The competition in bootmaking
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6.7 Conclusion The focus of my anal
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Chapter 7 Divergence: London and Pa
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evolution' has presented new questi
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The separation of production and re
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French shoe trades. At the 1851 Gre
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eprésenter plusieurs centaines de
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espoke production was a widespread
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6,000 5,000 4,000 3,000 2,000 1,000
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90 per cent of the men employed in
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0 70.000 60.000 50.000 - 40.000 - 3
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compared to other European states a
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underlined: many Parisian manufactu
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1. Methodology Conclusion Stepping
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integrating economic rationality, s
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extensive literature on guilds in F
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Bibliography
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. DQ'° 580: dossier 3004. Archive
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1752), vi (1752-1771). • MS 7354:
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Surrey. • B 3/3826: 26 November 1
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Court of Parliament; shewing (f the
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Laws and Statutes • Laws and Stat
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micro 52.474. • Command Papers -
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cuirs etpeaux, etc. (Paris: 1816).
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• Exposition publique des produit
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• Nouvelle encyclopédie des arts
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cure of corns, bunnions, callositie
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Secondary Sources • A. Adburgham,
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• M. Berg, 'Protoindustializzazio
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politics in England, 1550-1800 (Lon
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Deindustrialization and reindustria
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Ashgate, 1997). • G. Crossick and
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• A. Dyer, 'Midlands', in P. Clar
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• D. Garrioch, 'House names, shop
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• V.A. Hartley, 'The St. Giles' s
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• L. Hunt and G. Sheridan, 'Corpo
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• E. Levasseur, Histoire des clas
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commercialisation of Eighteenth Cen
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• A. Menuge, 'Technology and trad
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• C.F. Sabel and J. Zeitlin, 'Sto
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pp. 438-42 • P.N. Stems, 'Stages
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(Venezia: Istituto Veneto di Scienz
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• A.H. Cole and G.B. Watts, The h
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The Boot and Shoe Trades in London and Paris in the Long Eighteenth Century

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